Wildman

Yea.....I know what spring your talking about, I had this same problem on an '88, it's the return spring wound around the throttle arm. I should have an extra Throttle body around here, I'll look to see if it can be taken off, or if you need the complete throttle body. I'll look tomorrow, and Yes, I know, it's for a pre-1991, non-HO engine. Drop me a PM and we'll get this to you.

So your the winner of this ;) Congratulations :thumbsup: Good thing I was not home when the auction ended, other wise the price would have gone up :brows: But I'm glad it went to a good home Enjoy it, that a nice piece of art.

Rokhound.....I remenber that song ;) Anywho.....here's some pictures for you....and other's The top picture is a BA10, and use Pete's idea for the "wrench" And that is the T-case.....with instructions ;) I don't remenber how much ATF the T-case takes....2 qts or so, but when it comes out the fill hole.....you got it. The BA10 takes 4.5 pts for '87, and '88 -'89 take 4.9 pts. SAE 75W-90 I use a "suction gun" to fill both, put hose in can, pull back rod to load gun, put tube in fill hole, and push rod in and fill. Works best for me.

:nanner: Fun is what you have after you make your first Million :smart: My little 2 year degree has helped me that past 30 years thought

I think your last option it the best choice :D

I'll 2X the split replacement unit, much better that the non-opening rear window. But if anyone passes this way, I got a single glass rear window laying around. :brows:

Sounds like the MJ you have now ;) Look.....just be patient and what your looking for will come your way :D I'm looking for some axels right now, and passed up a couple of "buys" knowing that what I want will be found........as the projects wait :roll: The one you looked at, if the price was right, you should have grabed it for parts, and you know what other parts are good to keep.

I really don't think we have a 12 step program for your addiction ;) But Welcome to the Comanche Club :wavey: It sounds like you tryed all of the rest of the Jeep Models......and now you have the Best

Almost even money right now - Canadian Dollar 0.93179 to US dollar 1.07320 Worth 7 cents less that the US dollar So that D44 would cost US $139.50 What a deal.....grab it now. As long as it's not junk.

Eliminator89 - that would be Spencer97TJ (Spence) he just posted over on the PUB and his site is still up - http://www.jeepsticker.com/ If you sent him a PM......he will get back to you. And he is the only one doing the Decals that we need, that I know of.

Spence - Yea......I got busy with jobs after this posted, and I put off shipping the decal to you.......I have a slow week here, So I'll get this package out to you this week ;) I'm thinking you would have 3-4 pioneer decals sets right at the start, count me in for 2 sets ;) And check over on Tech, I think you have someone looking for you.

Eagle - Thanks for the update on the rear Porp'ing valve......Main reason to cut the non-working valve off to begin with ;) And you know that the line will alway blow out in some obscured location Eliminator89 - The rear brake lines are totally diffrent from the XJ. By hose, do you mean the soft line from the frame to the axel? That is also diffrent, and the swb and the lwb are two diffrent soft lines, I always replace with the swb line ( a little longer and $5 less) And with a rear lift, the Dakota soft line will work. All of the hard lines (steel lines) are 3/16" tubing, not 1/4" And to convert to the XJ front porp'ing valve check this out - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ting+valve A timeless topic ;)

JOMJ87 - :wavey: Good to see you back on the main land! :clapping: :USAflag:

The pumps are the same for MJ's and XJ's it's what was OEM eather a Bosch pump or a Walbro pump, you can tell the diffrence from the strainer. The whole sending unit with the pump is totally diffrent from the XJ. The other diffrents is the 2.5 or the 4.0, not the same pumps. Best to take the pump out first before ordering a new one.

If your rear Por'ing valve is still working, it's not a problem, fluid will just flow thru it. But first thing, jack up the rear and adjust the "self adjuster" in the rear shoe, this will solve alot a probems with the whole system. Just set them so the wheel "drags" alittle when you spin it by hand. Then start with the wheel furthest from the master cyl, the right rear, next the left rear, right front, and finish with the left front. I do the one man bleading way, using a 1/4" rubber hose, attached to the bleader and in to a bottle/jug with brake fluid in the jug, tube has to be in fluid, keeps air from sucking back into the system. Pop master cyl cover off, and leave off, open bleader, with hose on, into jug, pump 10 times, close bleader, move to next wheel and check fluid level in master, keep toped off, don't let the master get dry. And pump the brake petal all the way down, and all the way up, slow, with the motor off. And if all of your bleaders open with out a problem, in 15 minutes your done. Any fluid you pump out, do not reuse, toss it, Or keep it for the next time to keep the hose in fluid. And start with new fluid in the bottle to start if you need to. A clear soda bottle with a screw on top works good. And Happy :wrench:

I guest a CONGRATULATION to all the GRADUATES needs to go out. :smart: :wavey: :clapping: :thumbsup: Have Fun now.......next week will be the start of something NEW :teehee:

I though the cargo light was rare also, but 2 of the 3 '89 I have, have the cargo light, and I know of another '89 that had the cargo light.....So was '89 the big year for the cargo light option???

I'd hate to say it, but with 253K on the engine........I would check out the timing chain. Timing chains jump a tooth when there getting ready to go, when you shut the engine off, that's when they jump. The stoping of the engine "snaps" the chain. With the back firing and trying to suck air, and no power, it would be a good idea to check it out. Any timing chain I lost was from turning off the engine, and then re-start caused the same problems your having.

I like the title of your movie.....ah....er....Project ;) Kind of a catchy name :D

Renegade - I can see why you cut the wires now......makes sense. I would follow Eagle's advice on the sensor you need to replace, you can't go wrong with taking it to the dealer's part department and get the correct sensor that you need. The good news is you did not cut the knock sensor.......that little tiny sensor would run you $70 plus to replace :eek: Lesson learned......move on.

Dirty - I'm getting ready to chop up a rust bucket, I can send you the cab, I just bought a box of 9 x 12 envlopes, got a 100 of them, of corse you'll have to put the pieces back togetter ;)

If you have a 3/8" flare fitting on the gauge from Napa......that will not work. The right one has a 1/4 or 5/16" straight tread on it, and a "screw" end for the one wire to slip on......the part is AC Delco C1861 cool temp Indicator, switch. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 90&PTSet=A If you cut the wires off the wrong sensor, I hope you can repair it, as Eagle stated, it one of two important sensors that will change the performance of the engine. Big time. If you can not splice the wires back, you need to change the cut sensor out also. And why cut wires???? most all of the sensors have pull apart connectors with lock taps near the sensor, or up line. If your in doubt which sensor you "cut" take it to the parts store and have the guy look it up, and check it out on the counter.

Renegade - Check this out, bottom of the topic page, and Thank CWlongshot for the pictures ;) http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... nding+unit Temp gauge is a single wire, rear of the intake manifold, near the firewall, drivers side.

hornbrod - Nice link there - Thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

JohnQ - Looks the same, that should work. Try it and that will give us an additional part #. Jeepco - you could wire in a resistor like above to the feed line of the Ford pump, and it should work to quite down the pump motor when pressue is builted up, and load is not required.