Blue88Comanche

I have a 16x24 patio, and the small concrete slab in front of the 6x12 shed. mostly hand tools, few power tools, 2 jacks, 2 jack stands, 8 rims.... and natural heating and cooling (I can adjust the thermostat unfortunately), no shade. in other words, i work in the back yard. My Uncle on the other hand has a 2 car garage with 10 or 12 foot ceiling... and climate control.. I have my CJ-5 in his garage with his 300ZX

plenty of pics will be posted :brows: it sounds like it should be an awesome cake

Took my rear Drive shaft to be shortened

you can replace it with one from a XJ or ZJ.. the front prop valve will need the bypass line to be plugged or replaced with the XJ or ZJ. that is what that diagram on the first page was for.

thanks :thumbsup: :cheers:

cool :drool:

I was under the MJ tonight when i noticed this. its the drivers side bed mound by the cab. but it looks like something could be bolted there as a option?

you mean this? its the height sensor

:redX: Pics?

She finally told me what she is up too... Because we own 2 Gyms we get to meet all kinds of people, one of them makes awesome Cakes (sorta like Cake Boss if you watch tv)... She is going to make a cake that re-enacts that picture.. It sounds cool :D

not really a bumper but a mount with no clearance issues at least http://detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php

It was meant more to show how the 3 soft lines ran as that's what he will need to replace but yes you are correct also I didn't make the diagram someone posted it in the mj info pic thread. no prob :thumbsup: just adding detail to the diagram :cheers:

you just have 3 soft lines 2 front and one in the rear that t's off to 2 hard lines on the axle... brake cyl./ front distro block/ 2 front lines/2 rear hard lines/ one hardline is the primary rear brake line that goes to the height sensor then to the axle block, the other hardline is a bypass line (if the front brakes fail the bypass line kicks in and puts full power to the rear). the diagram is one option if you wanted to remove the height sensor, and it does not show the rear prop valve

Jim, you easily win this, the rest of us are battling for second place. :yes: :cheers: :agree: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

parking break cables

any 90 and under XJ in the JY

1961 CJ-5: 51 two 1988 MJs: 24 1989 MJ: 23 1989 XJ: 23 2003 KJ: 9 2005 KJ: 7 2005 WK: 7 2005 Ford Five-hundred: 7 average: 19.444

should be 3 unless something was changed, 2 front 1 rear

Puck = Spacers = budget boost

Warn Trans4mer Grille Guard

called the local off-road shop, $125 to shorten blast and paint.. so tonight looks like i will be removing the shaft and taking it in tomorrow.

I won't drive MJ any this week so i guess i will go ahead a remove the shaft tonight or tomorrow. how much should i get it shortened? and about how much does it usually cost to get it shortened VS getting a new one?

I swapped in a D44 this weekend. and it looks like my slip yoke has very little play... The D44 is about a inch longer than the D35.. do i need to get my drive shaft shortened right now or is it something that can wait as long as i just use it to go around town in? Thanks

if you are going to get hell creek springs, might as well get the Metric Ton springs... they give about 3 inches of lift and add about 500 lbs to cargo capacity. for the front ZJ V8 coils will lift about 2 inches, spacers can be added if you need to level it out more. I am running ZJ V8 coils and 2 inch spacers front with Hell Creek Metric Ton leaves in the back, with 31x10.5R15 tires

Gotta love Rock Auto :wrench: