Wildman

This past Saturday, I had the (mis)fortune to 'help' someone with a '87 XJ. No start, no power, So, this is the first thing I notice- Leading to investigate further - Which turns out to cause this - Sorry for the fuzzy picture :oops: Yes, that's a fried out resistor in the ECU :eek: Look from the back side - So........Bad battery cables (22 years old) lead to the ECU getting fried. Replaced the ECU, and new cables, had power, but no starter, so a 'used' starter relay and it was cranking :D Still no start :fs1: And no spark :hmm: Guy claimed his brother installed a new CPS, So yesterday, we jacked it up, dropped the tranny down, and pulled the CPS that only had one bottom screw in it, and found this - Yea, that's the end of the CPS broken off :eek: The one on the left, new one on the right. New CPS, and we had spark :D But, still no start :hmm: So, we reset the distributor that the "new" tech school grad pulled out, to change the slater, and found the dizzy was way off.........set it, no start........but then the back fire :eek: I had the dizzy 180* off :teehee: Reset it again, had spark, had fuel........wait........truck sat for 6 months while they change just about every other little part on this thing..........Drained the 6 month old gas :roll: Changed the fuel filter, dumped in 2 gallons of fresh gas, had crank........and.......Start :banana: Moral of the story.........CPS went south, new one not install proper, in the meanwhile battery cables took out the ECU, New tech grad's don't know Renix systems (guest they don't teach than any more :hmm: ) Oh.......and fresh gas does help. XJ back on the road (well, it needs a couple finish touches) and owners happy (so is his wife) :yes: Now to get back to my own projects :roll:

Or....... http://www.classictube.com/index.asp But there on line shopping is being rebuilt now :fs1: You can call them. They carry brake lines, fuel line, and tranny line for the XJ, which all of the front lines are the same as the MJ. You said, you broke off the fuel line to the throttle body :hmm: Is this for a 2.5 engine???

Ya know, I generally stay out of discussions like this.........But.....That video has to be the most stupid jackass thing I've ever seen :shake: The moron rednecks having fun trying to "destroy" an engine that way.......... :shake: I only hope that the EPA also finds it almost as amusing as the hoe making the video. Yea, a couple of the other videos are just as bad. I think you senator's should have really thought about what they were voting on, not thinking that there ping tax money away, well, back into the dealer ships, that more or less, the government "owns" now anyway. Did they think that the "trade in" could be used for other agency's, you know, like give your car to the Kidney foundation, for a tax credit, and let the agency sell /scrap it :hmm: Every one I know, or talk to, think this is a big joke, I was at the JY today, and I've know this guy for alot of years, there offering the dealers $150 a scraper, to their yard. Like they said, most of the value of the thing is gone with the engine destroyed. They will pick some parts off, and crush the rest. The thing is........people that are in the market for a new car, it's a great deal, people that really don't need or can afford a "new" car......... :shake: Bet ya, in 6 months, the re-po business will be booming :D And the dealers will be crying for something else to keep afloat. I'm done

This is the book I have - From looking thru it, it's mostly Comanche (60 Series) but, it also shows connector configurations and locations for the XJ........IE: C311: Liftgate to liftgate (ground) / In LH side of liftgate.........well we know the MJ don't have a liftgate :hmm: This book is very detailed, how close to the '89 :dunno: I don't think there is too much change from '88 -'89........Oh, yea, the C101 connector was omitted. Would that have a major affect for what your doing?? Find out what your other deal is, I have no problem "loaning" you this book, there is no way I'm going to scan this whole book. I know where you live, so if you want to borrow it, I know I will not need/use it in the near future, But, I do want to hang on to it in the future, and if you want to copy pages that you want to keep, that's up to you.

No, I don't have any left handed taps or dies........got some left handed drill bits ;) I wonder if you need to use left handed drill bits for the left handed taps :hmm: The easy fix........would be to cut what you have in half, and weld in the "extension" to what OA length you need :D (Or shorten) I have one good RPV that I bought from a member here on the shelf, If your decides to puke out, let me know.......or do you want to hang on to it???? I don't think I'll ever use it. It's not plated thought :(

I just looked, and I have the '87 and the '88 Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals. And their both 60 Series manuals. Would the '88 be of any help?? I don't have a "electronic" copy of it, I got the book itself, it's kind of massive with fold out pages and 102 pages. Is there a section that you were looking for, where I could scan a couple pages and PM them to you :dunno:

Man, I'm glad you cleared that up...........Queen's is 500 miles from me.........yea, I was getting a little nerviest there when you said NY and left the C of the end........like in NYC, that a different state from us :D Yes, I've meet you a couple of times, and No, I don't think I've pissed you off, and no, I would not want to see you pissed off :D Well.......the best thing is to have a 'man-to-man' talk with the "father" and see what he wants to do, then you can decide how to handle him, ether welcome him, or slap the snot out of him. Ether way, you need to make you daughter happy, which way she wants to handle this.

Don, I thought you wanted to keep the rear proportioning valve :hmm: I know it just don't fit in, but you can send it to this company and have the thing "fit" in with the rest of your MJ :D

You swapped the rear harness from the '94?? Check where the body ground is in the rear, that could be your problem. Also check the body/engine ground.

