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Everything posted by Incommando
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I had a Garnet & Silver '86 Shelby Charger that I bought new. Those claimed MPG numbers are impressive as my stock version could not achieve nearly those numbers from its 2.2 Turbo. Wouldn't the same money invested in that Musclang or vette as the 4banger get you a much faster version of either of those two as compared to their 11-second versions? With a few hours notice I can be driving a daily-driver '01 C5 that will run low 9's in the quarter and get 25 mpg highway out of 427 cid. For about $5k I had an entirely streetable ( by swapping tires and exhaust) Road Runner that would run 11.30's all day while weighing an elephantine 4,300 pounds. I wonder what the torque figures for the 800 hp 2.0L were and at what RPM? Would it launch that lead sled of mine without a tremendous clutch dump or even then? I have posted this before but here is an 1,800 RPM launch that would pull both front wheels with an the original 25 year old suspension on a good run: I can't see even the 800hp 2.0 doing that to that car but I will admit that I could be dead wrong. My car only has 530hp at the flywheel ( but 560 tq at that 1,800 rpms), though. Theoretically the same drivetrain in a Demon body would be mid-10 second car.
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Well an XJ would look like this (if I remember right) after 7 rolls at 45 mph. And yes she's fine, she walked away with a broken figure. Sorry for the tinny picture, it was texted to me a couple years ago when I first got my xj. It was my female friend at the time, best friend Image Not Found I am happy to hear of her good fortune on the injury front. That flattened roof is oh so common in XJ rollovers ( and probably our MJ's, too, I just lack evidence) and usually occurs during the first roll or two. Then as long was your body is below the beltline after the failure you have the stronger portion of the body protecting you. Imagine being tightly strapped to a high-back bucket as that roof caved... If the roof bent you back or didn't bend you at all and you took the full force of the collapse...
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I am sure someone will cite some scientific treatises disproving it but saying that torque is is not a measure of power is misleading. How do you "twist" something without power? How do engines that increase that twisting force at very low RPM's, such as a CTD, have such huge power in the form of the work performed, such as moving at 15,000# trailer at 800 RPM's, at well below the RPM range that most other engines require to equal that number? As power is a measure of the work performed than that twisting must be power as it effects work independently of horsepower. The first CTD's made a measly 160 hp yet had 400#'s of TQ at 800 rpm. If RPM related horsepower is all that matters hook your turbo 4cyl Fiat 500 Abarth to that trailer mentioned above. It should pull it just fine, right? It didn't? How is that possible? The Fiat makes the same 160 horsepower at a much higher RPM so it must be more powerful, yes?Theatricals do not always apply apples to apples, do they? Torque at the drive wheels is the power that moves the vehicle, plain and simple. Most really high horsepower 4 bangers have to use high RPMs due to a lack of torque "power" at lower RPM's. Look at the peak torgue of one of these hi-po 4banger versus that CTD or even one of our beloved 4.0's and you will see what I mean. Your peak performance not only comes from engine power but from proper gearing which includes tire size. Properly matching the engine/transmission/ring gear ratio/tire size is required for peak performance yet the definition of peak performance changes according to your goal. If smokey burn outs impress you and you want to do some epic ones in an MJ/XJ change your gears to 4.88's, throw some 23" tall 185/65/14's on it, and they will roll smoke until you run out of gas. Just remember that as you sit there spinning you are not efficiently moving forward. A simple fact is that the extreme 4bangers also sacrifice longevity for performance. This is much like the most extreme v8's, the NHRA top fuel classes, except the V8's engine make 7,500 horsepower and 6,000 foot pounds of torque out of 500 cubic inches. I have yet to see a 4banger touch those numbers in a car-like application. The much longer lasting naturally aspirated pro-stock engines are also limited to 500 CID but make about 1,500 hp and 1,000 #.' Notice that no 4bangers compete at the top levels of drag racing? It is no wonder why. Extreme RPM performance cars are very rare from the factory for many reasons. Drivability issues are one reason as they make such little power at low RPM's (aka they lack torque) that light-to-light traffic is a pain. Another issue is the generally poor efficiency, emissions, and reliability. Look no further than Mazda's craptastic RX8 for an example. There is no replacement for displacement. Very rarely are you going to achieve numbers for a small displacement engine that the same mods would not produce much higher numbers in a larger displacement engine (which also conversely generally creates more torque at a lower RPM range.) Although you can make relatively big power out of a 4banger the question is "why" when for the same time and cost you can probably have a much more powerful engine or you can have equal performance to the 4banger while using much less time and money and achieving greater reliability. Definitions from one discipline do not necessarily directly translate to all disciplines directly. Google "power" to see the various different definitions depending on subject matter.
