big66440

:thumbsup: might as well, I'm pretty sure its a direct swap from the 8 1/4

I see 8 3/4's often in my area, not too expensive and I really don"t mind if I don"t find the more sought after 489 carrier as long as It's not the type with the pressed on drums I figure it would be cool to be able to swap rear gears very quickly and the added strength to boot.

I would recommend pulling the master cylinder off the booster and bench bleeding it to eliminate it as a possibility nitroxsteve has a good point, I've had a similar issue on a brake job before and if you have air in the master cylinder you can bleed the system a million times and you will have a very very spongy pedal at best.

Cool, I was thinking if I had to go through the trouble with the shock mounts swapping the diff from an XJ diff to the MJ I would stick to my plan of installing the 8 3/4 I know it might be a little too much for what I have now but I have some serious plans for that truck down the road

I've been looking into replacing my differential for a while and have been really tempted to throw a mopar 8 3/4 on my MJ, I know there are other options out there (I've already searched) but I love the idea of the drop out center section,just out of curiosity I know if I get an 8.25 or any other diff off of an XJ I have to flip and relocate the spring perches but would I have to mess with the shock mounts as well? is there any one here that has done the 8 3/4 swap to there MJ? thanks.

If you replace your speedometer cable make sure you route it away from the EGR tube going from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold (4.0 engines not sure about the 2.5) to keep it from burning and having to buy another one.

I agree. BTW I would really recommend speed bleeders you can find them in the dorman section at Autozone theyre worth every penny :thumbsup:

My wife has 210xxx on a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2 and my oldest step son has 205xxx on an 04 accord 2.4.

HEY, we're not all crazy :wavey:

See if your local Autozone, O reilly or any other auto parts chain store has a coolant pressure tester you can rent, very easy to use and can pin point your coolant leak dead on just make sure your coolant is topped off completely in order to diagnose it properly or if your a DIY tool maniac like me you can just buy one. I would recommend the kit from Red Line which is the one I have http://redlinedetection.com/collections/smartfit

Wanna trade? my tachs reading too high :rotf: , jimoshel is right on about the speedo cable, my odometer wasn't working at all so I couldn't insure it because my smog checks showed the same mileage for years once I installed a new speedo cable the odometer started working. BTW did it just start doing that out of no where?

If it was the Bosch 69302 it will have a spacer and some other pieces to allow the fuel pump to fit snug, I had to trim mine just a little to make it work which was not a big deal at all since it is plastic, glad you got your comanche running :thumbsup: .

Gauge cluster light bulbs are also 194"s :thumbsup:

This to, even the most insignificant thing can make a difference and if it doesn't you can at least cross it off the "Renix owner to do list"

As far as your question for the IAT sensor it is no longer available anywhere, not even aftermarket manufacturers ( at least that none that I know of) its a junkyard only part,I clean mine with Mass air flow sensor cleaner every oil change, your running issue could very well be caused by the missing sensor.

thanks

Thank you, I've been researching the issue myself and found a thread on NAXJA with a similar issue and the guy posting the thread mentioned exactly what you said, he mentioned his 89 cluster had an adjustment screw I'm going to remove my tach and see if I can see it and if I don't I might take the tach to a shop and ask them to check the calibration on it.

Does not return to zero, sorry.

Welcome to forum :thumbsup:

What about the tach not returning to zero when the engine is off, do you guys with full clusters have this issue as well? is it normal?

Do you guys think cleaning it with electronics cleaner will help?

Just got a hold of the guy I bought it from he said it was a 4.0, what you guys are saying makes complete sense, do you guys know how to recalibrate it? If it's something I can do I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

I installed a full gauge cluster today in place of my idiot lights , my tachometer reads 1500 RPM at idle even when the engine is at operating temperature and when I shut the engine off the tach goes just below 1000 RPM and very slowly goes down to zero I have already done a search on google and here in the forum and cannot find info, can you guys give me some advice? Thank you 1989 comanche 4.0 AW4 2WD

EXACTLY!!! I found the smaller 225/75's were more expensive, I just got 4 brand new 235/75/15's wrangler radials on my Comanche 3 weeks ago for just a little over 75.00 ea locally and LOVE THEM ( I guess any set of new tires would have made a difference compared to my old worn ones) but just for the record there are no fitment issues whatsoever on my stock 2WD. :thumbsup:

I completely understand the resistance (from the resistor) will slow the fuel pump down, I really don't mean to sound like a smart @$$ but I stated that at the end of my last post, thanks for taking the time for posting the example tho i haven't gone into the ohms law equations in a loooooong time.