big66440

Thank you :thumbsup:

I apologize for the stupid question but does the intake/exhaust manifold gasket require any type of sealant when it's replaced? I will be using Fel Pro part number MS93680, thank you.

I have Brown dogs as well, they will vibrate more that OE replacements just an FYI if your into the "Cadillac ride"

Hey guys, I'm going to be replacing my flex plate ( teeth are badly worn in one spot ), rear main seal and oil pan gasket as well as the freeze plug in back of the head while I'm in there. Do you guys think it will be easier to just pull out the engine and transmission together? or should I drop the transmission and do the the work with the engine in place? thanks.

NICE!! Thanks for sharing,I've been looking for a decent one for my "on the road" box. You seem like a good candidate for the "garage Journal" forum are you a member already?

OP I'm running the typical 95-96 XJ Dual diaphragm booster/ master cylinder set up, Russell steel braided brake lines and did the leveling valve delete swap for a manually adjustable valve and I really cannot imagine my brakes being better, they are rock solid. As far as steering I have a Borgeson steering shaft, ZJ quick ratio gear box, JKS Heavy duty Tie Rod, KOR Heavy duty steering stabilizer, KOR steering gear box brace and the Iron Rock Offroad Tow bar. It seems like many of the items I've installed are way over kill but they've made a very noticeable improvement in steering response, ride and even handling.

Could be a lifter tick? my Comanche's lifters are VERY picky with the motor oil I use and how clean it is. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope you can use to pin point where the noise is coming from? One trick I've seen done to check for "rod knocks" is to disable the cylinders one by one while the engine is running and making the noise ( simply disconnect and then reconnect the injectors one by one) and the one rod that has a spun bearing will quiet down while that cylinder is disabled.

I hope they offer a regular cab model, but guessing from what I've read on where the manufacturers stand in building a compact,midsize truck I doubt it.

I got the same one from Rock auto and did not like how it fit I don't know if the fact that I put new padding underneath had anything to do with it.

I hate to ask but,,,,why not? :???: , I pulled a dash from the JY months ago and did this. I just riveted the new VIN plate to the replacement dash. It's technically illegal in most places. You probably shouldn't admit you did that. IMHO, who cares, no ill intent in doing it. Make sure you use the right rivets and it looks good... Here if you replace the driver's door, dash, frame, and any other VIN tagged location (firewall and core support in our application) on a vehicle, you're supposed to get the local insurance/licensing monopoly involved, and they will inspect it and typically issue an entirely new VIN and lighten your wallet in the process. Which makes no sense, so nobody does that. Most of the vehicles I buy are old (and junk) and I find at least one missing VIN or mismatch, and I haven't gone to jail yet, nor has the sky fallen on me. Understood, I figured if the officer is savvy enough he or she can look at the other VIN's to verify since they're all there and original. For once I'm actually surprised other places have "stricter laws" than California,,, you can't even buy a good gas powered pressure washer if it's not CARB approved :shake:

I hate to ask but,,,,why not? :???: , I pulled a dash from the JY months ago and did this. I just riveted the new VIN plate to the replacement dash.

You can crank the engine while you're racing and use it like a cheater NOS set up , kill 2 birds with one stone

Sorry Cruiser didn't mean to upset you :D , I think I'll stick with the 3:73's it may not be much of a difference from the 3:55's but I'll be able to "scratch that itch" . I know some XJ's and MJ's were equipped with 4:10's and 4:56's but I'm guessing it's simply because the little 4 poppers they came with from the factory needed the gear reduction more than the 4.0. If I had my dream house far from the city I wouldn't hesitate to go with 4.56's but that's a story for another day.

I would love to upgrade to a a different rear end but I just dropped $350.00 to get a brand new drive shaft made besides my truck is 2WD and I really don't see the real NEED to go bigger and or stronger at the moment. Looking at the math with the 4:10 ratio it seems the engine will be revving 357 RPM higher at 80MPH, I'm assuming that would be a considerable difference on a long distance trip?. My truck sees stop and go street driving 95% of the time, sorry for the ignorance but wouldn't the 4:10's cause the AW4 to shift too quickly through the gears?

Hey guys I have to get my Dana 35 rebuilt and was wondering if going to 3:73,s from 3:55's would make a huge difference in performance/mileage. My tire size is 235/75/15, according to the online calculators at 80MPH it would make a difference of less than 200RPM. This is for my daily driver which sees quite a bit of street and highway miles, thanks.

Welcome to the forum,it shouldn't be that difficult to find any local auto glass should readily have it or be able to order it.

You took the words right out of my mouth :rotf: :laughin:

Thank you for the tip, I've actually tried to register to the forum twice but it hasn't worked. :???:

I just may do this after all, I already have a 7120 head ready to go as well. Is there a piston you would recommend to use with 87 octane ? I know there are slight differences with 4.0 pistons, thanks.

I've thought about seeing if maybe I can have a shop weld/machine something to adapt the EGR tube, smog inspections in CA are both a visual and "sniff" test ( OBD cars must have readiness codes set and ready as well and they are checked with a scanner). There are ways of "making it pass" but I don't want to do that, I was hoping writing this on this forum would get me better results with the Renix stroker set up since most Comanches were Renix, I know to most it will seem as though the Edelbrock head will be overkill but I'm not trying to make this thing a 6000RPM screamer, on the contrary I'm looking for as much low end and mid-range as I can get.

Hey guys I was daydreaming about building a stroker 4.0 today and came up with this combination. Edelbrock aluminum head, Comp 68-232-4 cam, port matched renix intake and exhaust ( I live in CA so EGR has to stay), 4.2 crank , 4.0 rods, and Icon IC944 .030 over pistons- according to Summits compression calculator the compression ratio would be 9.69:1 using Edelbrocks .042 thickness head gasket and pistons .020 in the hole. This would be a daily driven on 89 octane as well, what do you guys think? I've already gone through as much info as I could find for the head BTW and for those wondering I'd like the advantage of the modern combustion chamber. weight savings, thanks.

:thumbsup: Thanks Hornbrod, this is going to be much easier than I thought :wrench:

Any of you guys have a temp gauge for your AW4? if so where did you mount the sending unit? thanks.

You can find TONS of info on the cause and even how to fix it using Google and Youtube, it can be a single component or a combination of things causing it ( I agree with the above posts and start with inspecting the trackbar) good luck.

From What I understand yes, although the rear drive shaft (and rear end because of shock mounts and spring perches) will be different . I'm not experienced on this but have browsed a bit, I'm sure whatever questions you have will be answered in this forum :thumbsup: , good luck and welcome.