gl1200aman

Just to help the last post. It it the whitish ceramic resistor on the driver side inner fender and has 2 wires going to it. Others have said that you can remove the wires and jump the two with a jumper wire to see if it works.

The insulation is all inside the heater core / a/c evaporator housing so I assumed there is some type of insulation inside the housing. I was hoping to find a new piece of insulation because as it is now I feel allot of heat while driving it. I already have a new carpet with backing I bought off ebay to install.

It may have in the past. I bought it a few months ago in Carson City, NV and the seller had very little history and I found out omitted or lied about the condition. Just hoping to find out if and where I can get a new piece and where it goes.

The heater fan was blowing fuses so I bought a new one and while replacing it I noticed there is felt type insulation in the hole. I also found the shredded insulation filling the door under the dash on the pass. side. Where is this insulation from? Is a new replacement piece available and from where? The main thing is to find out where the insulation is from. Is it from inside the heater housing?

By law it is illegal to alter the odometer reading of a vehicle but you can changeout an odometer and as the trooper said, with the same mileage. Reallity is that with a vehicle that old most do not question it. Supposedly, if you turn/alter the numbers on the odometer they will not line up. Similar to when the older ones maxed out and tuned over to 0000000.

The thermostat should be put back in. Without the thermostat the coolant circulates too fast which does not absorb enough heat from the engine and does not lose enough heat through the radiator. I drove from Carson City, NV and had high temp problems and when I got back to WI. I found it had no thermostat. I put in a thermostat and it stays cool in stop and go traffic in 80+ weather.

there may be cheaper ones out there but I have seen them available at www.teamcherokee.com. As many have posted here on other posts you can also try the salvage yards but I figure it is best to replace with new because you don't know how long the used will last.

Yes I was talking about the strip that goes around the door opening and attaches to the body. I think it would be hard for a large amount of water to get between the door and door panel. What little amount of water that gets past the wiperstrips at the bottom of the glass will usually exit the door through the door drain holes. While you have the door panels off it is a good idea to check and clean the drain holes. With the window up look inside the door at the bottom (horizontal) metal where it meets the outer skin and you should see the holes. If not clean the debris out because it retains moisture which will aid/cause rust.

Are you sure it is because of the plastic sheet missing/torn? Sounds like it may be the weather strip door seal. I did not make new ones for mine. I ordered them from http://www.teamcherokee.com but many people on here think they are high priced.

This is the e-mail I sent to the seller: Is the mileage stated accurate or maybe a typo? 35,600? Do you still have the original radio? How about the electrical connector/plug for the original radio? Any rust on the undercarriage? Would it be able to drive cross country when purchased? Here is his response: the mileage is correct at 35,600. Not a typo. I do not have any of the original radio and don't know iif the connedtor fot the original radio is still intact. (the radio was changed out/added by my father-in-law when he was driving. Only minor surface rust on undercarriage. Before I would travel any great distance, the truck would need a battery, probably adjust the hydraulic clutch, and replace the tires, and check all of the mechanicals.

Don't know if it would be worth it but you could get the title and keys when he gets to Scaramento, title in your name and then get it out of impound. If he broke down and abandoed it by the roadside they will tow it, but depending on that states law, you have time to retrieve it. It may be a little pricey for the tow and storage.

Have you checked the temp sensor for the elec. fan? How about the thermostat? I have an 88 4.0 and I put in a new 2 row radiator and thermostat and in 88 deg. stop and go traffic the temp is not effected, stays around 195.

Check the simplest possibility, did you put the bulb in wrong? One of the side nipples that hold the bulb in is further down than the other. If you have it 180 off the tail light is bright (brake light).

The 88 4.0L filter is upside down. I am guessing, but think there should be, that there is a check valve in the mount to prevent the oil from draining back out. Maybe it is stuck open. I will try to find out if there is a check valve or if someone else knows maybe they can say.

Sorry to hear the bad news. Some of those parts are still available in the JY's. If you want new I have seen them on Ebay.

