big66440

If you need the part number for the inner seal for the bolt in axles on DANA 35's (not sure if c clips are the same ) its SKF 13671, no major auto parts store can look it up for some reason.

My mistake, yes I meant the 95-96 XJ booster and master cylinder upgrade :D

I just did my spider gears and refilled it with 80w-90, been good so far no issues aside from my garage still smelling like gear oil :ack:

the 2wd drive shaft has some funky outer tube connected by rubber that has been known to cause vibrations. If this is the case you can only fix it by replacing the drive shaft. Keep this in mind if you remove the u-joints and the look good. My 2wd had this problem and it was fived with a bew shaft. WOW!!! I never knew that :eek: , thanks for posting that I might need a new drive shaft myself.

Hope you get your truck back, best of luck to you.

VERY WORTH DOING!!! I got the master cylinder and booster from Rockauto for about 100.00, it took me a few hours to install everything I was able to do it one Friday night after work and have never looked back this along with a set of steel braided brake lines will have you stopping on a dime, you can find tons of info on this on the internet. Don't second guess it you're upgrading the most important system of your truck.

If you have a "knocking" noise from your rear end while turning and hard straight line acceleration and have a Dana 35 pop the differential cover and inspect the spider gears even if you do not go off roading these are weak links on this differential and are not difficult at all to replace along with the axle shaft bearings ( the bearings closest to your rear wheels).

Guess Ill stick with 2 1/4" I might just see if I can redo the bends all the way to the muffler with some mandrel bent elbows the factory bends look like absolute $#!t :eek: , I think that alone with a Magnaflow muffler will be an improvement

Just for kicks, would upgrading the diameter of the exhaust to 2.5" make a difference? I know it will kill some of the velocity but will it slow it down to the point were I will feel a (negative) difference in the lower RPM range? BTW I'm planning on just dumping it before the axle,thanks.

I have a similar issue I would agree on u joints, and while you're there check if there's play in the yoke due to a worn extension shaft bushing :thumbsup:

" a short discussion about the dickhe@ds in Washington" and the coloring books alone are worth the asking price, Id jump on it ASAP :rotf: :yes: :laughin:

Man you're lucky, I live in CA so all the emissions crap has to stay :fs1:

:hmm: WTF just happened?

You can also take the cluster apart and pulling the tachometer off the cluster, there will be a white plastic phillips screw right were the circuitry is you can try to adjust it yourself but it is a time consuming trial and error PITA to deal with and it doesn't guarantee there isn't an issue with the motor or circuitry,I know it's frustrating I'm in the same situation myself let me know if you have any luck and I might try what you try to see if mine starts working.

I have an Airtex pump myself and it does what minuit's pump does, sometimes its noisy and other times its quiet but as far as fuel pressure readings go it's dead on.

See if there is a local gauge cluster rebuild/ repair shop in your area I'm more than sure they can calibrate it for you very cheaply.

Sucks. All nice old vehicles can only be ran about 4 maybe 5 months out of the year.... Ive read about that on forums, seems like people have to plan their driving according to the seasons, but I bet you guys have drivers that are better prepared for bad driving conditions than we do if we get a drizzle everyone has to count on a few morons not knowing how to "drive accordingly"

I used an ATP throttle cable and it's been perfect :thumbsup:

Kinda wish it snowed here in so cal,,, but then again I'd rather not know what its like to deal with rust on cars :rotf: :chillin:

Really really true, I make a living selling parts to rebuild engines and let me tell you guys we make a HUGE amount of profit selling parts for Japanese engines, and I'm not talking about high mileage ones that are just tired and need a rebuild, not saying we don't sell parts for American cars either but its really sad how it seems like people turn a blind eye to problematic import cars or problems they have and the second an American car has any issue people are quick to curse them for "not knowing how to build cars". Besides I really believe it matters how much you put into your car to keep it alive, you can't drive a family sedan like a race car and not expect to brake something.

I know the feeling to well, I hope you get that call and become "another one of the gang" :rock on:

I have made a statement like this before in another Mopar forum, I'm a hardcore Mopar fan but the Chrysler branch has been on a slippery downhill slope since the early 60's i think it all began when they got rid of the firepower Hemi's, aside from the rear wheel drive 300's I can't remember seeing a Chrysler in a very long time that could even come close to holding its own with Cadillac or Lincoln all they've done is rebadge Dodges and try to fool people into thinking they're a luxury brand somewhere along the line the Chrysler engineers/owners lost their edge in being the absolute best in the industry without trying to follow and imitate other car companies. I really hope they snap out of it and return to the way it used to be.

:thumbsup: might as well, I'm pretty sure its a direct swap from the 8 1/4 Is that true? I have a set of disks I took off my 8 1/4, that originally came from a D35. I was going to sell them, but if its a direct swap, I'll put them on the 8 3/4 under my Duster. Yes it is true you can use the rear brake set up from many jeeps with the 8.25 rear and since the 8.25 and D35 swap over easily it will install on the 8.75,the only issue I've heard of is when you want to install the drum brake combination for the parking brake on the 8.75 I've read it requires a lot of custom work but then again that can vary according to the persons ability.

My Renix 4.0 runs like $#!& and its noisy when its cold,,,, 210F is the perfect temp. . :MJ 1: .

Its "technically" a midsize truck, but I know what you mean by optical illusion