Chico

First off, I'm already pissed off at the movie. The sign on his upper right arm is NOT SUPPOSE TO BE THERE! that should be hidden on his inner forearm, covered so no one can see it. Man is the master and Storm Shadow going to get pissed off. Second Sgt. Slaughter isn't even a real GI Joe. Please don't ask me to elaborate or I'm actually gonna have to dust off the comic collection and reread every friggin issue to remember why I'm saying this :rotfl2:

Let's just say I blow the whole engine because I'm driving the truck 75 MPH for 10 hours straight and it's never seen more than 20 miles straight at a time while I've owned it. I GOTTA DRIVE 612 MILES EACH WAY. I break down right outside the badlands. I would not try to replace my engine on the shoulder of the highway and I don't think AAA covers more than 100 miles even if ya got the plus membership. So unless Wade or Pat throws an extra 4.0 in the back of their bed, I would probably just drop it off at the local yahoo so he could rip me off. NOT. Hence the trailer from PA to the badlands just to be safe. Now, when I finally get around to dropping a remanufactured engine in the son o gun. I'll drive from South Beach in Miami to Portland, no worries. But not with my engine that has 200 some thousand miles and was not takin care of for the last 20 years. Plus with my luck I'd bring 223 differnt tools with me and the only one i would need wouldn't be in the tool box :eek:

I would trailer it. Especially since your taking your kid. Always better to be safe than sorry. As for my situation I'm still gettin 10 mpg. One of these days I'll post up a project section on every thing I've replaced on my truck and what I still have to get done. I would also trailer it just in case just to be safe, but don't have anything to tow with or a trailer so I'd probably rent something adding to my bill. Remember I'll be on the road 10 to twelve hours each way which means 3 meals times 3 to 4 days. Restaurants are expensive nowadays. I should know I own one. $200 bucks includes tent fees and hotel rooms in case we need to stop for some reason. I forgot, someone will probably come with me. And I'd love to have a daily driver that I can take off road when I want, but because of work I don't have the luxury of breaking down somewhere in flat but Ohio, waiting for a tow truck, having him rip me off and then trying to find a mechanic that will rip me off and probably not even know what a Comanche is. But, just to be optimistic, I will do my darndest to get in gear and somehow get everything done by July to make it. Everybody else, GOOD LUCK & HAPPY HUNTING!

Can't go this year. I just figured out the math. 612 miles from my house with the MJ getting 10 MPG is about 61 gallons of gas at 3.25 equals $200 times two ways, equals $400 plus $200 on fees and lodging plus $180 on food, plus $20 on rum plus who know what else? (Are there any casinos or strip joints on the way? :D ) Brings my grand total to about $1000 :eek: not counting any parts I break along the way or wheeling. I should probably spend that on the lift anyways this year. BUUUT, if you guys are still around next year, I should be ready and will definately see you there :thumbsup: Hey, to all going. Good luck, have fun, and may the force be wit ya!!!!

Sorry, but you are wrong. The back of the title form is a legal transfer of ownership document. Once the name of a buyer is filled in and the seller signs and dates it, that is a legal document that says ownership has been transferred to the person listed as the buyer. (In this case, the aforementioned "moron," although in this case he's really not a moron because he didn't do anything wrong.) The fact that the transfer of ownership has not been recorded at the DMV does not make it invalid, "wrong," or nonexistent. Let's say the original owner (the "seller" on the title form) were to show up at the moron's house and try to take the MJ back. The moron calls the cops. The cops say "Who owns the vehicle?" The seller says "I do." The moron shows them the title form, dated 8 months ago, with the seller's signature that he sold the truck to the moron. Who do you think the cops are going to say owns the truck? I think Brg lives in PA ,where I'm not sure but I believe you have to get it notarized or it doesn't mean squat. That might mean that the "moron" would get screwed in PA unless it was notarized. Maybe that's why BRG thinks that . :dunno: Edit:sorry didnt read the rest of the post. :oops:

My interior harness is outta a cherokee of the same year. It has the harnesses for the lights. I think the comanches also have the harness but not sure. Jt got me the lights outta a junkyard that I think he got out of a cherokee.

Thanks Horny, I'll try it 2morrow

BUyiTBuYITBUYitItbUyBUYit. Ifyoubuyittheywillcome

If you have a center console you can cut it so it tucks under, around the seat mount down the middle. You and cut the rear so it removes also. I did this with my XJ and it worked great. There is some good heat shields out there aftermarket, search and find exactly what you need. Some mount outside and others inside. Dynomat is great for sound. Ya I think when I go to restore my interior I'll POR 15 the inside. Then Dynamat it. Then lay vinyl over that with some kind of drain so I can hose off the inside. And finally I'm just gonna pay some one to make me custom carpet that is removable in sections and made of space age fibers that can be hosed down or just thrown in the laundrymat washers. And on top of all of it I'm going to Wally-world and picking up a pair of floormats with either the Tazmanian devil, yosemite sam, or the outline of that chick you see on trucker's mud flaps. All in all I'll end up spending more on the dang floor than I did on the truck :rotfl2:

Well considering the fact that the only thing I had ever done to a car before this little escapade we call a Comanche was change the oil and tires, in August of 2007 I would have told you exasperating and extremely difficult. It only took me 106 hours with no directions and a screwdriver and vicegrips for tools. However with basic mechanical skills, a magic marker and some masking tape I think the job would really only take 4-6 hours to do the WHOLE harness inside and out. The only differnce between the two is a plug that goes to the taillights and fuel pump is differnt and you have to cut, splice and figure out what goes where. I couldn't tell you for sure though because my whole harness caught on fire and melted together into one big gooey clump. In other words, find an MJ one. It will be easier :D

You just don't understand how the courtesy lights work. The door switch isn't a switched power lead, it's a switched ground. The wire(s) to the interior lights are always hot, and opening the door just closes the ground leg to complete the circuit. Ok, I undertand the concept now. My question is now this. I have three wires coming out of the harness. One is pink. One is black. One is black/white tracer. When I put a test light to any of the three wires with the key off or on but the MJ off I get no power at any of them. It doesn't matter if I turn the headlight switch cw or ccw or if I open or close the door. However if I start the truck, all of a sudden I get power to my black wire which I believe is the ground. At this point I connect my two wire light bulb. One wire goes to the black wire (ground which has power :nuts:) and the other wire goes to either of the other wires (pink or black/white tracer) and my light bulb turns on. However it never shuts off, even if I turn my headlight switch or close the door. The headlight switch and door switches work because I can control my underdash lights just fine. I just want to be able to turn my interior lights on and off with my headlight switch like I do with my underdash lights. WHAT AM I MESSING UP?

I like the idea of vinyl floor for clean up purposes. Has anybody ever thought of getting carpet like Wranglers have that are removable, washable and come in seperate parts. I think if someone came up with that kit for our trucks that would be the B.O.M.B

Poyfectly man, gracias. I told you on the bicker post the other night but you must have missed it. By the way did you ever get the money cause for some reason I have an xtra $10 in my account I think.

Well it's no nothing volts at the yellow wire which I don't have. So I suppose your yellow is my black/white tracer which is getting no volts anyway and neither is the pink. The wiring is JACKED. I'm running new wires tommorow. Thanks fer all the help guys :D

well, my black wire is hot, but only when the car is turned on. Obviously I jacked something when I replaced my harness with a cherokee one. It seems to be the only thing I messed up though. So I guess I'm gonna run new wires. Now should splice new wires from my under dash lights that work perfectly, or should I connect them to the fuse box somehow, or does anybody have a better idea?

Any electrical genius, I need help. How do I hook up interior lights that have two wires coming out, to the harness that has 3 wires on it. One wire is always hot on the harness. I'd like to be able to turn them on/off with the headlight switch knob. I tried last night. I can get em to light up but can't get em to turn off with either the headlight switch or the door switch. Oh by the way the hot wire on the harness is black, not the pink one. Is that supposed to be that way?

Man, I'm starvin. unos buenos pinche nachos would be fantastic right now.

