acfortier

Also, this pigtail is just a standard Weatherpack, isn't it? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHEC152

My Part Time light is constantly staying on now. I assume I either have some sort of vacuum leak or the actuator is stuck in the "engaged" position? If I do the quick fix for a CAD delete (sliding the collar, flipping the fork to the other side), I assume the light won't function unless I change the switch on the transfer case to something outlined here, correct? https://budgetgarage.net/2017/10/21/cad-delete3/

Why not line up the two holes for the arm rest that are there, and just lightly push around where the third one will be, which will leave a mark and be exactly where you need it?

Are you referring to your Wrangler?

Broke right in half, lol

Ding ding ding, we have a winner! Bypassed it, and it runs fine. Plugged it back in, started up, and died a short while after. Looks like I'll be replacing that today!

Mine does, I’ll give it a shot in the AM

Thanks, it's been rock solid ever since I figured out the intermittent shut off issue... until today. Lol. Was pretty low on gas by the time I was able to get to the gas station, put in about 16.5 gallons I think. Drove it for about 15-20 miles until all of a sudden it wouldn't stay running. I turn the key, it fires up, then will either immediately die, or barely run and sputter out. Seems like a fuel delivery issue, touching the throttle does nothing. Not sure if I dislodged some crap in the tank and it's stuck in the lines/fuel filter, but I'm hoping it didn't damage the pump. Going to take off the fuel filter tomorrow, turn the key on to see if the pump runs and pushes out fuel (and maybe any crap that could be stuck) then replace the fuel filter. Definitely hitting myself in the head for this one, lol.

Searched the thread, but didn't see anything on prep/adhesion promoters. If I were to paint any of the interior plastic trim pieces, which product would you use?

Looking for a mini/bench console. Mine is missing one of the two mounting tabs, and it doesn't seem possible to fix it. I can't remember if they come in different colors or not, but black/gray/charcoal would be fine, I think.

And for the first time since I've owned it... it has a (near) complete interior! Decided not to dye the carpet for now--I think the gray breaks up the black nicely. Just need to get a center console and I'll be good to go.

Yeah, didn't tighten it too much--maybe a quarter of an inch/half inch more than what it was? Still plenty of thread left on the rod itself. Now that I think of it, I can't remember if I've ever checked the shoes on this.

Haven't gotten much done with the Eagle. I needed to flush and re-fill the coolant (since it was just sitting there with water) and got that completed, so it'll be good to go for winter. I've noticed that the transmission has been slowly leaking, like to completely empty, while sitting. It's coming from the rear passenger side of the pan, so I think it's a failed seal there. I splurged (not really, it was only $12) for the Mopar gasket, and holy smokes--it's no joke. The pan that was on the transmission I put it looked a little beat up (came from a Wrangler) and the one on the Eagle looks perfect, so I'll give them a swap and hope that the new gasket + pan fix the leak issue. ATF+4 ain't cheap!

Not much for updates. I've had a nagging oil leak for some time, and got around to addressing it. Outlined here: Reset the distributor again, and this time took apart the oil pressure sending unit from the tee, and the tee from the block and re-applied some sealant and put it all back together. I think I'm still getting maybe one or two drops after driving, but it's not as bad as it was. Could very well be the RMS, but it's too cold to want to dig more into it. Had to re-adjust the parking brake at the equalizer bracket--wasn't holding as well as it should have been. Much better now after following the FSM. I'm no welder, so I finally had the chance to bring it to a friend to weld up the big holes. Wire wheeled the rest of the scale, and this is what I'm left with before I start to coat with POR-15. I'm really hoping to get this done before it gets any colder, we have a couple 50 degree days this weekend that I'm hoping will suffice. Once that's done, I'll put down some sound deadening, jute carpeting, and put in the carpet. I'll then be able to button up the rest of the interior and it'll actually start to feel like a daily driver and not a project vehicle.

Had time to wire wheel the rust to prep for POR-15. More holes popped up, not surprisingly. These are the size of the holes I'm dealing with: Some slightly larger than a pin hole, but I'm going to use the silver POR-15 + tape behind and see if I can get them to fill up.

I didn't even know POR-15 came in different colors! That is perfect, thank you @ghetdjc320

Recently had a couple big patches put in on my Comanche, but noticing that I have several smaller pin-sized holes still on the floor. I don't think it really warrants cutting out/welding since they're so small, but wondering what other folks have used. I looked up All Metal/Lab Metal, seems promising. I was thinking of POR-15, using one of these metal fillers, then POR-15 again.

I think it's going to be tough to find anything other than a BA10/5 or AX-15 that will work, specifically because of the need for a CPS, so you can't work backwards. NV3550 might be doable: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/nv3550 Novak also lists other manual transmission upgrades in that same article, that won't be exactly plug-n-play but can work.

What has everyone used to replace the jute/carpet padding on their carpets? Mine's all torn up and missing pieces, and I figured I may as well replace it while I have it out.

I definitely haven't noticed it leaking steadily while running. If anything, it's just leaking/seeping enough to cause a spot on the ground, but not enough to see it in action, if that makes sense? Is the vent tube from the valve cover the one in front of the oil cap, or the one towards the back? The one at the front was definitely oily, so I wonder if that's the issue? I did take that elbow off, but it wasn't like it was restricted, or anything. I decided to remove the oil pressure sending unit + fitting and re-apply thread sealant to those and tightened back down. It's possible it's oil from those that was leaking out, and moving it's way towards the distributor. Makes sense about the clamp--I did notice that loosening the clamp was easy (as if the bolt itself wasn't tight) so I tightened it back up. We'll see if it continues to leak.

I'll have to check, there might be a gap but it's hard to tell. Not sure about the crankcase ventilation, but if it's not sealing correctly, it's going to leak... and if it is sealing correctly, then it shouldn't leak, regardless of pressure being built up, right? It's a pretty common area for these to leak from, so not sure.

Hummm, I replaced the gasket with a 024 o-ring, and I'm still getting a leak. Is the distributor installed correctly based on that clamp? Or does it need to go down more?

Probably a niche thing, but check the connector going into the coil. Mine was loose enough to cause a no start condition.

I saw your post over on [H], was going to mention to come here--but you've already found it! Nice score on the donor XJ

Brackets seem to be the easy thing to find, so I'll take it! Sending you a PM