Spinnakerblue89

Not endorsing the idea outright, but, I did use Arm & Hammer deodorant on my 2004 Mustang GT serpentine belt and it eliminated a chirp for a little while.

I did use, and do recommend to others that Oxgard be used. I've used it for years on other applications as well. I merely wanted to know what others thought about covering the connection points with spray paint or whatever.

I see, thank you. I've used liquid electrical tape before and while I find it very handy, I've learned in the past that it doesn't always hold up very well. There's a limit to everything.

Curious what the forum thinks. I have heard advice that once a ground has been thoroughly cleaned and tightened down, it can be covered with spray paint to help prevent corrosion, I've even heard of things such as Zinc primer being used. Not necessarily looking to do this, I'm only asking since I have seen it more than once on several sites, just not here. Thanks.

FWIW I'll say what I've done recently. In my '89 MJ, I converted the cheapo LEDs the PO installed to IPF 820H H4 conversion assemblies. I added an upgraded harness and Sylvania SSUs. Couldn't be happier. Then in my '88 Ranger (and soon my '84 Bronco II), I changed it up just a little. But this still applies because both the RBVs and the Jeep XJ/MJs use 5x7 headlamps. I tried out the Philips Crystal Vision H4/9003s this time and while I think they just slightly less brighter than the SSUs, they are still very bright, scatter decently in the housing, and they're about half the cost. I have never put LEDs in a vehicle, not even in my 2015 Escape. I dunno, it seems that evert set I ever see tend to be cheap and never last long. My friend's XJ always looked like it was winking at me and having a stroke whenever he was following me, and the ones that came on my Pioneer would flicker a lot, and both vehicles had yellowed and foggy lenses too. When I removed my LED assemblies, there was rust in a few places.

Jeez, between reading about the GM 2.8 V6 and the Ford 2.8 V6... It makes me wonder if they were invented just so the company can claim that had a V6 for a certain application... Grounds ahoy! Been adding and refreshing grounds to this thing. Was wondering if anyone has ever had any experience with spraying Zinc coating or some sort of anti-corrosion film of a finished ground before? I ask because someone at work was mentioning it and I'd never thought of it before.

You beat me to it.

Yeah it does suck the location, but for all its faults, I can't say it's completely inexcusable, I believe the idea was to keep the sensor away from water and mud at the time. Have other manufacturers done it better? Perhaps.

I have to say, there are two schools of thought that I am reminded of today. If that mechanical fuel pump is as fun to change as the one on the Bronco II is, you are going to have colorful words for the engineers whenever you have to change it. If it isn't so bad, then nevermind. Sometimes it is advocated to add an inline fuel filter in between the fuel tank and the mechanical pump, to protect the pump itself. And sometimes it is also advocates to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one. Now, I'm not entirely sold on the latter idea, I can't say I disagree with the former.

Assuming it's a carbureted 2.8, the fuel filter is likely going to be INSIDE the carburetor, or perhaps attached to it on the outside. Usually it's a small cylinder, like a mini fuel filter compared to what you see today. If I'm wrong on that, someone can correct me. If it's anything like the FORD 2.8, the fuel filter is attached to he fuel line going IN to the carb, and may just be a matter of unthreading it. I wonder, is the GM 2.8 outfitted with a mechanical fuel pump just like the Ford 2.8?

Look, I know this may not be an answer you are hoping for, but just bear with me please, I promise it's not bad at all when you don't box yourself in. Sometimes you just have to take a step back for a moment and see other angles. Last year I replaced the CKPS on my ZJ 4.0 with minimal problems. Here is how I did it: Generously soak the sensor bolts with penetrant like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for a day. The last thing you ever want is for a seized bolt to break off in that spot. 1- First decide how much of a socket extension you require to reach the sensor from underneath the driver side. 2- build that extension lol. 3- at the end of your extension, attach a socket swivel. Now, here is the key part to this, *TAPE* that swivel. I wrapped around it, maybe three times. Why? A great source of frustration with doing this job is an overactive swivel, by taping it, it still has a range of motion, but it's stiffer. 4- attached a few feet of string to your new sensor, maybe 3 or 4 feet probably. Obviously color doesn't matter, but I used neon pink because it's easy to see in my engine bay. ***Be sure your sensor is connected securely before you continue*** 5- use that string to guide the new sensor down to the hole where it goes, and do this from above in the engine bay. 6- use your sick extension with the taped swivel to guide the bolts in from down below. 7- life's good, don't worry about the string, mine is still in my ZJ. A little advice. If you follow this steps, and you still get frustrated, just walk away for a bit. Getting frustrated on this job is never going to end well. I did the job in 30 mins tops, including after I got flustered and stepped away to regroup. I've heard grown men say it took them all weekend to do this job, I ain't about that. And for the love of God, don't cheap out on the sensor. I used an NTK and it's been since last September that I did the job. I hope that helps you because brother, cutting should be a last resort.

I will say this, because one of the links on here mentioned it. I had a Blaupunkt in the Stang and it served me well. However, I'm not exactly what you would call an audiophile, to me, music is music and often I can do without. My audiophile friends commented that the Blaupunkt wasn't as good as some of their older models were. That seems to be the going theme with them. That said, I run JVC currently which is fine but I definitely wouldn't mind swapping out for a more retro styled radio design in all of my rigs.

I dunno, the IAC on my ZJ did this very thing just this year. I cleaned it, and it ran again but that valve was freaking rough man. Replaced it ASAP and it started up like it was dying to start up!

2000 Ford F-150 XLT (5.42v) which has forever turned me on to Ford trucks for various reasons. 2004 Ford Mustang GT 40th Anniversary. 2015 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 (sold this off to finish paying me student loans FTW) 1993 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0+ AW4 & NP232 1989 Jeep MJ Pioneer 4.0+ AW4 1988 Ford Ranger Custom 4x4 2.9 V6 5sp 2003 Landrover Discovery II 4.6 V8 1984 Ford Bronco II 2.8 V6 And for a short time I drove a 1999 Ford Explorer 4.0 as well as a 1995 Mazda MX-5 5sp. I admire both vehicles greatly, and I maintain that an MX-5 is the only 4 banger I want. I seriously enjoyed every minute of driving that thing, it handles so freaking well!

Daaayum! I guess now I gotta get me some!

Oof it's been a little while since I pulled my head unit out, and I actually did have the same one the OP showed, same as you apparently. I distinctly remembered that something on the bracket was bent, and I had to correct that for it to fit. You may double check that. Now on my '93 ZJ, I had the same problem as you and I am not looking forward to the day that I have to ever pull the head until out because I fussed and fussed with it for a while until finally I held my breath, shoved the radio back into the cubby without damaging anything, and I got lucky. I'm not suggesting that here, but I am saying that I did have to do that once and it specifically was because of the cables being plentiful.

Would not the XJ OCs work on an MJ? I imagine the length may an issue.

That's what I was afraid of. Rare breed, too much in need. I'm afraid the aftermarket for the Comanche will never be as robust as it could be.

I will let SMS speak for himself, but I thought I had heard at some point that this was part of a group but or was a limited time offer from his business? If that's not true, my mistake, however, I got a top notch new header panel from him.

Granted I'm okay with a soldering iron, I even have a decent setup form Hakko. I would rather spend that time doing something a little more meaningful like service, tune-up, brakes, whatever. I still have the old MJ radio though, and it does work.

I remember reading that the Lightning took up the mantle of fastest production truck in the world until the Dodge Ram SRT-10 came out a year or two after, but before all that, the Syclone held the title. That's one baaaaaaaadass ride. Didn't those only come in black?

So a USB port would need to pass through the converter before reaching the rest of the board?

on my 2003 Landrover Disco II, I had a problem with the headlights getting hazy. I fixed that, but one started to get condensation inside, and I fixed that also. Unfortunately during this process, one of the caps that screw onto the backside of the headlight assembly went missing. Each opening to a lightbulb is covered by a threaded cap, and those aren't easily replaced, and ain't nooooo way I'm paying $1200 for a set of new headlights just yet (I would get both at the same time). Soooo... My mother being a cat person... She keeps canned food in her fridge with a plastic cap on the can. She happened to have a whole set of them, and they fit the actual headlamp opening perfectly. Since they had nothing to thread onto, I first duct taped it in place for the winter season, and then last year I finally took off the headlight again and just screwed the lid in place. I love that truck, but if there is ever a brand that teaches you less expensive, and often better alternative ways to fix something, it's any Landrover.

I would be more curious about adding USB, myself.

I wish I knew that a year ago... I regret this everytime someone nearly brushed into mine.