Exgrayxj

Not sure if they are all like the ones I got, but the set I got from rock auto are made of very thin plastic, pretty close to vinyl sheeting! Haven't put them in yet, I think I may hold off for some jy factory ones ... I don't know if the 97 up ones work or not.

She got an A.

No idee why, but the other day someone was having a problem getting it to put 4.10, ratio ... would only print the .10, let's see if it works yup ...33333 3.07

YEA! That is a good breakdown. I used the #1 to replace the #5, it is slightly wider but works great. That is a good price on the #3, might just order some new ones ... BTW, look at the price on #5, WAY cheaper to do a little experimenting with some next to free #1s from the u pull ...

Are you referring to the seal that slips over the pinch seam of the door and goes all the way around? Yes, seals the door to the body opening.

On the 97 up part, it is just the lower,outside part that I used, that wipes the window glass. It needs modified, but will work, to me, better than the original. In Tenn I wouldn't think the xj ones of any year would be fried, like they are here in Fla. The 97 up xj has a better door opening weatherstrip, also. And, reportedly the zj is even thicker, can't vouch for that, it just happened that I got a good zj one in sight, and grabbed it. The division strip swaperoo I used the glass run stuff from older model xjs, I didn't even pay attention to what the newer ones used. Pretty dumb, huh?

I looked at the link you gave, the pic of all the stuff piled together is a generic photo, go a little lower and the specific weatherstrip is what appears to be a one size fits all door opening seal ... and if you have any upull yards the one from a later xj or a zj will be yours for a couple bucks, just use a little care in choosing one that is not torn, and remove the plastic trim that covers some of it, and some gentle pulling and it will be yours. On your mj, roll the window down, the channel at top and back (it is one piece, runs down into the door at the rear) is what I used. I pulled some of mine out to try, and it would fit, so next time at the yard got plenty more. Not an exact 100% factory deal, but works great, in my mj a normal conversation is now possible. The vent glass division strip, I only replaced basically what is visible, the stuff further down in the door didn't seem so hardened, the stuff at the top broke out like plastic, so I only replaced as much as was needed. I got lucky on some parts I bought and got a perfect, soft, original one, it is riveted at the bottom, so if you are as lucky, keep that in mind. Edit I didn't have the heart to waste the perfect seal on my doors, so kept it and did the channel swap deal.

I have seen this posted a number of times, but on my 90 mj and 87xj it is not the case. the inner has a lip to hold the inner door panel. This IS however the case on my old D100 Dodge. I recently grabbed the decent window "surround" (the channel that goes up the back and top of the rollup window) from a couple xj s at the upull . After a little experimenting, ( I could because there was so much extra) I used some of it to replace the division bar channel (vent post ) , without even ripping the door upholstery off, the post channel was hard as plastic down to just below the point where the side glass goes below the metal (make sense?), I cleaned all the old hard stuff out, and worked the new/old side glass channel stuff in. It is a little wider (thicker?) than the original, but it works great and makes a major difference in the noise level ! This piece has an extra lip, it doesn't get in the way of anything, can be used as is. Also replaced the door frame seal with one from a zj, trimmed to fit. A couple of the L shaped door glass pieces will give you WAY more material than you need, so you can experiment. Did the same on my xj, on all 4 doors, too. I am a cheap bastard, and hated to pay over $100 for new, and the upull didn't even charge me for rubber parts when I was buying other stuff ... OR, be prepared to cough up the $$$ The outside pieces along the bottom, outside of the roll up, I grabbed some '97 up xj pieces. With some careful trimming they are perfect on the mj, I recommend getting extras to experiment with. A dremel and an exacto or razor blades are your friends here. IIRC you will want to trim the lower edge of the vent rubber ... BTW, a gasket scraper or paint scraper work to remove these, carefully put it at the lower edge, and drive it upwards ...after the first one the location of the clips that hold them in place will be obvious. On the xj I finally got lucky and found some soft outside rubbers, only took 3 xj's to come up with a set. This was after I did the outside of the mj.

Bolt in, freshened up, trutrack, $300 is a deal. I can't even fine a 44 around here, I am looking at a Dodge 150 8.25, and modifying it to work. (saddles, etc). Looks to be 1 1/2" wider per side. Guy is asking $220, it's a suregrip, out of a '78 so it has the right bolt pattern. I can't even seem to find a xj 8.25 with a suregrip for my xj ...

My mj doesn't have a hood pad, and my XJ wagoneer has a LT1 Chebby. But it has a hood pad. I think that is clearance for the a/c compressor/heater hoses? My xj pad does however have TWO rectangular holes, close together, in the area for the underhood corded trouble light. Though the light is not there on this one ...

Nothing is what I had when I replaced the u joint ...I got a National #471765 seal, installed in the axle end, like said, better than nothing, Figured it would keep the birds and mice out ... good to have the image, I wasn't sure what to look for. Thanks, Neohic.

Bummer, dude

Thanks, Comanchekid, I have no idea whether the diesel models had steep gears or something like 3.07s. With only, what, 80 or 100 horses from a little renault diesel , I was thinking it needed all the help it could get. It is too nice to junk (by the pics) but all I am interested in it for is sheet metal and axles Though I DID do a quick look on ebay and found a Toyota JDM takeout diesel engine/automatic/transfer unit nearby ...starting at a mere $2k. So, a $2000-2500 engine/trans in a $700 xj, sounds like a plan. Not. Sorry, xj.

