gl1200aman

Have you thought of removing the line at the front fitting and putting a plug in the hole? There may be enough air in the crimped line.

That is a pretty hefty price tag and I doubt anyone could afford it as a "toy". maybe for someone into the competitions.

The haynes manual says to do the rr first then lr and then do the rf and lf last. If you just crimped the rear lines there may be air in the line between the master and the crimp. Did you make sure to keep the master full during the bleeding? If not, you may have fluid coming out but there may be air bubbles in the line between.

The general public are idiots most of the time. They cut off semi's all the time. I have never figured it out but they can't be behind a truck so they speed up and cut us off and then slow down to a speed slower than the semi was going originally. They also pass and when they get 2 feet passed the bumper they cut over and sometimes hit the brakes. Like I said, idiots

Someone had mentioned there is a ground under the dash on the driver side and another mentioned that the main ground that usually attaches by the dipstick mount. You may also want to check the wire connectors that go to the back to make sure they are making good contact.

There are clips holding the window trim on from under the trim. there are many different tools available. Here is a link to one that should be able to be homemade fairly easily with directions for the process for a buick but the directions on using the tool for the clips is similar. http://www.buickperformance.com/glassremove.htm

Yes the cowl trim is held on by screws and requires the removal of the wiper arms. By the other posts I assumed that I was mistaken and followed the other replies. My bad. sorry.

Interesting. On my 88 there was a loose wire in the dash that blew the fuse for the dash lights and that also took out my tail lights. The brake lights are a separate fuse. Check the ground behind the tail light assembly. IIRC it is behind the left one.

I thought he was saying to buy the relay used for $10 off of ebay and was asking why. The link I posted has the relay with the 4 male spade terminals and 1 screw for $19.95 and it is new.

May be an extra expense but you can get a tool to remove the trim without breaking the clips. If you are handy enough and have a pair of tin snips you can go see what they look like and make your own with a piece of flat sheet metal.

I compared the pictures to my 88 and found these results: 1st appears to be for the oil pressure sending unit. 2nd In that area the only connector like that with those color wires connect to the heater blower fan and come from the larger harness by the battery. 3rd & 4th Go to the cruise servo thingy. If you look on the firewall to the right of the coolant bottle you will see the three holes that were used to mount it.

why pay $10 for a used one when you can buy a new one for $19.95?

"turn the key and there's nothing" Do you mean the starter engages but does not turn the motor or as I interpret it that the starter does nothing at all? If it does nothing then check the wires and relays.

There are many possibilities and a few are............. The seal around the windshield is loose or worse the metal is rusted and flaking, hole in the firewall not plugged or sealed, hole in floorboard (s) and splashing up from tires.

I have the 4.0 I6 and there is a temp sensor in the radiator that turns the fan on when it gets too warm. It is on the driver side towards the bottom of the end cap. There are the wires coming off of it and if I remember correctly it looks to be around 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

I had seen in an earlier post that someone had listed the part number for the 4.0 cps mod kit but i can not find it now. Does anyone know the part number for the mod kit?

The picture shows the 4 prongs and it is 19.95 plus S&H. You can also call them to verify it is the right one. (262) 658-2268 They are in Kenosha, WI. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=starter+relay&catid=95

Yeah, when I had that problem and replaced mine it said to disconnect the battery. Then drive it at 40 for like 20 minutes to let the ecm set it correctly. I went on the highway for a longer time frame and it worked.

that is the one I have. Thanks for the link.

I have the CPS rewire instructions to rewire directly to ECM with pictures in a pdf file available. I tried to post it but the pictures and formatting do not appear. PM me with an e-mail and I can send it out to anyone that needs/wants it. Maybe someone else knows how to post it. Someone else posted alink to it so I am including it here for anyone. http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/CPS-87-90-update.pdf

In the service bulletin for the CPS wire update that wire is called "bare-braided knock sensor drain wire" and the other end is by the ECM. Appears to have been that way from the factory.

Seller says rear main seal bad. ?????? http://racine.craigslist.org/cto/1885004827.html

If you don't want a bunch of modifications on mounts and wiring the easiest is to replace it with what it already has. You can pull yours and have it redone, buy another at a salvage yard, or buy one already rebuilt. It all depends on your skills, availability of replacement, machine shops available. As stated above, you won't know how bad yours is until you see what it looks like inside. It depends on how long it has been run like that. If it spun the bearing and you stop running it the damage may be minimal but if you kept driving it a while it will have more damage. A few years back I had an 88 with the 4.0 I6 and a place in Milw. wanted $2100 to pull mine a install a fresh rebuild with a 1 year warranty or I could buy it for $1800 and install it myself but no warranty. I found one for $200 at a salvage yard that was rebuilt and swapped it myself.

You could put a set of air shocks in the rear for the extra lift when loaded.

Just to give you the answer to the starter question. When the starter spins the bendix or starter gear moves outward to engage the flywheel. If the starter does not spin fast enough it may not move outward or the bendix could have broke. New or rebuilt starters can last a long time or die quick.