skidoo_j

Maybe I'm too young, but I don't remember 1989 being that military gun ho, seems like this would have been more appropriate for 1950's.

Nope. You'd have to find out what the width of the brackets are and decide if you're willing to modify one to fit. I'm sure you could go to any muffler hitch place and have them make one, or pick up a universal and make it fit.

Sorry, the time it took me I doubt i'll make another one again. I don't have a metal break so all of my pieces were cut and welded front and back. So there's alot of wire in there too.

Their DIY XJ info: http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=J&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=XJB&Product_Code=DIY-XJ-R My personal one, I built my own frame brackets and used box tube as a core tieing the brackets to each other and to the hitch, so I know mine would exceed any rating my vehicle could ever tow.

and at a sale price. I have to admit I like theirs, but I think mines better :)

prior posts re- manuals to download, always suggest saving and backing up as the host for the files may disappear anytime. http://comancheclub....6-fsm-location/

I doubt It will be worth it. My guess is when you press them out you'll damage them in some way and it won't be worth re-installing them or even if you get one out successfully when you go to press in to the new axle you'll damage it then just due to the fatigue of multiple pressings. The upper is going to be the biggest problem as you can't press on the stud to get it out if you plan to reuse it. They're not really designed to be pressed on anything beside the lip and the edge and IIRC there's not alot of ball joint exposed to press it out of the axle c. You'll have to go really slow, hope you used alot of grease when you installed them prior, probably end up using large deep sockets as press cups, and remember a big hammer will not help in this scenario. Depending on where you bought them, cough cough, press them out because they're broken and exchange, although some places charge you for the replacement now and then ship off the bad for a "review" of the failure.

maybe another option for you http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151205220808276&set=a.10150358624188276.372996.209865163275&type=1

the problem i ran into with my napa was they had ones that were 1/16" and 1/8" in thickness, the 1/8" ones were to thick for the the bolt to go through the flange. The 1/16" ones may have worked, but they were so thin in the groove that they were able to shift alot. There was enough movement i was afraid of the longevity of the thin oring.

OH and the oring set that both schucks and autozone list is a generic set of orings and none of them are even close to either of the other two o-rings.

Pulled the adapter today. Thank you Keyav8r for the PM for the info on the second o-ring next to the flange, but i found there are actually 3 orings. There is one that all the parts houses list, then the one under the large washer, but there's a third that is on the bolt. The 3rd one is what seals the oil to go through the filter. Anyone else do yourself a favor and order them from a dealership or a vendor that sells crown auto parts. They're actually metric o-rings and standard sizes will not work for the one on the shaft. I went to every auto parts place in my town and no one had anything that would work on the shaft. I lucked out and a hardware store carried metric o-rings and i got a 20mm-id 26mm-od 3mm width that will work for the shaft and a standard size from napa that will work under the flange. These are the other two oring factory part numbers for a 89 era 4.0l. They're like $0.70 each from my dealer, but they're closed and unsure if they have them on hand at time of realization there was a third o-ring. 3300 2970 1 .80" O-RING .799X.103 3300 2971 1 1.30" O-RING 1.296I.D.X.1

Got a one piece pan gasket and a two piece dual lip rear main seal. I also got the o-ring for the oil flange, but read that there's also a smaller one too, so I'm going to try and source it before i pull the flange.

Had to change the vacuum hose I used. Originally I used a 1/4" hose, but the idle was too high to the point where the stepper motor couldn't recover it, so i changed it out with 1/8" the factory rigid is in between the two in diameter, but is alot longer and has three bends, so i figure 1/8" maybe smaller, but probably same amount of flow. Very happy with the seal of the fel pro blue. The valve cover bolts are to be torqued to 55 in lbs, barely more then hand tight, although when removing the old cover it's very possible my leaking was cause by the back 3-4 bolts were so loose i could undo them with my fingers :( Hopeuflly My leak is resolved. I already have an o-ring for the oil adapter, rear man seal and oil pan gaskets sitting on the shelf waiting to go in. Off topic, but will i need a timing gasket if i'm dropping the oil pan and rear main seal? I plan to do this with out removing the tranny. although i could wait as i'm pretty sure my clutch slave is leaking and just do all at once

Got the painted valve cover installed. Replaced the final turn signal plug, the dash light finally stopped illuminating :).

