Big_Mark

I was driving mine with what amounted to a straight pipe setup until a few months ago (2 years now?) the PO has cut off the cat back and replaced it with a straight pipe and a flowmaster muffler. Response was quick, no backfiring unsure of mileage as I wasn't keeping track. After getting a new cat and pipe (I kept the muffler) i noticed a change in the response and powerband. Also under compression (letting off the gas to slow down to turn into my street) I heard a bunch of "POP POP POP" coming from under my feet (?) I'm sure it's the cat in there that made the changes. Over time I've gotten used to the change, get great mileage and even the popping has reduced somewhat.

Thought I had already, I'll get ur dunn soon P.S. here's a useful link How To: Rebuilding A Jeep NP231J Transfer Case (motortrend.com)

Wow I feel much better about the condition on my Jeep, thanks!

The flat blade like connector (your index finger is on) plugs into the ignition switch on top of the steering column. But more importantly, please post more pics of that Cookie Monster carpet!

Maybe it's time to visit a junk yard?

Thanks man! Parts for the New Process 231 Transfer Case (novak-adapt.com)

Hi All, I need help identifying which particular transfercase (model, year / version) I have so I can order a new t-case chain that is the correct length the first time around. I need help because my MJ is a bit of a franken-truck and the PO (now deceased) swapped in the transmission and axles. He didn't say anything about the transfercase so I am presuming it's a stock 1989 NP 271 but as I said I am not 100% certain. Here is the badge on it I think the stamp reads: 231J 5209 9212 12 7 98 3C 272 Here are some views of it in the MJ. VIN: 1J7FJ36L8KL434465 Any input is appreciated also if you have part numbers please post up, I'm having difficulty finding any replacement chains. While I have it apart, I'd like to replace the seals, oil pump and pulley gears. Again, part numbers would be greatly appreciated thanks for helping me find parts for my winter project!

The Green wires in this picture are fusible links. They burn out when overloaded by design, kind of like a fuse, only they are wires. When handling them, if they feel "floppy" / not stiff like a wire should be, then they are likely burnt out and will need to be replaced. You could temporarily replace them with a similarly gauged wire for testing purposes. Just don't leave the temporary replacement in for the long term otherwise components upstream will burn out instead of the fusible link.

Ouch! Did you take a look at the fusable links? Hopefully they did their thing and broke.

Great nerding guys! I just picked up a 91 clock assembly from "All about Auto" wrecking yard here in Snohomish, and was thinking I could shove a Rasberry PI Zero in that assembly, but I don't know what I'd want it to do. Maybe be an MP3 player? Maybe wire up some kind of display to fill the hole where my radio is supposed to go? I think for now I'll be happy with splicing in the radio harness to get the clock in and working first.

All I know about these axles is make sure the axle tubes are welded into the cast, otherwise they slip

Not normal no. Perhaps a stretched chain?

Those clamps are SOOOOOO handy! Glad you are closing in on this. I suspect they over arched the springs in manufacturing. Driving around with weight in the back is not an acceptable solution.

Andy if he measures the way you describe his new springs are going to measure longer because of the lift (top spring measured flat will be 3-5" longer than stock) eye to eye is the way to measure here as that is the cause of the shackle position. Good call on the SOA vs SUA pin position, that's worth looking into.

I agree with the others, it looks like the new springs are not the correct overall length. I suggest measuring the stock springs, eye (bolt sleeve to bolt sleeve) to eye to get an overall spring length for a stock Comanche spring. Then (huge PITA I know) take the same measurement from the new springs. They should be really close to the same lengths (eye to eye) if not do the maths then ask Rusty's if the spring length you receive is the correct length for Comanche lift springs. is correct. My guess is a manufacturing mix up occurred.

