scaleless

Corroded connections on the ballast resistor, a faulty ballast resistor, or a faulty fuel pump ground. Possibly a failing fuel pump, but less likely. When cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed and the fuel pump gets a higher voltage. If there is an issue and the pump is operating below its normal levels, this is enough to raise the fuel rail to an acceptable pressure before dropping shortly afterwards and stalling the engine. The ballast resistor is on your driver's side fender: (The white thing with two orange wires) Clean up the connectors with a wire brush and check resistance across the two pins. Should be about 1.2Ω. Refresh the fuel pump ground. Details can be found here: http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 tshould work fine afterwards. Refresh the other grounds on that same page for a general performance boost. Tips 1 - 5 are all recommended for new owners, as well.

Yes, that's what I meant. However I want to amend what I said - after looking at the wiring diagram, I think you burnt your fusible link that comes off the starter relay. Consult this portion of the wiring diagram for details: The fusible link looks like a normal wire, but if blown may be visibly burnt. These frequently blow because of light switches burning up, however, so make sure you inspect your switch and connector. It also frequently happens because of corroded front harness connectors that Cruiser referenced above. Make sure to check both before replacing the fusible link.

I win this fight!

Very, very easy. My mother has one. They made them up until 2014 and a lot of parts still interchange with new 4Runners and Tundras.

A wild Jay Leno in his natural habitat!

Is the mount adapter still bolted to the transmission? It goes between the crossmember and the transmission and is kinda hard to find otherwise.

I would use Automotive Goop. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCID28

Most likely your headlight switch

Good catch!

Looks like a classic "shaved" engine bay. Kinda of a nightmare to find everything, but once you do and you're confident everything is up to spec, then it looks good and clears up a lot of engine bay space! Aside from what everyone else is mentioning, it looks like they probably passed the wires through the firewall somewhere discreet - you definitely need to check for leaks because of any extra holes.

I swapped to a manual computer only because I had one on hand. I know on the Renix computers the only major difference is a higher idle on the auto computer, but I don't know much about the HO computers.

This is the fuel pump ballast. It doesn't appear you have one. But listen to Jdog - make sure you complete Cruiser's tips before you advance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-88-89-Very-Rare-Original-RA-5-RA-3-JeeP-AMC-Pair-Nickel-Keys-1988-1989-/283630201011?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Members here may have some available for cheaper. The RA5-cut keys with the AMC logo are pretty rare. If you can find someone with a used key that is cut higher on all ridges than yours, you can cut it down, as well. If you have a steady hand and find one that is cut lower, you can also carefully braze more material onto the key and cut it back down to match your key. Pretty sure the earlier RA4 lock cylinders are a direct swap and NOS RA4 keys are plentiful and cheap, so that's an option if you want to go that route.

I believe the ballast was added in midway through the '88 model year, so it all depends on if their '87 was brought in for service after that bulletin.

The mechanism locks when the key is in the off position and isn't related to the park interlock or anything, so you should he fine.

VERY useful list, thank you for keeping it updated!

I just epoxied mine in the park position. If Jdog makes a write-up I would do that instead, though.

It doesn't require loading any additional data - everything is client-side.

Everyone, quick, sell your tail lamps before the repros crash the market!

Aaaaah! I'm curious, how are you manufacturing these?

$250? Looks $120 to me.

The housing shape looks like it would be fairly trivial to 3D print - the lenses are the hard part. I'm sure there will be enough demand for the housing itself once the lenses come out for someone to step up and make them.

Tell them to hurry up!

I agree, I'm also not sure if that device can reverse the sender output. Regardless, a circuit that would do exactly what you want is fairly trivial to make. Pretty sure I have everything I need to make this if you want me to ship you one.

Does it start with starting fluid? -> fuel If you pull a plug and crank is there a visible spark? -> spark Visually inspect your intake and/or test for manifold vacuum-> air