Ended up taking in the valve cover to napa and getting generic pieces for the vent. A grommet and a plastic 1/2" 90. Napa parts 6301047 and 6301070. I swapped the vacuum line and vent line so my hoses were shorter. and cut my towers to a pseudo Cruiser mod. As mine already had a factory 1/2" hole compared to the '88 You can see the difference in height, I only removed 3/4" and maintained the same angle of the cut. You can see in the picture where the 89 had a factory drilled hole in the back vs the '88 sitting next to it for reference. I decided after aligning the cork gasket that I'd rather not screw with the cork and have to replace it in two oil changes so i picked up the felpro one piece blue one.

if only doing a 2" lift I'd suggest the WJ LCA's and grind them to fit. That way you can stay with stock wheels and put larger rubber on them with out rubbing. At 2" there should be enough adjustment at your frame connection to correct your caster. There is a reference chart in the diy forums "lift height vs control arm length" that gives you a ball park on how long each arm needs to be. If you already have aftermarket wheels with a negative offset (https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html) the wj control arms may not be worth the hassle. With a 2" lift, I'd say 31" tires with out trimming.

Do you know for sure that the factory wiring to the stereo isn't crossed? It's a very very common area to cause a back feed into the acc circuit.

If you replaced the ignition switch that's on the steering column under the dash try disconnecting your radio. Maybe you've got a short there that's back feeding your accessory circuit. If that doesn't work I'd start pulling relays one at a time to see if any of them have caused a cross in circuits.

The distances in the mounting bolts i think are different. The 96 has a different push rod, extended shaft, so I assume the diaphragm would not push on the 88 master correctly as the 88 is flush with the mounting flange lips. You can pick up a new 96 after market one for about 55 with a bleeder kit. The load sensing valve with a dual diaphragm booster may not be the best decision. I have read where peoples' vlvs have come apart with regular booster pressure due to age and condition. It just become sketchy with a 20+ year old part that has no rebuild kits, no replacement, are usually so rusty and corroded. Many people on here have removed them completely, see diy forums. Some have replaced them with manual adjusters, my personal preference.

In the process of replacing my valve cover on my 89 4.0 I'm locating and replacing the vacuum and vent rubbers and oil cap. The piece I'm trying to replace is the rubber elbow that connects to the 1/2" line on the air filter box. It's sold at napa as 7151367 which is a vacuum harness that has all these extra lines that I've already eliminated. What I've noticed though is all it is is a hollow rubber 90. I've read where people think there is some sort of valve flapper in the towers, well they're just baffles. in the 89/90 the "flapper" actually had a center support to prevent movement. 88 on left: When looking at the 95's options for this rubber 90 it appears to be just another rigid plastic 90 with a grommet, looking at the 99 same thing but they added an orifice that is restricting the vent size. So my ? Do either of these newer style add a check valve or are they just plastic 90 degree turn. I'm thinking i could replace them with a brass 90 (more readily available to me). Has anyone added a check valve in this location? All my other cars have PCV's.

Of course it's going to make a huge difference, It already shed half an ounce of dead weight :) My 89 barely has any blow by as it is, I'm doing this simply because my gasket is leaking and figured why not I had two spare covers. I don't know how I could/can quantify if this benefits on the flip if it causes problems I will be the first to bring mention of issues. Before I install my freshly painted cover I'm going to look to get new vacuum fittings and vent to make better seals.

Got my Valve cover all painted with some VHT . and cut my towers to a pseudo Cruiser mod. As mine already had a factory 1/2" hole compared to the '88 You can see the difference in height, I only removed 3/4" and maintained the same angle of the cut. You can see in the picture where the 89 had a factory drilled hole in the back vs the '88 sitting next to it for reference.

On the 4.0 during "start" the relay activates the fuel pump relays and powers the fuel pump. When not in "start" the the starter relay has no effect on the fuel pump, however the wire at the relay will still show power, hence why the relay has a diode or separate contact for the starter solenoid and fuel pump. I'm positive on this one. from the FSM : "ballast resistor" fuel pump control

The starter relay is used as a distribution point via the stud and fusible links. The alternator connect at the stud through a fusible link. There should be about an 8 gauge wire connected directly to the battery, all other connections at this point should be smaller size wire due to the fusible links. The starter motor power should be directly wired to the battery via 4 gauge wire. . The other wires that connect through the Spades are: Ground, ignition switch (start loc), to starter relay, and fuel pump. I don't recall if there is just a diode internally or if there are separate contact plates to prevent the fuel pump from back feeding and running the starter.

Oh meaning that the emergency line would connect after the manual valve. IIRC that's the stock setup. So pretty much I'd just want to replace the auto valve with a manual turn valve. I've been holding off as I'm watching for a dual vacuum booster on sale, and then I'll probably have to run new lines anyways.