The EGR valve was deleted in '93 or '94. From your pictures, it looks like someone make a deletion plate for where the EGR would have been. The only way to be sure, pull the air boot off the TB, 3 bolts = Renix. 4 bolts = HO.

From what your describing, it almost sounds like its leaking "up" from the rockers. There is a hole in the back corner of the cab, behind the speakers, that drops down into the back side of the rockers, the very back corner of the cab, it might be worth while to craw under the cab and check the back corner, and the back side of the rockers. If you find water back there, and you drive in the rain, hit standing water, it could be forced up from the wheels. Yes, there is a seam about 6-7 inches in from the cab corner, you should be able to see the outside of the seam from the bottom side of the truck, the box don't drop all the way to the frame in that section and the lower rear section of the cab is exposed from underneath.

'94 = Chrysler '89 = Renix era (AMC) Unless you replaced the rear harness with the newer one, there could be a crossed wire in the connector, you really need to check the FSM's from both, and cross check, wire color (termination) and terminal location. The dimer switch in on the steering column, left upper side, just behind the knee panel, the switch could be shot, or you might need to change over the dimmer switch. I'll get this wrong., I think.......but Chrysler went to a Positive ground system, were Renix is a negative ground system.......or did I get that backwards again :hmm: Anywho, all the switches need to be change over to which era you want to end up with.

You just took off a junk one, why get another one??? Some parts, like this, your way ahead getting new, plus some of the JY charge almost as much for a use one as the price for a new manifold. e-bay or http://WWW.rockauto.com

Cup holder, or beer cooler :D Never seen a column shift with a center counsel, don't think they even exist :hmm: But, who saids you can't be creative :brows: I think I've seen a picture where someone use the space to install a tranny electric shift switches.

This will give you an idea on whats involved - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 With having the donor vehicle within arms length, it's a much easier swap, just for the little odds and ends that you might need.

Here's a few links on the brakes - and you'll find more general info here - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15904 Brakes - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13434 http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm And for your tranny replacement - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 For your uni-body / frame repairs, you'll want to get at least 1/8" plate, or angle, stay away from repairing the 3 layers of sheet metal "frame" with more sheet metal. And Welcome to the CC :wavey:

Ya never know, it don't take much to knock off a vacuum line. Another thing, you didn't mention any thing about checking the fuel pressure. Do that first before jumping on any more parts. Also with almost 200K, check the fuel pressure regulator, that runs off vacuum, and if that fouls up, it would cause a "skip" in fuel pressure. Have you changed the fuel filter in the pass?? http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fue ... ostics.htm http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... manual.pdf

You better specify where in NY.......... .......I don't know not-thing....... :dunno: :shake:

I'll agree with CRF136N, it's fixable :D Last year I took a OEM bumper all apart and straighten it out, took out the little dings and divots, and re-enforced the center section, the bumper it's self in only 12 ga steel. A little heat, and a lot of banging, and you good as new :D here's picts =

:thumbsup: That's the one your brought up in another topic, that's the picture(s) :D I looked again last night, but after a half hour+, I only got back to 11/07 :ack: Nice find :D

you said this started after you changed the oil :hmm: It's possible that you knocked a vacuum hose off. You know the propane torch trick??? run a unlit torch around the vacuum hoses and fittings, and if the engine races, thats where you vacuum leak is. Also, find the vacuum line to the EGR valve, and disconnect it and plug the hose, see it that makes any difference on how the engine is running. Post what year, engine and tranny you have, and mileage on the clock too.

I'll agree with the Mystery Oil, last oil change, I dumped a quart in the engine, and that tic-tic-tic lifter disappeared :eek: Where it went is a "mystery" :dunno: Took the MJ on a 300 mile trip, and it ran great, 5 days later I was on a 650 road trip, and it ran even better :D and first time Ive pulled 22 mpg on it :yes: The only problem with adding any thing to your engine, like something that will dissolve deposits, is if the engine has a lot of miles, and you haven't changed out any seal/gaskets, you will find the leaks.......real fast.

Only 2 of the wires are used for the back up lites. Terminal A - 18 Black/yellow tracer (feed) and Terminal B 18 Brown (sw). Terminal C and D are not used on the manual, and are just a 'carry' over in the harness from the gauge fuse. It's confusing because of the voltage present at the connector. You could tap into the connector for some under body glow lights :D The Up-shift lite is controlled by the ECU, motoring the engines RPM's. I like when it comes on doing 70+mph and I ain't got no more gears :hmm:

OK........ Most of the unibody/frame rot that I've come across is in the front section, under the cab, to the front leaf mounts. Ive never really seen too much rot on the rear section of the frame. Take Mr. Hornbrod's info and see what you can come up with. The MJ thats in the process of being 'recycled' is a LWB. Either check out your local JY or let me know, and I'll cut the rear section off the frame. I should be back on cleaning this one up in the next few weeks.

Do you need the front leaf mounts??? I can chop them from a rotted out MJ I got, but.......you might be better off making some spring mounts from the plates your going to be using to repair your frame, and tie them together.