Sorry for the confusion. I mentioned the 89 because I never had to evaluate oil pressure since the dummy gauge doesn't give readings. The 89 has the original full gauge cluster so now I see readings of the various pressures and such. I assume 80+ is too high but what do I fix to correct that? I'll take pics of what I believe is the sensor and you guys can tell me if I am correct. ( pics to follow )
You're in the correct forum for MJ tech questions and tips. If you start documenting you project, post that in the Projects and any little DIY tips go in to DIY. Read through and get a feel for what goes where.
My 89 had the dummy gauges. The 88 has full cluster. Everything seems to be fine except the oil gauge likes to stay pegged at 80+. It has moved a little while driving so it isn't stuck. My oil pump thing (or regulator?) next to the engine is covered in oil from when I bought the truck. Should the pressure concern me and how hard is it to swap out the regulator?
:cheers: Welcome to the Club! The answer to your question is beyond my ken so I'll leave that up to someone much more experienced than me. Don't forget, we LOVE pictures!
Picked up a D44 rear (XJ) and now need to get it cleaned up, inspected, modified, and mounted. Also switched out shift lever on the AX15 to have better ergonomics.
One of the perks of living in So. Cal. is the joy of driving to & from work in bumper to bumper traffic. I just got the 88 road worthy so I drove it to work for the first time today. Driving 13 miles home in 1st & 2nd gear (see above), the truck felt like I was constantly feathering the gas pedal even though I had a steady foot. This ebb and flow lasted the whole way home anytime I held the speed steady at 10 to 15 mph. Fuel pump? Throttle? Any ideas? :dunno:
I've decided to pass on the above 8.8. I can get a D44 (XJ) with 3.54 ratio for about $300. It is complete except for the brake lines. I can also get the MJ D35 with 3.55 from a wrecked 86 for less than $150. If I get the 44, what type of shop would I contact to shorten my driveshaft and/or weld perches in the proper positions?
I want to upgrade from my 3.07 D35 2wd. I was wondering if this 8.8 would require a laundry list of mods to make it worth it.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/2169940699.html
I can also get a cheap D35 from a 86 MJ 2wd 2.5 or a D35 from a 92 XJ 4wd auto 4.0 . Thoughts & comments??
I just replaced the peugeot with AX15 yesterday. Feels like a new truck! The driveshaft came from a XJ since the AX15 output shaft was too large in diameter to fit the original yoke/driveshaft. Does the AMC 20 differ in length compared to the D30?
Thanks Pete! I'll try to grab both complete axles and the rear slider. He just replaced all suspension components a year ago so I'll get all that too. Will I need the drive shaft and yokes. I have a 2wd AX15?
OK Gurus, I'm going to look at a parts truck on Saturday and need to know what will be compatible. Parts truck = 86 LWB 2.5 unk transmission. Project truck = 88 SWB 4.0 5spd Eliminator.
Did the 2.5 have the better gears/axles and could it be metric ton? Are the leafs on the LB bolt ups to the SB?
The truck has damage to the R/F from a falling tree branch and even tweaked the frame so the owner decided to part out. Any help is welcome!
:agree: I'm very happy with these lights in function and appearance. The named limo company also sells seat belts so if you need them you can get around the high shipping fee for just the lights.
Finally got it back from getting an AX15 installed and emissions work/passing smog test. Drove to AAA to get my new plates & reg. Drove home, installed tail lights I bought from CC member. Mounted new license plates. :banana:
Mine are on with TORX screws. Hard to believe the new mirrors didn't come with screws. Go to junkyard and pull the screws from a Cherokee or take the mirrors with you to an autoparts store to ensure the new screws fit.