Wildman

With your steering wheel moving that much.......the steering gear box is about shot too.

True. Until you cut one of the "frames" up, and see how it was made. 3 pieces of sheet metal, bent into a U, and spot welded together :eek:

:thumbsup:

First guest is the wires them self, you could have good clean connection at the battery, but the cables could be corroded inside the insulation, and you'll never see it. Check the engine ground connection, it's right near the oil dip stick. Check the body ground strap that's at the rear of the engine, off the firewall. Pull the plastic covering off the positive / ground wire, and check the wires for "lumps" There also is a fuseable links in the positive wire to the PDC.

Frame repairs can be done, but it also depends on how much damage has been done to begin with, you need to remember, these truck are a "Uni-body" Frame combo. Post up some pictures and that will help on how much damage has been done already. I have 2 MJ's here now that the frame damage is so bad, it's not worth repairing them, so there donors for some better units. Hate doing it on MJ's with less that 90K on the clock, but when a section of frame is not even there..........no other choice :(

The ballast resistor didn't come in the '87, it was "added" in the '88+, so the '88 FSM might not show it, the '89 FSM shows it.

lol. why give ya fair warning? I was thinking, maybe I should be coming back with another comanche in tow Hum..........Do I really need to explain that one :hmm: And yea.......what's the spec's your looking for.......I know a few MJ's around here :brows: But FYI..........The MJ's are very rusty around here :( PM me and I'll give ya my # so if you do hit WNY, give me a call :D

Ah, yea......if you end up in WNY......give us fair warning :roll: Other wise, take a 30 minute detour and check out Niagara Falls :D And any local pup (Bar around here) you'll find the best Beef-n-Wick and Wings :brows: That's something Micky D's don't have :teehee:

That what I was talking about......drilling out around the broken off screw :D What did you use to fill in the hole????

Oh......man.......you weren't to call the dealer on that part :no: Now you know the real price on the BA10 tranny mount :shake: Note to self.......that's what I paid for the last '91 MJ I bought........ Yea, Team Cherokee seam to be the only place that sell them at a "fair" price, and if you read there add, the have them "reproduced" so they can keep the price under a C note. Like I said before, some one might have a good one laying around, ask on the classifieds. And no Don........I'm not sleeping in the new chair.......Yet :D Getting there thought :roll:

:eek: I guest I did go to bed to early last night.......I missed all the excitement......again :oops: This is what JT and I have been seeing, this is what JT has been posting about the past couple months, and this is not the first time some "player" has come on board to sell his Rare '89 Sportruck, color red, like I don't have 3 of them now :shake: for $7,000 to some one that show interest in this Rare MJ. I seen the reply asking if the guy had some $300 tail lites, and got a good laugh over that one :rotf: The first thing I thought of when I seen the post.......some junk yard found the site :eek: If the guys legit........prove it, post on the pub, show us your collection, post pictures on the classified add and prove it......other wise, on one or two post and then the add he put up.......with no pictures..........if it's canceled and deleted......fine. I know not every one can post pictures, or know how, but if he's selling all these parts, lets see some pictures of the products, not just a phone number, and no prices :shake: He could be the guy that thinks a pair of tail lites is really worth $300 :rotf:

Yea, that's the BA10 tranny mount. Only open this link if you have a strong heart - http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html About 1/2 down the page. And there on sale until the end of March :D Oh......that was yesterday :hmm: I think the original price was around $110??? I don't have any extra good used ones right now, hopefully some else might have one for you, post a WTB in the classified section.

Knowing all what you tossed into this the past month........the only thing I can think of is the pressure regulator :hmm: Sounds like low pressure in the rail before the start, then getting a rush of pressure when it starts, and it dwindles down and stalls out. Hows the EGR valve??? still hooked up???.......take the vacuum line off it, and plug it, and see if that makes any difference on how it starts and dies......ah er.....runs.