Listen, if this doesn't work, just for craps and giggles, remove the rear shocks and test em. Mine wouldn't decompress and caused a shaking at highway speeds that wasnt DW but wasn't mild either. Changed the shocks and no more shaking.

Here's the firgures in order if ya need em.

Ignition System - Engine Bucking/Surging Models 1987-88 Comanche Wagoneer And Cherokee With 4.0L Engine Subject Engine Ignition Cross Fire Index DRIVEABILITY Date July 25, 1988 No. 18-53-88 P-2927 (C18-55) SYMPTOM/CONDITION Some 1987-88 Cherokee, Wagoneer and Comanche vehicles with the 4.0L engine may exhibit an engine ignition cross fire during vehicle operation. The ignition cross fire will normally occur as a harsh bucking or surging condition. NOTE: THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES DISTRIBUTOR INSTALLATION PROCEDURES IN I.S. NOTES 31E, 40E, 42E (M.R. 244) AND 21E, 34E, 36E (M.R. 277). DIAGNOSIS Road test the vehicle with the MS 1700 Diagnostic Tester in the "State Display" test mode. Observe the engine vacuum and record the vacuum reading when the cross fire condition occurs. An engine cross fire complaint will be repeatable at the vacuum range which was previously recorded regardless of engine vehicle speed. If a cross fire condition is diagnosed, proceed with the following repair procedure. PARTS REQUIRED Distributor Cap (1) PN 33004024 REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the coil wire and spark plug wires from the distributor cap. FIGURE 1 3. Remove the distributor cap (A) and cut a "window" © into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post (D). The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor (E) at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap. Figure 1 FIGURE 2 4. Install a wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt (F). Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark (G) on the vibration damper (H) with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post. Figure 2 FIGURE 3 5. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. 6. Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line (I) 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab (J). Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw. FIGURE 4 7. Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor. 8. If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft (B) until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore (N) in the engine block. Figure 4 FIGURE 5 9. Visually align the modified locating tab area (K) of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole (L). Figure 5 FIGURE 6 10. Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position. Figure 6 11. Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position. Figure 6 FIGURE 7 12. Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip(E) is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal (D). Figure 7 13. Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt. Tighten the holddown bolt to 9.5-14 ft.lbs. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved. 14. Install the new, distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections and the battery negative terminal. POLICY: Reimbursable under the provisions of the warranty. SRT/TIC INFORMATION: OPERATION OPERATION DESCRIPTION NUMBER TIME TIC FAILURE CODE CO. DISTRIBUTOR ADJUST - 0106 0.6 1717 4.0L CROSS FIRE 08-15-24-90 0.6 RO-DRIVEABILITY Copyright © 2008 ALLDATA LLC

Yes sir 18-53-88 sir http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V10369567~C27515~R0~OD~N/0/34870067/56416621/56416628/56418252/34853741/34850750/42063452/120832951

For the love of gawd man. Don't junk em. And if ya do give it to me. :D The mechanic told ya it's an ignition/timing problem. I think we just spent like 6 months W/ Tkgibbs on this same problem. Check your battery cables (especially the ground and add another), wires, plugs, distributer cap,and coil. Let us know how it goes :popcorn:

Go to the auto parts store and pick up the window cleaner that comes in a can. When you spray it , it foams up. Get the expensive one that says anti-fog. Then go to LOwes or Home Depot and they sell this stuff that that sucks the moisture outta your basement or crawlspace. Comes in a bucket, cost like five bucks and lasts 6-8 weeks.

Wow :eek: I never knew Pete was pat's dad. Man is oplsled gonna be pissed off when he finds out how much money he's lost in child support the last 20 years :rotfl2: Anyway, I don't think putting a bigger lift on would be dumb at all. If ya don't need or use 4wheel drive ,don't worry about it. I think 3" is a great looking height for a DD. But if yer gonna keep haulin heavy stuff I'd definately go with rear springs that have a better load rate. By the way your truck looks great :D

I'm just waiting for the FBI to come up with a new one before British intelligence finds me :rotfl2: