big66440

Since I wasn't able to find a good solid review of swapping the 4 hole "710" injectors to the "746" ones I thought I would do it. The 746 injectors are still the undisputed best injectors for the Renix models, my idle is smooth as glass and my truck is much more responsive. The 710 injectors are also a 4 hole, single piece design but if I'm not mistaken the resistance is a tiny bit different. I can't say enough good things about using the 746 injectors guys, they are worth every penny.

I used a Mallory coil for a very short time, I didn't notice a difference . From what I've read the factory ignition system is very decent.

They're fully boxed ( Stronger ) and they have a bend that if I'm not mistaken allows for bigger tires without rubbing, there may be more advantages that I'm not aware of but there was a thread started not too long ago by one of the members here that installed them in his MJ.

Darn right, I'm surprised with the popularity of the XJ/MJ there aren't any good reputable U.S companies making them :hmm:

Just an FYI, I wasn't able to find a replacement lower hose with the spring in it when I replaced my hoses about a year ago. I tried NAPA, Autozone, Oreilly's, and no one even listed a replacement with the spring, according to some info I found on the net, the new hose design doesn't require a spring, FWIW my replacement hose without the spring has been just fine. Is your radiator in good shape? maybe a quick trip to a radiator shop can verify if it's semi plugged?

You're so lucky!!! I've been looking for a diesel Comanche as well to build freely and keep the smog Nazzis away, congratulations :thumbsup:

Good to know you've made progress, I would very highly recommend spending a few hours doing cruisers Renix tips, they've improved my Comanches performance by leaps and bounds.

don't mean to side track the thread but the Blocks manufactured for/in Mexico could very well have better steel, if I'm not mistaken Ford actually did that with their some of their engines to withstand the high desert heat.

Since he's just going 3", can't he use the J-Link control arms? Yes he should be able to use them without any issues, there's tons of great options out there, I would have personally gone the WJ arm route though.

There should be a white sticker with your vacuum diagram on the cowl ( upper firewall area ) near your brake booster. I would highly recommend Hornbrods advice of getting a factory service manual, they can be found on ebay for a decent price and come in EXTREMELY handy.

Thank you....Wow these things are crazy expensive compared to other brands. Yes they are, I would try the WJ arms and adjust the caster ( if you actually need to) with shims first. they're fully boxed, have a dip in them to clear bigger tires and should be readily available cheaply at your local junk yard, good luck :cheers:

Welcome to the forum

You can modify the cup or you can also get creative with extra pieces of scrap metal ( bearing races ) or sockets too, if you have a propane torch heat up the area right around the ball joint as well to help it release.

If you're going with aftermarket arms I would recommend the JKS J-Axis control arms. I have them on my MJ and they are BEEFY, rebuildable, made here in the U.S and use the factory rubber bushings for comfort and serviceability. I'm not in business with them in any way, but I believe if youre going to replace suspension, steering or brake components stick with either OEM or companies with seriously good reputations, just my 2 pennies worth.

Welcome to the forum,congratulations you found yourself a very nice truck.

I'd start with the basics, make sure the line to your MAP sensor is plugged in correctly and not kinked or damaged as well as making sure your vacuum lines are in good condition and plugged where they should be. Check your intake/exhaust manifold bolts to make sure they aren't loose, make sure your sensor grounds at the dipstick stud as well as the ground strap towards the rear of the engine connected to the firewall are clean and tight ( Cruisers Renix tips). You should also make sure your throttle position sensor was adjusted properly, all these steps are very easy to do and shouldn't take long, good luck.

Don't mean to hijack but, how difficult was the shift indicator installation Hornbrod? did it require any special modifications? thanks. BTW you have a great looking truck. :thumbsup:

I'm using the Moroso oil pan https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-27862 ( I wrote that review :) ) and with a K&N oil filter my system holds exactly 8 1/2 quarts of oil. I've been thinking of adding an oil cooler as well, may be overkill but I drive the crap out of my truck.

Last oil change I poured in some NAPA Synthetic 10W-30 which is made by Valvoline.

There's ALOT of other things you wouldn't have to worry about( Nagging wife :rant: :rant: :rant: :mad: :mad:) :ack: .

:thumbsup: That's also the way I see it.

Glad you're OK OP,,, karmas a b*@$£ and he'll get his.

You'll be surprised, that's the ONLY reason I haven't put on a tail gate I have that's in good condition.

Is there anything you ( or anyone else) could have done recently to cause one of the pulleys to have been bent or been installed out of alignment? I have a similar problem and it turns out I had bent my power steering pump pulley when reassembling the front end of my engine. You can also pin point where the noise is coming from with a mechanics stethoscope, they're available at any of the big chain auto parts stores.

I believe it's called a distribution block on our trucks, if that's what you are talking about it's not available from the aftermarket. You're best bet would be to post a wanted ad in the classifieds or ebay, or you can pull one off of an XJ but you may have to modify it.