dave92cherokee

Looking good, just keep plugging away at it and you'll get there. Not sure if you ever fixed your belt issue but if not i would recommend getting a mech's stethoscope, it will help you pinpoint noises in the future as well( and there will be many strange noises).

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2782424303.html 91 Comanche Eliminator Clean Title 4.0L AX-15 - 5-speed NP231 - T-case AXLES: Full Width Ford D44 front pushed forward 3", Warn Chromoly Axles, Spicer joints on short side, Stock inner/outer Axle w/ Alloy Xjoint on long side, Detroit EZ locker w/ 4.88 gears, Chevy Flat top knuckles, Blazer spindles, Wagoneer calipers, Ford discs, Mile Marker Lockouts Full Width Ford 9" pushed forward 8", Chromoly axle shafts, Full Detroit Locker with Tru Hi-9 3rd member w/ 4.88 gears, Ford Drums ENGINE AREA: E-350 master cylinder Cone Filter Ford "yellow" injectors for better fuel automization Dual Electric fans (runs 160 deg. on the trails) STEERING: PSC Hydraulic Steering kit DOM steering links with Rod end links High steer arms SUSPENSION: Rear: Comanche Leafs SOA, Frenched hanger into frame Rancho Shocks Front: Leaf spring conversion w/ NEW BDS 3.5" YJ springs rancho shocks BODY & INTERIOR Factory bucket seat interior extremely clean CB Radio with Antenna Rock sliders Custom front bumper w/ 9K LB winch & lights Radiused front fenders reinforced with 1/4 angle iron Rear of Cab cut out (Walk through) Tube rear section w/ canopy and CJ jump seat mounted in the rear Ammo cans for storage Gas tank moved to the rear and up between the frame with a tank skid plate Lower rack for storage and upper rack for cooler ect. WHEELS/TIRES 15x8 Crager Soft 8's w/ 4" BS 5on5.5 mounting 36" IROKs balanced with air soft pellets (50% tread left in rear, fronts are about dead) 81" wide in the front Wheel base is 108" That's the jist of it, probably a lot I am forgetting. Hydro steer and Hi-9 was over $3900 alone. Rig is very capable. Drives SMOOTH on the highway. Body is not beat up at all. Had it to Harlan through the Lower Rock garden, Damnation, Mason Jar, and other trails. Very impressive reliable rig. Very easy to drive, crawls slow in low-gear and steers easily. spare parts, axle shafts, ect ect. $5400.00 606-524-5423

Sounds like windows has gotten corrupt preventing it from coming up all the way, either that or the hard drive is acting up. If you have a xp cd I'd try reinstalling windows from scratch (after backing up everything you can) to see if that fixes it. You can also try last known good configuration from the safe mode menu (might/might not be an available option).

Thicker than the 97+? Do you have to slam the door closed? :D Have you actually done this, or are you just assuming it will work? It's a common replacement for the XJ guys through all ranges. The moulding from all doors and hatch from the grands will fit when cut down slightly. So since it works for the xj's and the fronts are the same as the MJ's it would provide even better sealing.

For one even thicker than the 97+ look for the door seal from a ZJ, they're thicker and slightly longer so will require trimming.

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png There's a sheet that I've got saved that shows alot of the differences between different leaf springs.

Happy new year to all and be safe. And remember don't drink and drive but if you do don't drive an MJ. New Year's Resolution: Finish quad cab and be driving it by summer

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost ... stcount=25 There's a clip from ORS's stage two build showing the sill's being welded to the 2x6. Will probably do kind of like that so the edge and surface are welded to the box tube. Most seem to go with either 1/8 or 3/16 thickness with the latter being the stronger obviously for more strength and abuse. Thinking I might also check into the price for some 3x6 3/16" which would allow me to bend a couple of tubes in the future to weld to the outside like most typical rocker guards. I've thought about sealing them up for use as air tanks but seeing how hard of a time others have had getting an air tight seal think I'm going to pass on that and just simply cap them then bedliner/undercoat the bottom sides.

After cutting the sides out I'd still remove the bed anyways. Looking at the pic it looks like the driver side frame right behind the cab has some rust on it. For removing the bed should be the main bolts holding it in, the J bolts for the gas tank straps, metal gas tank skid if equipped, e-brake piece, spare tire holder, and exhaust hanger in front of cross member.

