big66440

I think the Dana 35 in my Manche is going out, I can hear and feel a clunk on acceleration and right before I come to a stop only when the ambient temperature is really hot according to the info I've been able to find it points to my spider gears being worn. I don't use my Comanche for off road but I do occasionally haul a few hundred pounds maybe 3 times a year and like to haul a$$ and do burnouts, my question; is it worth to pay for a professional to rebuild it? I know it has a terrible reputation for off roading with big tires but I don't do any of that, any advice is welcome thanks.

If you have access to a compressor and an air hammer, put a flat chisel on that sucker and hammer away!!! i did all control arm bushings on my Manche in no time when I had access to a hoist. :yes:

Russell 694850 is the correct part number for stainless steel braided brake lines in our comanche's and they DO make a noticeable difference (The rubber lines I replaced had less than 2k miles on them, so they where still "new") although please note the rear line is a little too short, it seems a little stretched when the manche is jacked up all the way by the frame,,, I don't off road so I don't really mind . :MJ 1: .

Yup springs are fine

Do any of you guys know how to clock the saginaw steering column correctly? I've read in other GM sites/forums on how to position the steering gear box at center and verify the chisel mark on the shaft where the steering wheel is bolted is at 12 o clock, has anyone actually done this on their comanche? I've tried everything to position my steering wheel correctly so my turn signals cancel when they're supposed to but haven't had any luck.

DO NOT second guess the dual diaphragm brake upgrade, the benefits far outweigh the cost.

Try kicking the crap out of the gas tank right below the fuel pump to while somebody cranks it sometimes it will "wake it up" and run for a bit if not try jumping the ballast for the fuel pump on the driver side inner fender right by the air box or you can also spray starting fluid and see if it starts or at least sputters or you can do a fuel pressure test with a fuel gauge hooking it up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail these steps should help a bit :thumbsup:

There was a hot thread on forbbodiesonly.com a while back I got excited thinking the same picture was going to pop up when I opened this one :eek: ,,,,, sorry I can't help with info on that type of rack :brows:

UPDATE I replaced my barb connectors with the appropriate adapters and the transmission threads where perfectly fine, if any one finds themselves in a pinch you can buy 1/4" mnpt fittings at the hardware store with a little teflon tape ( I would suggest using a 1/2" I.D washer to keep the hex on the fitting from gouging the tranny case) and run some power steering/ tranny fluid hose up to the cooler, hope this can help someone out of a mess.

My local junk yard is having a 50% off sale this weekend, are there any differences other than the spline count and brake set up on the chrysler 8.25 rear that I should be aware of? is the "flat bottom" the only way to identify these diffs? thanks.

#$%@# I hope I can still save the threads, I've gotten lucky so far but don't want to risk it I read in some other forums during my search that other people took the same route that I did and actually used air hose fittings.

Any one here replaced their trannys quick connects with regular barb fittings? I had to do some service on my manche recently and broke one of the connectors going into the transmission, I had to get her running in a pinch so I grabbed some regular 1/4 NPT to 3/8 barb fittings to get er going, no leaks and everything works great so far, but I read somewhere the actual thread in the AW4's is actually 14x1.5 :dunno: , I'm not too familiar with fittings can any of you guys give some advice on this? the fittings went on by hand without a problem.

OK email sent,thanks.

Anyone have a spare Renix 4.0 intake hose for sale? the one that's bolted directly to the throttle body with the 3 bolts?

I'm planning on upgrading to the dual diaphragm booster on my manche but read that there's a 3/4 inch spacer required between the firewall and booster, do any of you know if the only vehicles with the spacers are the 95 and 96 XJ's or can they be found in other model year vehicles? thanks in advance.

Any updates on your DW?

Yup, shifter was real soggy ( there's a joke there somewhere :brows: )

Nevermind classicparts.com has them in stock, part number 91-131 is for tilt columns and 91-132 is for non tilt in case anyone else is looking for one.

Does anyone know which part number or application will work on the 1989 saginaw steering column shift levers? my shift lever spring is done for. it's a tilt column, non telescoping with intermittent wipers.

I'm running a CSF 2671 3 core Radiator, it fit like a glove and it works awesome!!! I've never overheated and don't even have a fan shroud ( next on my junk yard list) altough it's more expensive than either one you mentioned I don't think less cores are better for cooling.

NICE SCORE !!!! :rock on:

I got mine as a gift from my brother, It belonged to a delivery driver when I used to work at an auto parts warehouse and try to strike a deal with him but it never went through.My brother showed up at my house in it one day excited as hell to hand me the keys because he knew how bad I wanted it it's been my pride and joy ever since I love EVERYTHING about the truck.

wonder if the rebuild kits are the same for both injector types? :???:

It is EXACTLY 180 degrees off :hmm: , maybe now that I made room in my garage I can spend a weekend looking into it I don't like the thought of it being off.

I did the timing set on my 89 4.0 and noticed my timing marks were off 180 degrees (crank timing mark was at 12 o clock and so was camshaft timing mark) I didn't have enough time to straighten things out so i just put it back the way it was, I'm planning to set everything back to the way it should be and indexing the distributor since it's been bugging me, this is on my daily driver comanche, do any of you see any negative effects this may have on the engine meanwhile? do you guys recommend I do anything else while I'm in there straightening things out?