Then a trip to eastern WA over the Naches pass (on the trail) which is 200 miles round trip with 50 or so miles of it being hill climbs, tight trees in high desert conditions. As it turned out my friends decided lets do Naches first then go to the river second. Sure why not, it’s all or nothing anyways! Great news the Comanche did great, even with 20 year old BFG AT’s (not Kos even) and open diffs. Here is my Jeep buddy Rob three wheeling on a spot I just flexed over (longer wheelbase + 6” lift help’s lol) Here’s the gaggle of parked trucks at the top of the entrance hill climb to the Naches trail on the West side. I always have to laugh at any wheeling pics from the Naches, they always look like a bunch of trucks parked on flat roads. Trust it’s not flat getting to that point. Here’s my camping mode. I bought the tent a few years ago. It works great and I finally figured out how to set it up and strap it down. Granted a proper ground tent is easier to set up but this is what I have these days. And it keeps me from going “night wheeling” which is good for everyone involved! One of the things I fixed after the Naches trip was my lighter outlet. It would heat up the lighter but wouldn’t charge a phone with the adapter, so I had to improvise, cause that’s how we Jeepers do! BTW the fix was to bypass the wiring harness, once I jumped to direct power from a vacant port in the fuse block (there are lots, some are switched some aren’t!) and a ground to “Cruisers” under dash ground point it, AND a proper disassembly and cleaning of the outlet it works perfectly now. The only “issues” I had on this trip were: 20 mpg on the highway / 10 mpg on the trail, that’s not to shabby nor is an issue, I was really surprised how well it did on the hwy, 5th gear is good. Pretty sure my tcase chain is stretched, whenever I was going up hills there was a rotational click, click, click that went faster in low and slower in high range that disappeared altogether in 2wd. At some point I was driving on a logging road in 2 wd, but the road had fresh loose gravel on it so I put it in 4wd high range, well the clicking got louder and louder then BAM! Something wadded up then let loose. The good news it I still had 4wd and the noise stopped (or was greatly reduced) so hmnn…… is it broken? On the way home I pulled over to the side of the pavement to air up and discovered a weeping drip coming from the passenger side of my radiator (near the top) so I topped off my coolant and drove home watching the temp gauge closely. Good news is no news! I made it home without issue and the weeping seems to have stopped. This is my next project. Here are some views from the trail as seen from the cab This pic has Mt Rainer in it, but it’s obscured by clouds. Top of the ridge heading to Funny Rocks, yeah its off camber No comment, just beautiful! More beauty! Dust, it was dusty boy is it nice having doors, windows and a windshield, in my Scrambler I had none of that and just ate dust! If you want to go to Naches you can access it from Western Wa Hwy 410 leaving Enumclaw WA, head up 410 (towards Chinook Pass) then just after the “town” of Greenwater make a left onto forest road 70 for about 10 miles then there’s a left fork (unmarked) where you drive up 200’, air down then turn right up that steep entrance hill! From Eastern WA Yakima to Cliffdell on 410 then head up Milk Creek Road to get to the ridge.

Well I’ve made some improvements since the last post. Lots of little things, dash lights, wiper switch, ignition switch with key, passenger door power window switch install (it works!!), beat dents out of body, doors, painted rust, floorboards and the interior is back in! But the latest major improvements are a new exhaust and catalytic converter installed and hung high! The old exhaust was just cobbled in and would BANG BANG BANG on the floor when I went over bumps in the road, had no tail pipe and superheated the floor under the passenger seat because the muffler was 1” below the floor board, which is not good for setting groceries on. Now it’s properly hung, and it all dumps out under the truck right in front of the rear axle with a tail pipe. The muffler is attached to the body in 3 places, I love it and it is much quieter. Then I discovered there was a leak in the windshield lower drivers’ corner, my plan (being cheap and all) was to rock the windshield out of the frame, apply some “goop” then set it back in. Well, that didn’t go so well, and the 2 cracks that traversed the windshield turned into a web o’cracks over the whole thing, so I got a pro to come out and drop in a fresh one. Seal is fixed so my dash will now stay dry, and I can see out of the front of my Comanche proper. These two things were done right before my two maiden journeys, which were to be overnight to the Suiattle River out of Darington WA. This is 100 miles away from my house, and is mainly forest and gravel logging roads.

Keep the Dana 44, and keep plugging away!

I am finally putting my interior back together but discovered I only have 2 1 panel pin left. When I say panel pin I mean the white plastic pins that are used to attach the panel under the rear window to the body. Anyone have a part number to help me find this part quickly? Once this is in I just need to whip up a headliner and get a carpet or rubber mat replacement for my carpet then my interior is back together! Thanks in advance, here's a couple of pics Overall Length is 3/4" Front/flat view Side/slot view

They said they don't make them or have them in stock. But they do have the manual sliders available. You would think the motor was used for other versions, like the Chevy pick-em-up trucks etc. but the guy said "no we don't make them anymore" and wasn't really into figuring out what the do have that might work. Oh well I guess I expect to much or something? (sarcasm) He did say I could probaly find them in a junk yard and that I just need to keep my eyes open YEA RIGHT lol oh well I have better things to $pend money on, like a new windshield and Exhaust!!

I just called them and they don't have it so if anyone finds one or has one lemme know!

I've had the same experience and even replaced the wiper motor and those bushings. I read somewhere that it might be the part of the wiper assembly where you attach the wiper arms to (the spindles?) So today I pulled out the assembly, and hosed the spindles down with PB Blast, worked the oil in, made sure the new bushings had grease in them, and worked that all in. When I put it all back in the truck there was improvement. I wouldn't say vast improvement but I can tell the difference between high and low now so that is somewhat of an improvement over the barley moving at any speed I had previously. try it!

Here's the link for future reference Looks like ol'Jeepy found another way to $pend my money

Awesome thanks Gjeep!

In my Jeep I have a PWR SLIDER - C.R. Laurence Co., Inc. assemble but I do not have the motor. Before I go on the hunt I thought I'd post up here to see if anyone has this, if it is stock and if someone can help a downed bro with a used/working motor Here is the gear in the Mechanism where the motor gets attached to Here is the mechanism assembly Here is the cable where it attaches to my rear window Here's the MFG info on the mechanism Any info is appreciated, even a part no would be helpful, thanks guys!