fiatslug87

...but I knew they had potential, just took a little time to find the right covers and a little elbow grease to clean them and prep/paint the seat frames and brackets. I feel so "green" :razz: recycling stuff that I know would just get crushed.

To remove the shift knobs: Automatic-Depress shift button and pull straight up Manual-loosen lock nut (clockwise), loosen knob (counterclockwise) See pics for console and battery.

Yes, they come in sealed beam versions (stock replacements) PN H6054ST. At Kragen http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=SYL&MfrPartNumber=H6054ST&PartType=301&PTSet=A

The Sylvania Silverstars are pretty good, about $20 each at most auto part stores.

What about hats? Last round there wasn't enough interest. How about now?

I found these seat covers at the JY last weekend, a perfect color match for my interior. They're out of a '92 XJ with 256,000 miles, I was shocked what great physical condition they were in. They were pretty dirty but I soaked them in 10% Oil Eater overnight, scrubbed the bad parts a little, rinsed them off really, really well and let them dry in last Sunday's 105° weather, now they look brand new. Finally got them back on my seats (BLHTAZ's old buckets) yesterday and took a snapshot. I also grabbed the matching door panels which I still have to clean. I'm very excited. :banana: That's my trusty helper in the back.

Very impressive!! Congrats :clapping: , I'm glad everything worked out well for us, I mean you. OK, now I need... :brows:

:thumbsup: And the '89 World Series MVP. LETS GO OAKLAND!!!!! Yeah, I know they're sucking this season.

Na, but I guess I'm in denial. I need one of those 12 step programs "Hello, my name is Mike and I am a Comancheholic". :teehee:

The other side looks like this, will it drive through the plastic?

How do I remove this little pin that secures the bucket seat tilt knob? By the way, I don't want to destroy the knob. Thanks.

Nope.

Just a little info on the EGR valve:

Good point, all I have are RENIX. I wish everyone would put their MJ specs in their question or better yet in their signature (like us Hornbrod). :D

Since the output voltage should be 83% of the input for the automatic TPS, I'd say you need a new one. Lucky for you the auto TPS are much less expensive than the manual ones. From the RENIX manual:

Thanks Sir Sam, I have a wall in the laundry room I need to pain, should just about cover it. My order number 247567 for one quart of GLC09 Tawny Birch is on its way!!! :banana: :banana:

Thanks Wildman, I couldn't remember which one, it's been a while since I had charging issues, so I went with the vague answer, damn old age! :fs1:

Start your MJ, pull one of the battery cables off the battery, if it dies you alternator is bad.

I knew you would turn to the DARK side someday. :clapping:

BLHTAZ kindly posted the '88 Electrical Manual http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734&hilit=electrical+manual

The parts manual calls them Secondary seals, PN 55005012 & 55005013 http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com says they've both been superseded by PN 55134514 http://www.teamcherokee.com/Weatherstrip/index.html also has them about half way down (Secondary Rain Molding Seal)

What year is your MJ? The 91-92 ones are based on different resistance, just ask jeepdoggydogB. :mad:

When I installed a hitch that uses the stock attachment points the bolts were listed as M10 x 1.5 x 45mm.

Here are what the stock fasteners that you labeled #3 in the diagram look like. The passenger and driver side (left and right in the picture, respectively) are different, the nut on the passenger side fits into the frame rail. Both bolts are Torx head.

That's just wrong, that hood only belongs on 'Cudas and Challengers. :no: