big66440

I thought everything on the internet was true :wall:

I would have told the machine shop to find it and pay for it, that's VERY unprofessional on their part.

I'm gonna take a shot at this, I believe they are 3/8x16, I don't know the length sorry.

Thanks again Jtrux, I was actually going to pull the trigger on a Yukon ring and pinion set, I was thinking of going with 3.73's. I had a talk with the guy that built my drive shaft and he doesn't think the noise is from the diff either he said ( and I agree 100%) if it where the bearings or the pinion nut it would howl all the time, I 'm going to stop by a shop that does nothing but diffs and see if one of their techs will go for a ride and listen.

Thanks Jtrux, I had a drive shaft made a few weeks ago and the guy doing the work ( as well as myself ) checked the pinion nut and it was tight. The weird thing is it only howls on deceleration between 45-50MPH :hmm: though. I also checked to see if there was any play on the pinion and it was solid.

Looks Great !! :thumbsup: just make sure to stock up on tail lights and tailgates :laughin:

Are the rebuild kits the same for all D35 rear differentials?( Pinion bearings, carrier bearings, ring and pinion?) I'm going to rebuild mine since its starting to howl during deceleration. I know the spider gears and wheel bearings are different for the bolt in axle D35 and the c clip type, I've already replaced those so I'm just wondering about the parts for the carrier and ring and pinion,thanks. * Please do not respond with " just replace it with a D44, Ford 8.8, Chrysler 8 1/4 etc,etc etc"

Of course the 2WD shafts can all be shortened. The problem is that sometimes they can't be balanced afterwards because of the deteriorated rubber sheath inside. Thanks Hornbrod, that was the case with mine.

SOLVED- It was the driveshaft, I guess the rubber inside was failing and the fact that these shafts weight a ton was not helping. I got a brand new driveshaft made and its smooth as glass now.

Bump?

Front bearings are well packed with Mobil 1 bearing grease and adjusted to factory shop manual specs ( 2WD ), Brake pedal is very solid and shows no signs of warped parts.

My Comanche has a vibration that begins at 70 MPH, it's not an " wheel out of balance" shake but more of a pronounced humming you can feel on the floor board and hear through the cab. I have replaced the extension housing bushing in the transmission,u-joints, spider gears and rear wheel bearings which where worn out anyway. I know these problems are difficult to diagnose without audio/visual but have any of you had a similar problem? I'm leaning towards the drive shaft having to do something with it since It's got that stupid rubber insert, any of you guys have a clue to what may be causing it? thanks

Just curious but are you bench bleeding the master cylinder?

I have the same Borgeson piece waiting to be installed according to the instructions it's not 100% bolt on. Was it difficult to install? any tips? thank you

I bled the living crap out of mine before I realized I had a tiny leak on my double flares going into the valve. Good luck, hope you're able to get some results and enjoy your truck again.

X3 on the cowl fresh air duct, I patched it with some roofing stuff when I pulled my dash.

Welcome to the forum and the addiction, depending on where you live you will want to look for rust. There's tons of support here from some very knowledgeable members that have been around the hobby for a very long time as well as the similarities between the XJ so what ever the issue(s) might be there's a big chance it can be fixed.

Nice !!! Congrats.

Thanks for your expertise Eagle, I did some more research and found out there are 2 different part numbers used for the lower ball joints 84-89 and 90-01 I tried to find some more in depth information but I couldn't. I'm assuming since the knuckles/spindles are interchangeable the taper for the ball joints and tie rod as well as the dimensions would be the same, my question is this something that has to do with 2WD and 4WD?

X2, get a brass punch and turn the lock ring clockwise, I would suggest lubing it with a little grease so you won't damage the seal

I agree. The '01 steering box had been trashed by a previous owner and couldn't be adjusted, so I had to replace it anyway. If I had it to do over, I'd go to AGR Steering and buy a 10:1 box. (Which would NOT be good for large tires and rock crawling.) That 10:1 box sounds interesting, do you have a part number?

I really don't see what the advantage is over the more readily available and cheaper 95-96 XJ set up, I'm not trying to tell you how to spend your money on your vehicle but I have the 95-96 XJ set up with steel braided brake lines http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-694850 and my MJ's brakes are better than some newer cars, as an added bonus there's tons of info and support on this swap. To each his own though I'm just throwing in my 2 pennies worth.

I did a full tune up on it, cap and rotor ( NAPA ) Taylor high Performance wires, new plugs ( factory recommended Champions) and I've done the 4 hole Injector upgrade and still pings though.

I use 91 on mine, it pings on anything below that octane :dunno:, I may have carbon buildup but haven't verified.

I've gotten lucky and gotten some at local JY's as well, take a drill with a 3/8 bit a few punches for the rivets, BFH and an adjustable wrench for the nut holding the regulator to the glass. You'll get so good after the first window the second one will be a breeze, BTW you can use 1/4x20 nuts and bolts in place of rivets.