Not trying to spend your money :roll: .......But....... Why mess with a 20 year old radiator????? New ones are under $100, yea, there are better ones out there for the $$$ From http://www.Rockauto.com PROLIANCE Part # 432268 {1 Row; Plastic Tank, Aluminum Core, 31"x11.125"x1.5" #78} $87.79 SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU78 {1 Row; Copper/Plastic #78} $92.79 With summer coming up......your MJ will thank you :D

Yup......done the dist cap screws :shake: The thing I've done, is grind the broke off screw flat, and drill it out and re-tap it......and installed a SS machine screw in place of the steel screw. I think it was a 10-32 screw I used. The rotted out header panel screws.........Cherokee and I played with this last year, found if you took a small drill bit, like a 3/64th, and drill like 3 holes around the busted screw, and punch out the rotted out screw, that worked the best, I used some Bondo to fill in the hole, and re-drill a pilot hole, and used SS screws in place of the old ones. I don't remember what Cherokee used to fill the holes, hope he jumps in here and reminds me :D

I know your going from a BA10 to the AW4, the cross member is the same, but the tranny mount is different, the mount you need is the common one for the AW4 and AX15, the smaller one, about $18 at the parts stores. Not the one with the large mounting pan, which you left here one day :roll: Also as MJeff pointed out, there is a front and rear to the cross member, spin the cross member end for end, and see how it lines up. If not........you know where there a few to dig thru to find one that will fit.

You are covering the cost......you have been........We're just offering "Donations" to up grade Your Fine Service :yes: Which reminds me.......I got to get my annual order of sticker in.....I'll PM you with the list later :roll: As far the what the OP stated........I've seen some more of the same thing this past week :fs1: Just join up, advertise some "stuff" and never be seen again :shake:

Everything I read on your step-by step seams correct. The only possibility is when you removed fluid from the master, you might have contaminated the fluid :hmm: Or.......the fluid got to low, and is sucked some air into the system. Also.......adjust the rear brakes before you start replacing any additional parts, the "self" adjuster are not self-adjusting :roll: and you will notice a big diffrence in the brakes with the rears also working properly. You also write ..... . at 90% "POP" and the e-brake light comes on. That's when your shuttling the by-pass in the differential valve, that's the popping noise you hear. After you bleed the lines, and if you need to "re-set" the by-pass valve, that's when you need to apply about 250 pounds of force to the brake pedal to re-set it. And......here's the procedure for bleeding the brakes with the hight proportioning valve in place, Posted by Mr. Eagle- (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4917&hilit=rear+brake+bleading) Quote: After bleeding the brake calipers and cylinders the rear brake by-pass line must also be bled. Open a front caliper bleed fitting and depress the brake pedal to the floor. This will shuttle the by-pass differential valve and allow fluid to flow through the by-pass line. The brake warning light on the instrument panel will illuminate when the ignition key is in the ON position. This signals the shuttling of the valve. Re-Bleed the rear brake cylinders with the front caliper bleed fitting open. After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again. Bleed the brake calipers and cylinders in the following sequence: 1st -- Right rear 2nd -- Left rear 3rd -- Right front 4th -- Left front

I reread your post and missed the E-brake light on......that also means you have low pressure in the brakes, in the master cylinder. Another sign that theres a leak, or the master is gone.

I'm just getting started back into the MJ parts.......after I get this one problem project squared away :headpop: But.......I've been still collecting parts (and MJ's)........and for you SW2......send me you addie, and I'll find one on it's way to ya, with that 10 pound bag of road salt, to treat your perfect floor :D

Yea...... By chance......is the master full?? If not, then you might have a leak some where, hard lines, soft line, wheel cylinder. Check out all the lines for a leak, and repair as needed. Then you need to bleed the brakes. If you heard a POP sound, you might have popped the equalizer, under the master. Bleed the brake lines, and the you need to apply about 250 pounds of force on the brake pedal to re-set the equalizer. And re-bleed the lines. At worst case.......your master cylinder went south on you :( If you pedal needs to be pumped up for the brakes to grab, that's a sure sign that the master is shot.

JT picked up a Chrome front clip and bumper for me last year in the local JY......we could never get a good price on shipping......so now I'm "forced" to drive 760 miles one way :roll: to pick it up and save on shipping. Of course......we have other plans with-in this trip.......like some rusty low mileage engines heading south of the Mason-Dixon line :D The Chrome clip will take care of one of my 'many' projects :yes:

I'm right here :D And I was trying to find the picture what the jack storage should look like :hmm: No findie :( But......I got the parts :D

If you completely empty, ya better check where it went :hmm: Bad seal, or leaking hose. And spring for the Power Steering fluid.

:help: I can't see.... 8) ahhhhh much better...... Hey.......why don't ya open that box up that you got waiting for me to pick up :yes: Unless you sold my Chrome :fs1: :teehee: