Incommando

And we haven't? :brows: Yet strangely Putin is more popular and powerful than our POTUS I think we generally beat Russia in the medal counts don't we? I know it was a special pleasure to blow up the Canucks on their home turf a few years ago...

Just some options: Barnes4wd offers anti-wrap spring perches for $26 & Shock tabs for $14 ( $5 if you want to weld the yourself) for a $15 savings on quality parts. They also offer a Pirate discount. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Anti-Wrap-Leaf-Spring-Perch-Pair-30-Axle-Tube-2-34-Wide-Leaf-Spring_p_89.html As the MJ-specific CAD brackets are $205 or more an option would be IRO's upper/lower fixed control arm set for $249. This also eliminates the weak-ish stock arms and the need to source/modify WJ arms if you are going to use this lift off-road. Much less work (especially for those of us in the rust belt) and eliminates the debate over the CAD clearance issues. As many of us who have used curved lower controls arms will attest your ride with them is fine with good springs and shocks. Also remember that the original CAD kit recommended ( $158) was cited for on-road use only per the creator of the lift ( post #69) and additional bracing in the form of kit RE9905 for $85 is needed for the lift to be off-road worthy. That makes the CAD option from the original parts list here $233 to use it off-road. That is only $16 less than the IRO control arms before the aforementioned control arm issues. IMHO the IRO kit is a no-brainer unless you want a street truck. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SHDCA&Category_Code=XSP It looks like to do this lift and make it off-road worthy while adding shocks to the list would add at least $250 (basic shocks $140 + brace kit $85+ whatever for JY control arms) to the $600 price. Realistically this lift would be hard to do while making it off-road worthy for less than about $850. Using the Bilstein shocks cited instead of the basic shocks in the $250 increase number would make this kit over $1,000. To be fair the creator was up-front about the shocks and the price variance depending on your needs but most off-the-shelf kits, the most popular lift option, include them even on the SOA kits such as this $550 Rusty's SOA kit w/shocks. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-mj-comanche-4-5-spring-over-kit.html . This is a great effort but, as with any lift or mod, you will need to know what you want out of your lift before choosing what is right for you.

I have used their stuff with no issues and so have friends. I think if you check most of their bad press is 8 years old or older. Their standard front springs for the 3" lift are soft with a bias for a plusher ride but the HD versions are a no cost upgrade. Are they the best in the world? No. But for their price point they are decent. Avoid Rough Country. Their bad rep is earned.

Tires: Full tread-20/32nds and nicely siped The old quarter shot hard to tell from the pic but the sidewall lugs are pretty deep Image Not Found

I IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM ENDORSE THIS COMPANY BUT... MJ specific CAD brackets http://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-control-arm-drop.html space down. $205 as of this date

Bridgestone owns Firestone and it is a Japanese company. Bridgestone was a copy of Firestone, like many post-war japanese products, and now they own Firestone and have for 25+ years. http://www.bridgestonetire.com/about/who-we-are Goodyear merged with Sumitomo Rubber Industries Ltd. of Japan in 1997 and have headquarters in both countries. Sumitomo previously bought out Dunlop. So is Goodyear American? That is a tough call. Cooper is the most American of all of the major brands and makes a dandy product. Many private label tires are made by others and most are made in China. Cooper does make a few under the Mud Claw & Wild Country brands but I don't know where they are produced.

And...it is back. The CJ project went way crazy ( D60 front locked/ rear shaved 14 bolt locked/360/t18/D20/38.5" tires) got almost done, and then got sold. So...back to the MJ! I have put another 10K miles on it and it runs like a top. I have the 4x4 AW4 and a later fixed-yoke 231 for it. I also have an XJ 8.25 & matching D30. The plan is a mild wheeler on a mild lift with just the addition of a drop-in rear locker. The tires came today: Buckshot XMT Mudders in 265/75/r16 (32x10.5 or so). Mounted on KJ rims they will fit nicely. The tires: They look great in person. I got them for $609 including shipping from NTWOnline and they arrived within 2 days of my ordering them. I will post pics of the actual tires soon.

Just for clarity they also put a high-pinion D30 front under the YJ and it is not an easy swap.

It looks to be an older Ford but I never paid much attention to the weaker D44's & D60's from the early 70's- back. The drivers drop eliminates a GM or pre-'94 Dodge. And '80-up J20 would have such a driver's drop but I am 90% sure that they use a chevy-style locking hub. Early Fords did use such a lock-out and from my memory that is a replacement hub design that differs from a factory set. Breaking those hubs was not uncommon so a 40 year old axle set could be expected to have aftermarket parts. A measurement of the axle from WMS-WMS would be the easiest way to ID this axle. Well, into the ballpark anyway. Early D44's have weaker axles, u-joints, and smaller spline counts and aren't worth fooling with. The info on the brakes appears incorrect. As with most trucks there are different GVWR's within each break-down: half-ton, 3/4-ton. 1-ton. Light-duty F250's appear to have had single piston front calipers while the higher GVWR version got you duals. To prove this randomly select a year, say 1977 F250, on RockAuto and punch in "calipers."

So why would you do business with a tire company that is admittedly screwing you by overcharging unless you can find a better deal to force their hand? If they can sell at a lower price why don't they? Because they stick it to anyone without a comparative price. If that is who you want to do business with fine. I prefer folks with more integrity. Walmart is the cheapest place to mount and balance tires near me, too. They are often about 1/2 of what the tire places charge. If you are going over-sized you will need to take the tires and rims in while off of the vehicle. They are not supposed to install non-factory sizes onto vehicles. The "newer used" is a great way to go because many people buy a tire size they do not like, a tire type the do not like, and the hard-core guys swap them out quickly as the tires are best when new. Bridgestone is a Japanese company that owns numerous brands and makes tires all over the world. It is funny because those of us who are old enough remember that the Japanese got their start ripping off everyone they could. Bridgestone began as a Firestone rip-off and now they own Firestone. Your Goodrich's are also foreign owned by Michelin ( France.) Both Bridgestone and Michelin ( remember them? The owners of BFGoodrich?) manufacture tires in *China* as does Goodyear and probably 90% of international labels. MAXXIS, which has a large following, is an entirely Chinese owned company the Cheng-Shin Rubber Ind. Co.,Ltd. ​As to the question at hand: I have bought tires locally, from TireRack, and I bought 4 mud tires for the MJ Tuesday 2/4/14 from NTWOnline.com. They were delivered today 2/6/14. I have had things I like and dislike about them all. If you buy a Chinese made tire try to stay with one made by the big companies and not a home-grown Chinese brand. Michelin, Bridgetone, etc... have their own plants in China and control of the product as well as in interest in maintaining their quality. Testing has shown the higher end Chinese-made tires to equal their rivals made elsewhere while the cheapest all-Chinese tire, like home brands in Eastern Europe for example, suck.

No it wouldn't. I broke into the high 10's ( but dialed 11:30 in ET) in a 4,300# sled with less than $5,000 invested. It was a modified stocker with everything done at home but some machine work in less than a month. He has been building this thing for 20 years!! I did nothing but oil changes & basic tune-up on it for three years while racing it every weekend. He blows batteries and circuits regularly. How much cash and labor do you think is invested in that tiny Datsun? What do you think the upkeep runs dollar wise? How fast would the drive train from my Plymouth be in that toy import? 8's? Until it ripped it in half? I noted that it does not met any NHRA safety standards for 10's, either. The fact that this is from the Left coast and on a PBS show and avoids hard questions isn't shocking either, Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. There are people who think 2-stroke powered skate boards are cool, too.

it would give a tree hugger a seizure

Avoid Rough Country like the plague. Poor products and worse customer service. If you search on here you will find out that the only reason their cheerleaders like them is that they may send you free stuff when the inevitably screw up. Iron Rock off road rocks and Rustys has their fans. RockyRoad over states their products and has been known to rip people off.

Places like Moser engineering will make what about ever shaft you want or convert your current flange.

