JeffN

if the slave cylinder is internal the tubes will wiggle some

it won't be the arm thats bad, the multifunction arm just plugs into the turn signal switch under the steering wheel, pull the arm back and click for high beams and turn for wipers, the only real thing the multifunction arm really controls is cruise control directly. This is the part you probably need http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 65848_0_0_

my 90 comanche keeps the headlights on for about 30 seconds if i turn the truck off with the headlights on. I will have to check the wiring diagram to see if it is the same with an 89 if that is the year you have

It's actually a molded hard plastic tube that runs from the throttle body to the map sensor. The end that goes into the throttle body is hard plastic with a small rubber hose that hooks up to the map sensor. I think i may have a good one, if i do i am willing to ship it wherever you are.

top left side of bellhousing

It's just the air idle control circuit adjusting itself

Renix era the temp gauge sending unit is on the back top of the head on the drivers side oil sending unit is screwed into the oil filter housing.

there is an idler pulley that goes in it's place, it's an aluminum thing that takes the place of the AC compressor.

Pull the steering wheel. Depress the spring plate with the proper tool. remove horn plastic doo-dad. Unscrew turn signal assy. (pull turn signal arm out first) move assy out of the way, no need to unplug it. There should be one torx bolt that holds the cylinder in place, remove it and pull cylinder out. Reverse to put back together. It should really only take 10-15 minutes to do I really think you have a locked up switch at the bottom of the column though. I would take the switch loose and see if you can turn the key off then.

Check the wires from the switch on the turn signal arm, they break alot. Mine were broken there, grab the arm and push in and rotate it counter clockwise it should pop out, there will be 4 or 5 tiny wires there that have a real good chance at being broken.

Check with autozone and see if they do a loaner on that tool, i doubt it but it could save you big money

that is something that would be difficult to unstick with the head on the block. taking a rubber mallet and tapping on it with the rocker off could loosen the keeps and the spring would go flying. I have the equipment to air up the cylinder with compressed air and then I would use a valve spring compressor to take the spring off. Then i would soak the valve with some sort of carbon remover like seafoam and hook a battery operated drill to the valve stem and slowly rotate the valve with the drill and work it up and down. (take the air pressure off the valve once the drill has been hooked up). Once it was loose fill the cylinder with air and unhook the drill and re-assemble the spring and rocker arm. Then i would run a can of seafoam in the oil and drive it. Honestly it would prob be in your best interest to have a certified mechanic handle it.

Take the fan belt off and check the water pump, my brothers did this a few weeks ago and he thought the motor was coming apart, after you take the belt off see if the water pump hub can be wobbled by hand. The water pump knock can be deceiving as it sends the sound thru the engine. If it is a trans problem it is prob the flex plate has cracked, i am not sure of this being a problem with Jeeps but i know some GM's had this problem.

first off since you can take the pushrod out, do so and roll it across a known flat surface like a pane of glass, if it has any wobble in it it will need replaced. Also look at another rocker arm that you can twirl the pushrod with your finger showing it is on the closed valve orientation. compare the height of the spring with that one with the one that is loose, that should tell you if you have a stuck valve on the one giving you the problem.

Mine never worked right, i just unplugged it and got a magnetic L.E.D. flashlight from Sears that has a magnetic base on it.

Sounds like a power supply problem, the headlight switch sounds like it is somehow backfeeding voltage to the vehicle when it's on. I do not know anything about that year/engine combination. I would start by checking your voltages coming into the fuse box with the lights off then turn them on and see if the voltage comes up on the fuses.

Did you clean out the chamber where the IAC sits? I took my throttle plate off and cleaned all the crap out of it and the idle smoothed out alot. I have never experienced your problem though and am not sure if your TPS is adjustable or not. My manual is at my shop so I can't give you voltage specs on the TPS. I noticed you live pretty close to me (I am in Columbus) and I have an Extra throttle plate that has all good electronics on it that I would be happy to let you have. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the gasket under the throttle plate as it could cause a problem.

check the map sensor

isn't that the line that goes to the brake booster? if it wasn't raining cats and dogs i would run out and look at mine

get a bottoming tap the size of the factory bolt and run use it to "chase" repair the threads

is your oil pressure ok? If it is then it sounds like you have a lifter failing by not pumping up. Try and throw a can of seafoam engine treatment in the crankcase and see if it goes away.

helicoils work fine, better than factory threads, just make sure after you tap it out to crank the motor for a bit to blow out the shavings

advance it one tooth and try it, sounds like it's a tooth off

If I am not mistaken, the electric fan should only come on with the A/C on

check for leaves and random crapola stuck between the radiator and ac condenser, mine had a ton o crap there that made it run hotter than it should