Big_Mark

Hi all, I am in the process of installing a new radiator. My old radiator has a bung for the auxiliary cooling fan sending unit (the radiator fan on the driver side) in the driver side of the radiator tank. The new radiator has a plug in the same position that I think I can just turn out then install the sensor there. I am wondering if I can instead install a thermostat housing from a newer 4.0 that has the hole for the sending unit instead of putting it in the radiator again. This would get it out of "the hole" where the wires are hidden/got pinched/cut over the years. Aside from the sending unit hole, are there any differences in the head, hose connection points, etc I need to be aware of if I choose to go with a different t-stat housing? Thanks in advance

1989 JEEP COMANCHE PIONEER VIN: 1J7FJ36L8KL434465 GVWR - 4001-5000 Series - PIONEER Engine - 4.0L Transmission - Aisin AX-15, Manual 5-speed Gear Ratios 1st - 3.83:1 2nd - 2.33:1 3rd - 1.44:1 4th - 1.00:1 5th - 0.79:1 Reverse - 4.22:1 Transfer Case - NP242, 2.72:1 Assembly Plant - Toledo, Ohio Plant No. 1 Front Axle: Dana 30 3.55:1(1999) Rear Axle: 8.25 Chrysler 3.55:1 (1999) Wheelbase; SWB Build date: n/a my drivers door is not stock here is the tag from under the radiator, maybe this is helpful? Current Location: Snohomish Wa, USA Status: It's a runner! It's licensed and insured! I've taken it wheeling! Notes: Has factory skid plate, Jeep was bought from the bushes barely running, electrical was a mess, see my build thread here: Current owner: Mark Rogalski

Oh I discovered why my aux fan wasn't coming on automatically, one of the sensor wires is almost cut through, gotta fix that gig! Wifey and I also went to Ben Frankin craft store where I bought some non-felty flannel and adhesive for recovering my headliner, this thing is going to look great with all the interior in and matching!

I got all the old parts that are being replaced off the MJ yesterday, come on Fed-Ex bring me gifts! Leaking steering box ready to pack up and ship! I was pleasantly surprised to find NO CRACKS at the steering box mount, win! Front is pulled apart, ready for newness!

Speaking of my Scrambler, here's a video from the way back (in 2009) machine. Mark's Scrambler at Funny Rocks

Christmas at Rockauto and Ebay! RA: Radiator, Hoses, aux fan, water pump, idler puller, power steering hoses, rubber floor mat! Ebay: Driver side; Burgundy door skins, window crank, hockey puck arm rest/door handle, fan shroud Next up: West Texas Offroad steering box/ram My ship came in so ole Jeepy is getting some much-needed upgrades/restoration Where it sits today (p.s. I got the grill in right side up, for an hour ha ha ha) Grill B gone! Today I plan on draining and pulling the radiator. After that I will start working on measuring my steering throw so I can get the steering ram ordered. BTW these are things on my needs/wants list. I have decided to go with the redneck ram (RR) early in the game because before my Scrambler went full trailer queen I had death wobbles big time (Dana 44 front with used, bias ply Super swampers) after trying numerous solutions I ended up adding the RR system and all the issues went away. Currently I don't have death wobs, but my steering box sector shaft seal finally went out (just sitting there in the garage) and I have oversized tires and an old frame of which I won't know the condition of until I get the steering box off. So rather than spend money with steering box braces and brackets I figured I'd just move the stress off of the frame and down to the axle and tie rod. I'll take pics along the way. the RR conversion will be phased, first phase will be just get the steering box out, sent down to RR for a rebuild and port, then back into the Jeep. After that I'll install the ram. I am not sure if I'm going to reuse my stock tie rod or get a hd one or do a high steering setup first. I guess that depends on the condition of my frame at the steering box. I hope to have all this stuff done before the end of winter. Projects are fun!

Thanks for the part numbers, it looks like you edited your original post, dang dude WT* is wrong with people! I swear the whole world is losing their minds.. Stay safe man

LOL I had no idea, I started Jeeping as a 7 slot guy I guess I know what my next 10 minute Jeep job is going to be, thanks Pete!

Well I've been busy, I was finally able to figure out the weird alignment of my dash (it wasn't attached to the steering column properly) so now I put my dash back together with a new to me dash insert and 92 clock! I also cleaned up an ugly switch situation, little improvements! Since my cab is now "sealed" (at least it doesn't leak constantly) I plan to buy a rubber floor "carpet" to cover up the uglies. I also found a new to me shifter cover without rips! as well as a bracket to support the passenger side of the center console near the shifter. Since my transmission isn't the stock one, the original support didn't fit. However, I found a slightly different version of the bracket at the local junk yard so now it's firmly attached and ready for "carpet" ! Still need to get a better match on the paint for the lower dash, all in good time!

Welcome to the forum! Glad to see another WA state wheeler with a rig built for our types of terrain. Your MJ is pretty much what I am aiming for, built for Nachese and western WA snow days I'm fixin ta replace my radiator, any chance you have the part numbers you mentioned for the rad/hoses and pump mentioned aobve? Once again Welcome! P.S. Great score how stock was it when you got it?

