Eagle_SX4

The engine date code is on the passenger side of the block in front of the distributor. If your block is a 91-95 block there should be a plug in the hole for the Renix temp sensor. There was on my 91 block. If it is a newer block there may not be a port for the sensor. Then you will need to trace your wires and find where the previous owner put the sensor.

Renix era 4.0's have 3 separate temp sensors. The one in the radiator is the e-fan control switch. The one at the back of the cylinder head is for the gauge on the dash. It could be a switch for the dummy light or a sensor for the temp gauge. The one under the intake manifold towards the front of the engine is the one the ECU and the REM use for engine temp. This is the one your are looking for.

I ordered SKF bearings to rebuild the hubs in my Eagle. I opened the box and was surprised to see Timken bearings inside.

Those dorman numbers are for the 4.0. Your signature says you have a 2.5. I don't know what the vacuum harness setup is for the 2.5, maybe @eaglescout526 knows?

I wonder if your truck has been in an accident and the the person driving pushed the steering column through the firewall when it was crashed. Take a pic of the engine bay side of the bottom of the steering column. See if the firewall is pushed outward from the cab.

I mistyped, I did mean the striker on the door jam would need to be replaced with the newer style which is not a bolt on replacement and requires some fab work to get it installed. A pre 96 door would be the easiest solution to replacing a messed up door. I had to space the +97 regulator away from the internal door skin to get it aligned correctly. Which means if you went the other way it would mean you would have to cut and weld the inner door skin or regulator to get it in the correct place.

If you want manual windows. You will need to source some manual regulators from +97 Cherokee. The '87 regulators won't work with the '01 windows If you are going to use the '01 doors you will need to change latch on the cab to the newer style, which usually involves cutting and welding.

If you leave the EGR tube you will have an exhaust leak. You need to pull the pipe and install a plug in the exhaust manifold.

I put the large windows in my '87 doors so it should be possible to go the other way. There are lots of little things that need to happen to get them to work properly. Save your self the trouble and keep the large windows in the 2001 doors.

This might help.

The foam can be cut and removed to make any repairs needed then reinstalled with no noticeable effects. Just run the knife along the rails from the back and push the foam out through the front. I did it on my 87 seat when the top rail broke in half.

@trick34 hasn't logged on since 2020 but looking at the pic below looks like the bump stops were cut off.

Cool to see more sheet metal from key parts for our vehicles. But with how many Cherokees are in the junkyards around me it is not worth doing the skin. A whole door is between $60 and $100, and if your lucky you don't have to paint it.

There are a few different versions of the 4.0 valve cover and there are differences between what model it is from (Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, or Wrangler) but any 4.0 valve cover will bolt on to any 4.0 engine. You will just have to change the breather/CCV hoses to fit the valve cover you choose.

I thought I had some serious blowby on the 4.0 in my Eagle but turns out I didn't have vacuum on the rear orifice. My air filter has been dry since I fixed that issue. Check to make sure you have vacuum through the rear orifice they like to get clogged with sludge.

It is held on with double sided tape.

I added a cover for my fuse box so that when the master drips it diverts the fluid around it.

I wet sand with some sandpaper 1500-3000 grit. Then some buffing compound, I use Meguiar's Plastx with a cotton buffing wheel on a hand drill. It works great to bring the shine back to both taillights and any newer headlights.

On eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/336554438042

If you make a post in the wanted section you might get lucky. https://comancheclub.com/forum/24-wanted/

Not true the wiring is missing in the cab. You need to pull the wires out of a Cherokee which involves pulling the firewall plug apart unpinning the wires out of the Cherokee and adding them into the Comanche. To do it properly the dash wiring harness should be removed to add the wires in to the harness. That section of the column is replaceable. The column need to be disassembled but it is possible to do. Your intermittent wiper module may be dead. You can remove it to eliminate that as the issue. Just plug the connectors of the intermittent module together and you will have park, high and low speed. Also the cluster swap has been done with the column shift housing. This is a great write up on the subject. You don't need the H.O. thermostat housing to use the gauges just need to swap out the temp and oil pressure switches for sensors.

Sounds like your fuse block needs to be rebuilt. It is a known issue with the manual transmission trucks. The clutch master cylinder leaks on top of the fuse block causing a lot of issues. This thread has a good breakdown of the fuse block.

That is the best looking cluster I have seen!! It is going to look great in the truck.

The 4.2 manifold is a lot easier to remove because the runners are about 1/2 the length of the 4.0 runners. I have changed every type of 4.0 manifold in my truck(Renix, H.O. and horse shoe) I was able to get to every bolt from the top with the airbox removed. Yes it does take some acrobatics to get to the rear most ones but it is possible. I didn't have any wobble sockets but did have wobble extensions. Like these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-Wobble-Extension-Set-3-Pieces-H3DWOBEXT3PC/202923528

@Gradinen can you get under the vehicle and take a picture of the transmission. It should be easy to figure out which transmission you have with a picture.