Blue88Comanche

well if they know what happens after they mess with our MJs and that stops them, then it seems to me working like a nuclear deturant.

So... what did you do? Rob Am also very curious about this. Everybody knows better than to seriously mess with my MJ. Everyone I know pokes fun at it on occasion but that kind of stuff has never bothered me. I guess no one ever messes with it because they're too afraid of a 6'4 235lb 19 year old getting out of the cab. Being tall and in good physical shape is a natural deterrent y'know. :yes: ... err, well i am only 5'7 150lbs, but no one messes with my MJ... I cause i just might put their car on blocks, just high enough so the wheels won't get traction, then take their car jack :D

well with my current furniture arrangement I would have had to been blind to not see it. Seeing as my couch is currently (and has been for a month) located 4 feet from my tv (CoD Black OPs every other night). Eventually I hope my living room will be restored... lol

so I was bored and was watching some recorded tv when i noticed in the intro to Top Gear (American Version) that one of the vehicles appears to be a Comanche, a 3d Comanche but one none the less! it looks like it has the Jeep front corner lights, and looks like it has the cab vent like our Comanche's. what do you think?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16750&hilit=paint My post was based on how professional painters do the job. If you do proper prep work, Sanding your base is not necessary. Sanding your base between coats is like using your base as primer. That's what primer is for! using your base as primer sounds like a waste of basecoat/money. sanding between coats is only necessary if you are a terrible painter, and are willing to wait like 4 hours between coats. I've painted 1/2 million dollar cars, and have never sanded my base between coats. The only thing I can think of even remotely related to that would be colorsanding your first clear job, and re-clearing to get that perfect glasslike finish. In which case, you probably aren't doing it yourself! The idea of a "Perfect sanding job" is to use progressively finer paper to cancel the previous sand scratches. As in, use 80 grit for your body work. use 120 grit to sand out the 80 grit scratches. use 180 grit to sand out the 120 scratches. Prime the job. sand with 220-240 grit paper. Sand with 320-360 to sand out the 220 scratches. sand with 400-800 (depending on basecoat) to sand out the 360 scratches. and you are ready for paint.

the saiga 12 is the shotgun version of the AK, my uncle's friend has one and loves it

x3 cheaperthandirt.com That's where I have been getting my AR gear from, their prices are awesome. An AK is going to be my next rifle purchase.. or an AR-15 platform that chambers 7.62x39

I like the tail lights on my WK thats why i went with that model and not the WJs :D now if i could get a Commander or new style Liberty front on my WK I would be sitting happy :D :cheers: If you do get to look at a Commander see if the 3rd row seats are removable, Dad has been looking into getting another Jeep to replace his current Liberty, and he liked the looks of the Commander as well as the newer Libertys.

:agree: The ride in the WK is awesome, it drives better than all of my family's other vehicles and even my Sisters Ford Five-Hundred Limited. My only regret is getting it in 2wd :fool: The 4.7 and the 5.7 get the same MPG so if you can just get the HEMI. The 4.7 has plenty of DD power and has already gotten me my first speeding ticket... When I was Shopping for mine there where tons of 4x4 V6 but the nearest 4x4 V8 for sale in my price range was in Texas. so that's why i settled for my 4wd 4.7 V8 :fool: But I still love it

from what i have been told the interior room of the commander is somewhat cramped, my guess would be because of the 3 rows of seats they stuffed in there. but i like the look of the commander and the newer libertys. if the commander is heaver than the WK don't get a v6, I have the 4.7 V8 in my WK and it is perfect (till i get to the pump but its a jeep). I am getting about 17 ish MPG driving to and from work and around town, 20 miles to work 10 miles around town and 20 miles back home, 5 days a week. hope that helps

swapped a new alternator into dad's MJ, and reassembled the frontend on my MJ. The Comanche's can be driven again! :D

:rotfl2:

awesome, time to pull out the angle grinder :wrench:

so in theory i can just cut it off and not worry about it

what is involved in replacing the dust / splash shield (or whatever it is called) on the MJ? I managed to bend up the ones on the donor axle and would like to replace them.. Thanks

Last week i got started on replacing the front axle to one with proper gears, and as i was removing the front drive shaft i came across this. looks like i will be replacing it as well.. maybe this weekend i can finish the swap and finally put the new TC in 4wd, or rather full time 4wd till i get the shifter linkage hooked up!

my guess would be behind the grille to protect the radiator

started swapping the front axles, then i found this on the front drive shaft...

I just have yahoo, 2 gmail, and a apple (example@me.com account all going to my iPhone. yahoo is the only account i check on the PC... and the only one that i really needed while it was down

yes, we where having problems with it yesterday

It's not hard, and when changing ratios it's just part of the install process anyway so calling it "re"shimming isn't correct. When you regear, you replace both the pinion gear and the ring gear. On the Dana 30, the break is when going from 3.54 to 3.73 so you're not going to need a new carrier. But the new pinion gear has to be installed at the correct depth, so that's one set of shims. And you need (ideally) a special jig to set the pinion depth, although there should be a depth code stamped into the nose of the gear and you can guessimate the required shim thickness based on that. Once the pinion is at the correct depth you set the backlash, which is done by adding, removing, and shifting shims from one side of the carrier to the other until you get a proper wear pattern and backlash within spec. Unless you know what you're doing inside the pumpkin, it's really a lot easier to swap the entire axle. i know a axle swap would be easier and i may end up going that rout any way despite how i feel about the donor axle but, would it be something i can learn on one of my extra axles with the service manual? because at $400 per axle for labor only... I would like to know how to do it my self if i can. has anyone posted anything like this in the D.I.Y.?

on our 88 and 89 the rotors are different.. dad's 2wd had the hub bearings and studs attached to the rotor itself where as the rotor on my 4wd slides onto the hub and the lug studs pass through the rotor. 2wd bearing note the studs attached to the rotor on the 2wd rotors 4wd hub (borrowed from cherokeecorum.com) 4wd rotor

so how hard is it to re shim gears? I need to regear my D30 from 3.07 to 3.55 or swap the entire axle out... but my current axle appears to be in better shape. so i have not figured out what rout i want to go..

Those things are damn addicting.. and the honey mustard pretzel pieces are great also... Being married to a Dollar General manager cannot be good for my sodium intake.... good to know I am not the only one hooked lol

I like the original and spicy Chex mix, saltine crackers with cheese (i prefer sharp cheddar but will settle for mild or American), the Dollar General store by my work has some awesome Pita crackers for a dollar, the Bacon and Cheese flavor is the best IMO.