When swapping motors I suggest grabbing the entire Engine harness and computer along with the engine (same with the transmission if it's an automatic). Ultimately you "just" connect the harness back to the engine, computer, power and ground, then vroom vroom! No programming needed; it will just work as it did in its old home. Notice "just" is bold and highlighted, you will need to figure out fuel delivery (as you noted) as well as ignition on/off. But otherwise yeah the donor harness should do the job and for $300-$700 less than some aftermarket harness that may or may not work when you get it, and you will still need to hook it up as described. When I put the 5.0 in my Scrambler It took a minute to wrap my head around the major systems that run independently of each other. Comanche System that remain/can remain stock: 1. Lighting 2. wipers 3. Ignition 4. Fuel system power Non stock Systems: 1. Engine/computer 2. Transmission computer (if using modern Automatic) Dassit! The new system will overlap in places with the old system (fuel system power/Ignition) but other than that, you will need to keep them separated in your head. Hope this helps P.S. keep that donor vehicle around until your new one is up and running, if you have a donor vehicle that is.

Where's the "like" button when you need one! I agree go with Fuel injection, unless you like screwing around with gas, float bowls, etc. If you plan on doing any off-roading, definitely go with Fuel injection (any kind), with carbs there is typically one off camber angle that will cause the carb to flood until you get past it (Holley 2BBl, Weber 2 BBL do this) with Fuel injection it just works, even upside down (at least temporarily) If you do go carb a Rochester carb is better for offroading than Weber/Holley, for whatever reasons they flood less, and I've seen em running upside down as well (though for a shorter period that the fuel injected engines)

I had a leak coming from the cab vent panel cover mounting holes (those black vertical panels on the sides of the cab). There is a foam seal that goes around the sides and top of the plastic piece that can dry up. I pulled mine off, hit it with some silicone sealer then put the vent cover and my mystery leak from the back corners of my cab went away. The Vent covers are held on by 3-4 body pins (plastics) allowing you to carefully pry/pull the covers off the truck. My front of cab leaks was from the windshield seal, other rear leaks from rear window seal. Welcome to the club and have fun wrenching!

Steer clear of the "red" polyurethane bushings, they are very durable as advertised, but as AZ-Jeff said, the ride quality is harsh. Also, the bushings are so hard the components they are installed in can become the flex point instead of the bushing, causing cracks at the mounts/frame/wherever the bushings are located. I learned the hard way on my Scrambler. I used the poly body mounts and ended up with cracks in the body everywhere the mounts were located. Also cracks around the frame where the sway bar connected. No bueno Stick with OEM if possible. You gotta figure if it took 20+ years for them to go bad, your replacements should last just as long

I was driving mine with what amounted to a straight pipe setup until a few months ago (2 years now?) the PO has cut off the cat back and replaced it with a straight pipe and a flowmaster muffler. Response was quick, no backfiring unsure of mileage as I wasn't keeping track. After getting a new cat and pipe (I kept the muffler) i noticed a change in the response and powerband. Also under compression (letting off the gas to slow down to turn into my street) I heard a bunch of "POP POP POP" coming from under my feet (?) I'm sure it's the cat in there that made the changes. Over time I've gotten used to the change, get great mileage and even the popping has reduced somewhat.

Thought I had already, I'll get ur dunn soon P.S. here's a useful link How To: Rebuilding A Jeep NP231J Transfer Case (motortrend.com)

Wow I feel much better about the condition on my Jeep, thanks!

The flat blade like connector (your index finger is on) plugs into the ignition switch on top of the steering column. But more importantly, please post more pics of that Cookie Monster carpet!

Maybe it's time to visit a junk yard?

Thanks man! Parts for the New Process 231 Transfer Case (novak-adapt.com)

Hi All, I need help identifying which particular transfercase (model, year / version) I have so I can order a new t-case chain that is the correct length the first time around. I need help because my MJ is a bit of a franken-truck and the PO (now deceased) swapped in the transmission and axles. He didn't say anything about the transfercase so I am presuming it's a stock 1989 NP 271 but as I said I am not 100% certain. Here is the badge on it I think the stamp reads: 231J 5209 9212 12 7 98 3C 272 Here are some views of it in the MJ. VIN: 1J7FJ36L8KL434465 Any input is appreciated also if you have part numbers please post up, I'm having difficulty finding any replacement chains. While I have it apart, I'd like to replace the seals, oil pump and pulley gears. Again, part numbers would be greatly appreciated thanks for helping me find parts for my winter project!

The Green wires in this picture are fusible links. They burn out when overloaded by design, kind of like a fuse, only they are wires. When handling them, if they feel "floppy" / not stiff like a wire should be, then they are likely burnt out and will need to be replaced. You could temporarily replace them with a similarly gauged wire for testing purposes. Just don't leave the temporary replacement in for the long term otherwise components upstream will burn out instead of the fusible link.

Ouch! Did you take a look at the fusable links? Hopefully they did their thing and broke.

Great nerding guys! I just picked up a 91 clock assembly from "All about Auto" wrecking yard here in Snohomish, and was thinking I could shove a Rasberry PI Zero in that assembly, but I don't know what I'd want it to do. Maybe be an MP3 player? Maybe wire up some kind of display to fill the hole where my radio is supposed to go? I think for now I'll be happy with splicing in the radio harness to get the clock in and working first.

All I know about these axles is make sure the axle tubes are welded into the cast, otherwise they slip