Wildman

:agree: Mr. Geonovast is spot on with this :thumbsup: The one piece oil pan gasket is meant to replace the 4 piece OEM gasket, and one of the the 4 pieces is the timing cover bottom piece. Just some RTV mainly in the "corners" is all thats needed. Don't understand the water pump / oil pan connection :hmm: Maybe the translation from Chinese to English got a little mixed up :dunno:

I picked up an XJ for a friend from a repair shop for $200 because it wouldn't start. They told me they tested sensors, tried ether, nothing worked. $5, trip to the gas station, and 30 seconds cranking later, she fired right up. Drove it off their parking lot, but they told me price before I "fixed" it. Couldn't even say faulty gauge. It read below E. Big one too. Yea.......K.I.S.S. :rotf:

:doh: Your right......I got stupid timing chain on my mind from other topics :nuts: OK, I rethought this.......it ran for 4-5 minutes.........right. It is getting fuel to the One injector???? Is a line pinched??? Plugged fuel filter??? Check the fuel pump relay???? Fuel tank vapor locked???

I was only kidding about the name, I got it :teehee: And I know the coil will give him quite the 'shock', but to do away with him...... :dunno: OK.......if you have spark at the plug, that rules out the CPS. Timing chains go when you shut off the engine, and the "sudden" stop of the engine, "Pops" the chain, that's why I bring that up. Is there gas in the tank...... :roll: No kidding, like is the fluid level on "E" and it's parked on an incline??? Back to the basics........you need air, fuel, and spark for the engine to run. Right. Assuming you have air, that's if Dweeb didn't use it all up....... :roll: You say you have spark. Is it getting fuel??? Pump relay?? Fuel pump??? Can Dweeb check the Test Port??? Just for S&G, someone didn't stick a potato in the tail pipe, did they. :teehee:

To answer one of your questions...........Yes, the '94 has a CPS. And that would be my first guest. If Dweeb (and thats an odd name :hmm: ) can find the connector, unplug it and plug it back in, would be the first thing to try. But, you said it has fire, but spark at the plugs??? Or did I read that wrong. The 4.0 don't have a real bad history on the timing chain slipping/skipping or braking........But they can. And in most cases, it will fire up, and run really bad with a skipped timing chain. Humm...........you plan on packing a lunch for your road trip???? Oh, and what's the story about the bucket of water :roll: You can PM me the answer ;)

:eek: Guest you better open it back up and see what happen. Did you install a new timing chain and slack adjuster on it????

Dayem, this is an MJ forum; the Pub is the Pub, but not a free license to post this crap if it's not even remotely MJ related. There are many other better suited forums in which you can post forever your views and get arguments pro/con ad nauseum, bring it there. Kill this thing please mods. :cheers: :agree: :shake:

:agree: That bar is the 'parking brake strut', it keeps the shoes in place when the parking brake is applied, you do need it. Here a link for everything you ever want to know about the rear brakes on the MJ's and XJ's - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm

:smart: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... Basics.htm

then i'd leave the chain alone to, i would never replace the chain without the sprockets, those sprockets wore to that chain. and they have just as many miles as that chain. replacing the chain only is just taking care of half the wear, but then changes how the new and old parts wear together. and after that, if you wanna replace the sprockets later to do it right, now you have a chain that broke in with old sprockets. if that motor isn't staying in long that chain has some miles left on it. i only like to do things once though, so i still say replace it as a kit, or leave it and run it. timing chain and sprockets are not as precise as some other gears, but i'd still do it all right once. that chain isn't gonna break anytime soon. if that motor was a keeper then it would be different, if its not a keeper as is, and you're low on money skip it all together. just one man's opinion :smart: or :nuts: who knows No, you don't stand alone on that, I'll 2X that opinion :D

Thats the only kind I have. :shake: :rotf: The Riddlin must be working :jump: :teehee:

Yea, I know :roll: Well.......The Buffalo Bills do hold the record for the super bowl.........enter it 4 years in a row :D (just never came home with the prize :shake: )

Yep, any vehicle parked on the ground will rot right out, parked over stone, not a problem, but the Metal sucks up the moister from the ground, and just rots 10x's faster. I too have a couple of them that were parked that way, and it shows :shake: If you get that manual, it will be a great help to you, I got one a couple years ago, and that's what made up my mind that the uni-frame replacement was not for me. There are only about 2,000 spot welds on the stupid thing :doh: Oh........BTW.......Welcome to the CC :waving:

Yeah Bob. They looked great and dominated the game - up until the last four minutes. Then Brady woke up and threw two touchdown passes in a 1:16 span late in the fourth quarter. But Trent Edwards had a great game for the Bills, no fault of his. What's that now. 12 straight Pat wins over the Bills? :yes: It wasn't so much Brady waking up as it was the fumbled kickoff still up by 5 with 2 minutes to go. The way the Bills moved the ball on them, they had a more than likely chance to pick up a couple of first downs and win the game. I hate the Pats. :dunno: Yea, I seen the low-lights on the news, It's a another, Almost win :rotfl2: I stopped watching the Bill's after the '94 super bowl :doh: 4 years straight and no cigar :shake:

The Bill's played tonight????? :hmm: Must have missed that..........I'll see the low-lights on the news :roll:

Actually maybe not.... read the story again... the state forestry service repo'ed a truck already.. bet the rest aren't in too good of shape... :doh: Missed that. Well.......I guest they'll just all be watching then :rotf:

You got almost as many Jeeps as I have :eek: But I only "collect" MJ's and XJ's :yes: I understand what your asking, and is it doable........Yea, lots of work, but it can be done. I got a '88 Olympic last year that had the same frame condition your asking about, the right side U-channel Uni-frame was completely gone, not even a section of it left, so, I hate to says, it turn into a organ donor for several other MJ's. If you can find the Workshop manual M.R.278 (Bodywork) it shows the complete body construction of the Comanche, that manual shows up on e-bay often. That book will get you into how the frame/uni-body was built, all the spot welds, and how each component was connected. I would think that a U-channel 3/16" X 4 or 5" would be useful for a frame re-construction. The original frame was built from 3 layers of 12 or 14 ga sheet metal. Best of luck to ya trying to save a '91.

Yea, when I read your update on the flywheel, I thought the same as Eagle, But, I think you put that to rest, using your old flywheel. here's the test for the stator - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm I'm still thinking your not putting any voltage out of the coil, and that should be tested. OK, you write the old engine ran, the replacement engine ran (I wouldn't call a replacement engine "new") So, in the words of the famous JTDesigns.........K.I.S.S. There has to be something simple that got over looked, didn't get hooked up, I know, you checked everything 3 times. OK......I'm going to toss out something really off the wall here........Take the ECU out, yea, I know it's a pain, open it up, and check the circuit board, look for any "burnt" resistors or any odd looking solder trails, in other words, take a close look at the board, it's a remote possibility that you might have damaged the circuit board buy shorting out the positive lead :dunno: To answer your other question.........Yes, there are several of us following your topic, but, we're not all on here 24/7, we have day jobs to support our "hobby" and also spent time :wrench:

:thumbsup: Just been sitting back, following your saga :popcorn:

Yea, I seen this story a couple weeks ago, did not see the follow up........ :eek: Thanks for the update. Well.......if by chance, one of the officers house were on fire, you know who will be standing out in the street laughing (standing next to a big red truck :roll: )

On the right shock tower, front to rear, Fuel pump relay, O2 sensor preheat, B+ latch relay, and if you have AC, the 4th relay will be for the AC pump. No guru here, still learning the Renix system :wall:

There is NO timing to set, that's done with the ECU. The Distributer needs to be set, at #1 post, and #1 cyl at TDC on the compression stroke. Even if you had the dizzy off, you should still get spark, just not running, or running rough, and possibility backfiring. Check the coil pack to see if your even getting voltage out.

I've used a lot of the "Pro" series Galvanizing Compound, and had no problems, not the primer that you used. It is kind of "loose" you just need to apply several thin coats. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp ... id=7585838 One gas tank I did 3 years ago, and it's still holding up great. Used it on alot on other items, and it's great for exhaust pipes (to seal the welds) :brows:

I just pulled a pair of vent windows in the JY today :D A XJ gave them up. Took me 10 minuets to get them out, and one had the power window rolled up, but I got it down :brows: Remove the 2 door edge screws, crank the window all the way down, pull the door arm rest, if you have hockey stick style, swing them up 90* and the top will pop right off, pull the window crank, and the 3 screws for the door release handle, pop the door panel off, lift up on the rear, and pull to the rear, work the door release around the cut out. The plastic sheet, you can just pull it up from the bottom. There is a bolt inside the door, near the window crank shaft, yes, it takes 10mm. Pull the glass wipes out of the door edge, and pull the top of the wing window towards the rear, and the pull the rest of the "track" up and inside of the door, and that's it.

You could check the ohm's reading from the connector in the engine bay first, to see if the CPS is within range. Here's the link to all the Renix sensors - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Most common sensor that will "kill" the spark is the CPS. 2X's on checking for pinched wires. Check the grounds, battery to block, block to firewall, one loose, or corroded can cause all kinds of problems. Also, check the ground at the ECU. The relays on the shock tower (front to rear) Fuel pump, Ox2 sensor heat relay, B+latch relay (AC clutch - 4th if you have) If your 2nd relay is "clicking" check to see if the Ox2 sensor is hooked up, or check for a bad relay.