I found that Napa and advanced auto have the idle speed control motor. Look on the websites for the auto parts stores near you, many have a search feature by vehicle to find parts they have/carry. If you stand in front of the jeep it is on the front left of the throttle body. There is one wire connector and held on with 2 torx screws. It would be best if you take the old one along to compare because the counter person could grab the wrong one (different wire connector) and since it is an electrical part, unreturnable.

Just curious, is it possible that you have mixed parts? Maybe a you installed some flat parts with some concave parts? If the flywheel and pressure plate are flat and the clutch disk is concave when you apply the clutch it does not completely disengage because the disk returns to concave and contacts the flywheel or pressure plate. Another thought is whether the clutch disk was flipped when installed. Maybe the flywheel side of the clutch disk is facing the pressure plate. It may be a huge hassle but it may be the best solution to pull it apart and double check everything.

That could be, I never looked at the xj setup. It worked for me so I thought it might help, sorry if it was wrong. The only difference I saw was the float arm/wire was a little different and the tube/pipe was a little shorter from the large circle mount to where it curves down to the pump. I installed it and it pumped fuel. I did have to reseat it to get the float to miss the pan inside the tank.

What does not fit? Try northern auto parts in Ia. I got a new complete assembly for an 88 comanche laredo form them. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ECatal ... %20VIN%20L

I ordered a new pump through northern auto parts in IA. They take c/c over the phone and their number is 800-831-0884 or order by website. I looked on line and then called them to make sure I got the right one. I did a quick look for a 1990 pioneer 4.0L and they have just the pump for 77.67 and the complete pump w/ gauge for 139.90 Here is a link: http://www.northernautoparts.com/ECatal ... %20VIN%20L

Yes, I go to an actual locksmith to get keys made. He actually was able to make the keys for the doors and glove box by pulling the lock on the glove box and was pretty cheap. I had bought a replacement ignition switch off ebay and already installed that into the truck and if I remember right you need the key to r&r the ignition. Call me anal but the new column has a chrome switch instead of the black. I also assumed that the column from a 88 cherokee with an automatic trans and floor shifter would be the same.

Did you get the bumper from Ebay? If not I have one in Milwaukee. Depending on where you are, I go to Florida weekly.

Got a steering column friday. It is gray and has the chrome plated int. wipers, cruise and looks like leather wrap. May be a little pricey at $100 but they also pulled it out and includes all the shafts and joints to the gear box. Now I need to take it to the locksmith and see if he can make a key or pull the ignition. I also checked with the dealer and that short speedo cable is no longer available so I grabbed an extra one. I will try to get a picture later but now I see there are two raised bars to squeeze for removal.

No I did not work on the speedo because I leave saturdays and get home thursday. Will try tomorrow. I think the column was switched because the black color does not match the gray interior. Will rty to get pics this weekend. Also because of all the butchering he has done with the wiring. He said the elec. fan would turn on and off randomly so he cut the wires and put in a toggle switch. I told him that the fan is set that way. DUH.

I bought my 88 off of ebay, had listed at 120k but showed 293K, and drove it from Carson City,NV to Milwaukee, WI. I used 2 qts of oil and was getting 20 mpg. The previous owner had installed a toggle switch for the electric fan which I left on all the time. I was cruising at 65-70 mph across I-80 until I got to NE. where the air temp was in the 70's and 30-40 mph cross winds gusting to 60, then the temp gauge was touching the 215 mark so I slowed down to 55-60 mph. When i slowed down I was getting just over 21 mpg. When i got back I ordered a new radiator and thermostat. When I was replacing them I found the culprit was that there was no thermostat in it. Since replacing them it has had no problem with heat. Last week I was driving in 80 degrees and stop and go traffic and the temp stayed around 190-195 without the electric fan. I need to rewire the fan to work off of the sensor now. With the advise given and the history you gave I would drive it on that trip no problem. Just watch your gauges. Have a good and safe trip.