Just a quickie ...locally (sort of) I found a '85 xj 2dr, 4wd, 5spd diesel for sale. Motor is out, maybe gone, ad says one owner, think it shows 75k miles, pics look pretty decent. Original turbine wheels, matching michelins, decent interior, etc. $750 My mind says way too nice and rare to part out, but ... would this have 4.10 gears? Or 4.56?

I am a complete idiot on the interweb thingie, but am a member over on Moparts, where before I submit something I can attach a pic, from my computer (have no other storage) by hitting a "browse" button. I don't know what that means or how it is done, seems like magic to me. I don't even know how to cut and glue ...or whatever. I can turn wrenches and weld tho ...and skin knuckles and cuss with the best!

Got my visors ... a thing of beauty! Bad part is, with the new headliner and visors, how shabby it makes the rest of the truck seem ... Thanks, Steve!

I dunno, I find this place to be a generally good place to hang out, and with some pretty knowledgable knoledgable knowlidgable knowladgable knnowlegble ... informed people, who as a rule have good info, and dispense with it freely. This is my first MJ, not my first Jeep, and have learned a lot of mj specific info here. If I didn't think it was a good place to hang, I wouldn't. Want to see some really opinionated, my stuff is the best, yours is crap, nothing currently made is worth spit, cruise on over to Moparts. Virtually anything you post will be picked apart. I still go there, a lot. Probably the best mopar specific site on this webby thing. Just sayin ...

My only propane use is gas grille ...$18 to fill 20# cylinder, at Ace Hardware ... central Fla

I'll bet you are REAL cautious sliding across the hood ...

My front and sides fit fine, the fitment problems I have are in the rear, more at the left (driver) side than the right. The cab corner piece is pushed away at the window opening. From outside you can see the plastic in the glass area. I had a small buckle approximately behind the drivers head area, but worked that out by moving things on the velcro. And in the front, without some velcro to hold things in place it sort of sagged down, put some velcro there it is good now. Do it before you start it will make it easier. Try to have the "J" hooks for both sides, also, I only had one. All in all, I am very pleased with it, my options were very limited. The 3 factory boards I have, none were good candidates. My feeling is that the new board needs a bit more "cup" in the back corners, or perhaps some trimming on the bottom edge? I considered using a heat gun to soften things and push it more into the corner, but did not. In any event, it is far and away the best looking part of my interior, and I for one am glad to have it! My crummy old visors look pretty shoddy, but Steve is taking care of that for me! Thank you thank you thank you

From the pics there is a ton of xj stuff there...gas tank and shield, bump snubbers, sway bar, seats, dash, plus the obvious axles. Everything looks way more professionally done than just some hack job ... maybe you have stumbled onto a factory test vehicle, camoflaged as a Volvo. Where is this? I think you should document it with lots more pics. Hard to believe anyone would do all that to just use some available xj parts. Look for vin numbers, what year is that Volvo? I am thinking late 70s? Would have made good cover for a test vehicle ... It's just that everything looks too professional. Brackets for front control arms, spring mounts, etc.

I think I like this idea, but the pics don't work for me on this old post. Is it me or do they expire?

IF you are lucky, and have the room, the offending broken bolt can be burned out of the head with a torch. It won't hurt the cast iron, maybe just a little cleanup with a tap, but it won't melt the cast iron. On the one with a little sticking out, just heating it then vise grips might do it. I didn't just hear this, I have done it. I didn't believe at first, though, when I was told it.

Jim, I bought 2 pair of zj coils at the upull, one was an Orvis edition, the other was not otherwise special, both V8 4wd, and both had identical springs. Both had (apparently factory) poly sway bar links and bushings, got them and a bar also. Most of the zjs didn't have the poly stuff. The first pair went into my v8 powered xj, and raised it at the front bumper 3" exactly, and were clearly an upgrade when paired next to each other. (XJ v ZJ) The second pair was for my (as far as I know) stock mj. 1990, 4.0/4wd/AW4/short box. When I went to swap them I could not get the axle to drop enough without a fight, daylight was running out, so I put it back together. But while I was wrestling with it, it occurred to me that the springs looked very similar. As far as I can tell free length is the same. Same number of coils. And if not exactly the same, within a couple thousandths of being the same wire diameter. I have some other front end work to do, so have put off installing the springs until I am ready to do those also. The ZJ springs I have here have a tag, and the #5208 6362 (?) and code FN on it. Question on the last four digits, could be 8382, or 8362, you get it. They are as far as I can tell, freestanding, exactly like the one you have on the right. The short spring you have appears to be even shorter than the spring I took out of the xj, Wagoneer. (Now thrown out).The xj WAS a 4.0/4wd.AW4, now has Chevy v8/700r4. When I ran into the situation on the mj it seemed they were the same, but all I have read is that it is good for a lift, and that 2wd mj used a shorter spring, 4x spring was a lift, and the zj was lift over that. Not so sure now.

HAH! That xj Waggy is the twin in color to the one I have! Mine is from Tenn, and has a LT1/700r4/4wd. And my MJ is a white swb/4wd/Sport. That pic could have been taken in my drive! Caution, mj's are addictive.