Here's a thread from 86fubar and how he did his rockers only he went to the very bottom under the doors like alot of people do. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5484&hilit=PROJECT+FUBAR&start=45 Then of course there's the JF way http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/time ... ndex7.html And there's a bunch of people that have done it on NAXJA to both 2 and 4 door xj's. Doing the bottom sill and the front part isn't what I'm worried about I'm just wanting to see what others have done with the cab corners. From the few I've seen on here it seems alot of people run past the cab for protection for the front of the bed, but can't tell if they've welded the bed to it or not. Can't see why they would as then you wouldn't be able to remove it anymore. Whatever it may be I'm going to take pics along the way for cut lines and how/where I weld it up. It may take a while as the jeeps been being worked on slowly for the last year getting built, but I will update it as I go.

Working on the manche finally got the floor done, primered, seam sealed. Just have a couple of small rust holes that I need to patch up. Been working on the rockers getting ready to put in some 2x6 box tube. Checked the metal supply and I can get 3/16 and 1/4 for the same price and there's only a 20LB weight difference between the two, so given that I'm thinking going with the 1/4 for the extra strength. Been searching and looking for peoples builds to see how others have done it specifically the cab corner as I don't plan to extend it under the bed. Most people seem to only go to the first lip in the rocker to avoid having to cut up the doors, but has anyone gone all the way up to the bottom sill plate and cut up the doors? Will start off with just the box capped at both ends and then add in the supports to the frame this spring/summer. So has anyone done that in any of their build and taken pics so I can see some different ideas?

Don't know how they perform on a 4.0 but this is the muffler I plan on putting on the manche when I get the exhaust done. Ignore the stupid chrome ricer tip as they can be bought without it. http://kamikazeperformance.com/store/sh ... 4362.32377

Got some new socks and a copy of rise of planet of the apes on blu ray. But the best present is watching the kids smiles as they opened presents and knowing that for the next week I get uninterupted time to work on the jeep.

Unless you're 2wd and never plan on going 4wd do not get front durango seats. The seat base is very wide and I'm remoulding the trans tunnel to fit them in there. The best option would probably be either early xj seats, mod the newer 97+ xj seats/wj seats. I know alot of the guys on NAXJA with the newer xj's were saying that swapping bases would allow a wj seat to directly bolt in to newer xj's.

My manche sat for a year without so much as being turned over manually while I was working on it. Finally got it to a point that I was going to be able to fire it up so I turned the harmonic balancer by hand first to make sure it wasn't seized up before trying to start. Then changed the oil so some fresh oil was at the top of the engine and wouldn't be a dry start. Then just cranked it a few times and it fired right up without a glitch like it'd been running the whole time. Granted this is on a 4.0 and you've got the 2.8 but should still be pretty close, only problem you might have to worry about is the carb being gummed up or corroded or something from age.

LOL look at all that rust, really makes you wonder what was keeping the entire truck upright. maybe you should throw some thermite on it and watch it burn to the ground in a viking burial.

Yes a check valve in good condition would prevent air from going back into the axle. Best thing to do is I've seen some people build an airbox and run all the breathers to it and then connect it into the air intake.

The stock hose on my 88 ran from the axle to a push in piece in the X member above the axle on the front drivers side. You can probably find the same little push in piece from a rear xj axle vent on the inside of the drivers rail above the axle. They both vented the same way with the same kind of push in plastic piece.

PM sent

For something like that it can all depend on the welding job. If you have the capacity to bend it instead of welding it then I say bend it to make it all 1 piece. Only reason I would suggest using the 3 holes would be so after you lift it if the axle was sitting a little to far forward then you could move it back to get it centered in the wheel well opening.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... iwrap.html Ruffstuff has some available for quite a few axles that are 8" long. If you make your own I would drill a couple extra holes in them for the center pin to help center the wheel in the opening.

Don't know what's in your area but I was quoted $25 to have my tank cleaned by a radiator shop. I would check into it as it might be worth it to save the headache of trying to get it cleaned and all the old gunk completely out of it.

If it's a floor shift automatic you can get one off any xj and even the zj's will work. As for the turn signal lenses if it's the orange ones on the front you can get those off an xj from a junkyard.

If you would be willing to pay that much for one needing rebuilt how much could one go for thats already been fully rebuilt?

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19695 There's the writeup i used when attaching the 93xj harness to the 88mj harness in the manche. After it was done everything seemed to work fine. On the XJ harness there's also a good sized ground wire that runs to the back behind the drivers tail light. I used it to add an additional ground inside the cab since the ground behind taillights always seems to act up.