gl1200aman

www.teamcherokee.com has the complete 87-90 oem hose kit with the metal T for $55.95 plus S&H. I have purchased this in the past and the hoses are preformed (curved) and have the different sized ends as needed.

Philbert001.....If the original poster does not want your unit I would like to get it. Name the $$ to 53218

I bid $95.00 and had that but in the last minute the bids shot up.

The original tee had compression type clamps connecting the hoses. It never has reusable clamps.

Did you change the sending units? There are different sending units for the gauges and dummy lights.

Check the fins between the tubes. All the jeep 4.0 radiators that I have had go bad where the cooling fins separate from the tubes. I always replace with a 2 row, it may be more than needed but I figure the thermostat can control the flow and maintain the temp. A single row may work fine depending on your area, ambient temp, driving habits, and traffic patterns. I also get the all metal radiators and stay away from those with plastic end caps.

From what I have seen it could, it controls the fuel richness. I had one that idled low and one that reved to 1800 rpm's. Cleaning them did not help so I replaced them and they worked great. When I replaced them I also drove them at 40 mph or faster for 20 min. which helps them self adjust. Have you checked the MAP sensor or the TPS?

map sensor? Maybe the IAC is bad? I have tried to clean them on the 2 comanche's that I bought and it didn't help but after replacing them they worked good. www.teemcherokee.com has them for just under $57 plus shipping.

It sounds like you are talking about the vacuum cluster/connector on the backside of the heater control. it doesn't have to be completely out to not work. It can be partially dislodged/disconnected and not work because of the gap between the two pieces. You can see all the vacuum lines connecting to the plastic connector, just push it in and make sure it is completely seated.

The CPS does control the spark. It tells the dist. the flywheel position. bad cps = no spark. I have seen some used e-brake release handles/cables listed here and on ebay.

it is probably the TPS (throttle position sensor). I had a similar problem on my 90. I replaced the TPS and adjusted it per specs for an automatic and it continued to happen. I then adjusted it for a manual trans and it works good.

I had one of mine stuck like the hood was closed and the latch was holding the pin when the hood was open. I took the latch off and cleaned it up and finangled the parts to open it. The problem is that it kept doing that if the hood did not completely close each time. I did the easy thing and ordered new one through teamcherokee. Here is a link to the parts if you are interested. Only 29.95 plus shipping for both. http://www.teamcherokee.com/Engine_Latch_Cable/index.html

i used the part number (52000861) of the release that I ordered through the dealer here in Milwaukee for my 88 comanche laredo and found this site that has them. hope it is the same for yours or who ever else needs one. http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog.html?gclid=CI2JvbmKxakCFUa8Kgodc13KJQ Here is another one http://www.chryslerpartscenter.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=215327

what 3 radio's do you have? Do you hear anything from it? static? Look at the control knobs. the squelch will cut down what you receive/hear. turn it all the way to the left/counter clockwise. Rf gain will also limit what it picks up. turn it all the way right/clockwise. Is the internal speaker good? Did the previous owner disconnect it? Try to hook an external speaker up to the rear jack. The radio is a big part of the system but the coax and antenna are crucial because they transmit the signal. you can have a top notch radio but get nothing if the coax and antenna are bad.

there is a relay for the a/c on the right inner fender. it should be the last one to the rear. Is there a chance that the vacuum connector for the heat/a/c control in the dash came loose? if it did, it may not be telling it to turn on.

As for the cable, if it was wobbling up and down then quit it is the cable. It connects to the output/tail of the transfer case.

Did you check the fuel pump relay on the right inner fender? there are 4 relays between the starter relay and the diagnostic connectors. from front to back they are oxygen sensor heater relay, fuel pump relay, power latch relay, a/c clutch relay. If all are ok it may be a broken wire.

As the previous post stated, there are a few options for the brake system. The height sensing valve was designed to reduce how much the brakes are applied when the truck is used without a load/weight in the bed to help prevent lock up. The link you made is a big factor in the setup. How that rod holds the valve determines how much brake fluid pressure reaches the rear brakes. If set wrong you could get too much (lockup) or no pressure to the rear brakes.

Teamcherokee has the bolts. $20 for the pair. May have shipping included. Here is a Link to the page with the bolts and straps: http://www.teamcherokee.com/Fuel_System/index.html

Thanks for the reply. I did assume there could be some drop with age but was hoping that there was a way to correct it or a part that controls the voltage to replace. I have it adjusted to run pretty good.

I used the 4.0 jeep renix fuel injection manual that was referenced in another post to try and adjust the TPS on the 90 comanche that I recently bought. It stated that using a digital multimeter the reading between wires A and D should read 5V and then adjust so the reading between wires B and D should be 4.15 giving 83%. I only get 4.67V between wires A and D. I adjusted it to the 83% per the manual and it jerks/sputters worse. I now adjusted the reading between wires B and D to the 4.15V and it runs pretty good. The battery is fully charged. The questions I have is: Why would the voltage between wires A and D be 4.67 and not 5V as stated in the manual? What controls that voltage? Could the lower input voltage be the problem?

I have a 1990 jeep comanche with the 4.0 and the automatic trans. While trying to replace the TPS the bottom screw snapped off.. I am looking for a replacement throttle body and hopefully the 2 screws that hold the TPS in place. Let me know how much with shipping to 53218

Nice truck but a little pricey.

The blue smoke could be from the valve stems or rings. Replacing the head with a good one, valve job better, may fix it. If not you may need to rebuild it. Last quote I got in WI. for a rebuilt installed was around $2100.

Maybe a serious short. The battery would have to be totally shot to drain all the power that the alternator was generating like that. If the vehicle is running the alternator should be putting out enough power to run it with the battery disconnected.