The width of the J10/J120/Wide-track Cherokee axles was about 5" +/- wider than an MJ. The narrow-track Cherokee and Wagoneer are closer to a match in width at about 60" +/-. The rear swap is as easy as cutting off the perches and welding new ones in the correct place and adding shock mounts where needed but that would leave you with either a 6x5.5 lug pattern on a D44 or M23 or 8x6.5 pattern on the D60 (ignoring the early D60's and D44's as they are significantly weaker than the later versions. ) As the MJ has a 5x4.5 lug pattern and I know of no adapter to make them match nor an easily/cheaply adapted 6x5.5 or 8x6.5 matching front axle that would be a deal breaker for me. The FSJ corporate axle was actually the Model 23 to differentiate it from the trouble-plagued model 20. I have not been able to get anyone to confirm if the MJ had the 2-piece axle shaft M20 like the CJ or the stronger 1-piece axle shafted M23. It is easy to tell the difference by the flat hub center on the one-piece M23 and the spindle protruding on an unconverted M20.

When drag racing we would measure the roll-out distance of each slick to get as close to a matched set as possible before purchase but I don't think your local tire dealer will do that. This is pretty important when the front tires are off of the ground for 60' or so. Tire pressure was matched within a 10th of a pound. That being said this car was only moving for business for about 9 seconds at a time. I don't think getting things that tight is very necessary for a street car or 4x4. I have had no trouble driving straight in 4wd on a hard surface. It is the turning that causes the binding but the same is true with a locked axle: in a turn the inside wheel will travel further than the outside wheel causing binding in the differential. All that the transfer case amounts to is a diff. Sidewall stiffness varies with pressure, as well, so having matched tires of a similar pressure seems even more important with a locked axle, especially a welded one. Just to clarify in both the axle and the transfer case it is the turning that causes the binding and not the possibility of a negligible gear ratio difference front to rear .

The largest factory ratio difference of which I am aware is 4.27/4.30. It works fine. If anyone tries to tell you that a few hundredths makes a difference you should laugh at them. The actual difference between 4.10 & 4.11 is so small ( probably smaller than the wear differentiation on poorly maintained tires) that it makes no noticeable effect on driving, handling, tire wear, or anything else. As only a final drive ratio that includes tire height consideration is important you can surely use tire height to make up for a 3.55 front and 4.10 rear. A 26" front & 35" rear should make that work for you and not look stupid at all... :-)

You didn't miss anything. No one is confirmed to have received any discounted ARB's.

i never read their terms and conditions, but would imagine it says somewhere they have the right to cancel any order that was improperly priced. but then again if they ship it out the door before they realize what happened... http://autopartswarehouse.com - They have the same SKUs for roughly $11 cheaper. This seems like it is a drop ship pricing issue from ARB themselves. Both JCW and APW do not carry them in stock. Someone put a RD109 in my cart and hit order... >_> No longer offered

Can't add it to my basket Per phone rep: They are listing them all as "out of stock" now and will not let you order one. Nor will the assure that price when they come back in. This price may or may not have been honored at all per the rep. If there is a serious pricing error they take remove them from stock until corrected

I noticed your sig says you have 4.10's in a D44. As long as the donor R&P matches the carrier you currently have or you get the carrier with the donor R&P you are golden. The BEST gear ratio that you could hope for in a last gen FSJ was 3.55 so unless the gears/carrier were swapped in the donor FSJ its R&P will not match the carrier in your sig line.

if you can't find an XJ donor easily about any will do. Just find a stand-alone handbrake with a mini console or boot so that the mechanism doesn't show & grab the cable from the handbrake. Measure and get cables that will run from your brakes to the front cable. Last one I put into a CJ was from a Rabbit IIRC

Seriously..Listen to these guys. A D35 is not worth fixing. Get an 8.25 if you can match your ratio. 4.10's were behind the 4-bangers. Try to get a 96.5-newer for the 29 spline shafts. A Ford Explorer 8.8 is stronger still and easier to find in 4.10. Another plus is rear disc brakes. it will require some brake line plumbing but both axles will require spring pads being welded on. The 8.8 will also need spacers as it is a tad narrower and an adapter for the u-joint. You sometimes see D44's out there but people want stupid prices for them and they really aren't that much better than the much cheaper 8.25.

People still use IE? :peek: All kidding aside I have found that, for me at least, Chrome blows IE out of the water and also works more smoothly than Firefox.

The wheelbarrow needs its TPMS checked