acfortier

I feel like I have seen more LWB bars than SWB bars recently, but nice score! Same with toppers--seem to exist more for LWB than SWB.

I think a couple months ago at this point. It's been listed on FB for awhile now.

I tried getting in contact with that guy, he did the same to me, lol.

I think I did, but I'll mess with again next time I'm working on it. It has been disconnected for now... lol

Heh, mine started buzzing constantly when the key would be removed from the ignition, even when it was set to off. Not sure if that means the chime itself went bad, or if I have another issue...

I think this is a different guy, said he'd be willing to sell: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1402616813111625/posts/9755872684452621/

Are you sure it's an AX-15? Would have had to be swapped in at some point in time. A simpler question would be if it's a manual or auto. If it's the auto, it should have a NSS.

Looks in roughly the same condition as mine, same color and wagon, too. I would check the rockers underneath the plastic cladding as well as the rear leaf spring mounts, those are the things that tend to go and they're hard to catch/see. Can't seem to get good pictures of them from that photo album.

Yep, mine is on the thermostat housing since I have an HO. Unplugged that, and fan immediately started up.

How do you know it never turns on? I thought the same thing since it seemed my MJ was getting pretty hot (like 220*) and the electric fan wasn't kicking on. But I unplugged the temp. sender, and it turned on. Unplug the temp. sender, this should automatically start the fan.

It’s definitely possible if they swapped the whole top end. I don’t know what the actual differences are, but what’s mentioned in my screenshot about the turbos and injection pump is worth looking into.

One of the pictures of the engine that was sent to me. The "J8S 234" gives it away. Here's the post from the FB group:

I would suggest joining a Renault FB group, as well as a Lesharo FB group. There's tons of good information on both regarding this engine. I was seriously considering purchasing it before you, but once I found out that the engine is not original (and is from a Lesharo) it lost it's attraction to me.

Description says floor shift, tilt columns only. I was tempted... Not sure how this even goes on without destroying it, lol

Now we just need someone to reproduce the rubber mud flaps themselves...

The years listed are incorrect, 91-92 has a different graphic--see my 91 in my signature.

Anyone want to trade this for a short bed one? I'd pick it up in a heart beat lol

NP. If it's hard to read, shoot me a message and I can get you a higher res. image.

Here's the PDU

Here's the bulkhead diagrams from my 91 FSM

Cool! I just bought a cluster w/ tach for mine, have yet to hook it up. Sounds like they were flaky, at best, but I like your replacement! Will keep that in mind. Did someone swap in the 4.0 from somewhere? I've thought about doing a swap. Or did you mean to write 4.2?

I'll be in Nashville for a bachelor party, so I won't be around. Have fun!

OK, found this resource and it makes a lot more sense to me now. Going to try to get something set up to test next time this occurs. I did measure resistance, primary was 1.5 - 1.9 ohms, secondary was around 13.5k. The primary seems a little high, but I'm not sure if that could contribute to the issue?

I guess I could--not sure if my symptoms are an indicator of a fuel pump relay going bad. The engine doesn't sputter or anything, just straight up shuts off.

OK, I'm a bit confused now. Backprobing the coil connector, and according to this, I want the DG/RD wire (which goes to the alternator) and the GY goes to the PCM. Does it make any sense to get voltage on both? I get 14.5V (same as the battery) when I backprobe the DG/RD wire, and like 13.8V when I backprobe the GY wire. That doesn't seem to make sense to me... Shouldn't that be a switched ground to the PCM?