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"Hate" is such a strong word... you are hilarious and all but if you keep this kind of shenanigans up we rust-belters may feel the need to descend upon you en masse.
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While your point is very valid a 10 second web search showed the difference for a lunch-box locker to be as little as $30 and the same brand of ring & pinions resulted in a $20 difference. I don't think you can buy the MJ or XJ D44 for $50 more than an 8.25 unless you are very very lucky.
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3.31's In an MJ meaning that it came with the optional heavy duty rear axle AND the super economy package? I don't think so. There is really no way to show what this axle came from without running down the numbers. Maybe the guy was told it was from an MJ and is going by that? As YJ's did not come with 3.31 gears that I can find this axle makes no sense. Both front AND the rear of a YJ would have to be re-geared to the pretty crappy 3.31's for this story to be true. And is it un-assembled because the pieces really do not go together? Is it some CJ/YJ/MJ combo that cannot be assembled to work together? Did he try to assemble it only to find this out and now he is trying to unload it? The B.S. line that completely disassembling the axle makes it easier to move would be enough by itself to make me pass this by... 88whitemancheIsuzu D4's are great but have the wrong built pattern. Grand D44's have an aluminum center section and other differences from the regular D44 and are not well regarded. Many consider them no better than the D35 and certainly worse than an 8.25/ From another post: "IMHO the MJ D44 is generally drastically overpriced and is only valuable to a restorer and not worthwhile for a 'wheeler. For less than $100 you can have a nearly as strong XJ 8.25 that just needs a $20 perch swap. For $150 you can have an arguably stronger 8.8 with factory disc brakes including a parking brake. Get one with an LSD and add an extra clutch disc for near locker-like performance with less of a decrease in road manners." By far the cheapest and easiest route to junk a junk D35 is an XJ 8.25. You can match your exiting 4.10 gear ratio with some searching ( it is much eaier to find 3.55's) and it is nearly bolt in if you can weld or know someone who can. If you get a newer 8.25 with the 29-spline shafts most folks consider it a toss up as far as strength with a D44. It may be a little more expensive to go with the an Explorer 8.8 but a 4.10/4.11 gear ratio is more common then in the 8.25 and you wind up with an even stronger axle with disc brakes
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Feel free to disagree but as you seem to be looking for opinions on pricing I will add mine. What does "built" mean? Assembled with all new parts? A mix of new and used parts? Receipts to prove when the parts were purchased for "new" stuff? To som ebuying a pair of used lockers and a set of used gears and installing them qualifies as them being "built." To others nothing short of a complete re-build including all new bearings qualifies. Without knowing these things it is hard to estimate a price. Going from the post: The front is equal to a late model XJ front with the addition of gears, a lunchbox locker ( and about the cheapest on the market which does become a factor), and a truss of some sort. The basic front goes for $100 or less here. The truss is an unknown without knowing more about it. Homebuilt? If not, whose? Rep of that part & builder? Does it gusset the "c's?" Even though it has low miles on it used is used. Used gears and lockers do not sell for what new ones do. The value of a front non-selectable locker in an axle without lock-out hubs is the subject of much debate. It will not be solved here so that places the value of a locker in this axle up to the desire of the purchaser. The spare shafts also appear to be junkyard factory pieces from the description. Although admittedly the joints fail most often in these axles the factory shafts are still consider suspect by many especially with the added stress of a locker. IMHO the MJ D44 is generally drastically overpriced and is only valuable to a restorer and not worthwhile for a 'wheeler. For less than $100 you can have a nearly as strong 8.25 that just needs a $20 perch swap. For $150 you can have an arguably stronger 8.8 with factory disc brakes including a parking brake, which is not mentioned as being on the D44 here. Get one with an LSD and add an extra clutch disc for near locker-like performance with less of a decrease in road manners. Line-loc's and the sort are not legal replacements for the required mechanical secondary brake here and I doubt they are legal most anywhere. So there goes street driving on that rear axle, at least legally. I have purchased and assembled a D60 front/14bolt rear combo including new spartan lockers and a new disc brake kit that included parking brake calipers for less than $1800 in the last year. Granted I retained the factory 4.10 gears but still.... All of that considered I would not turn down $1,000 for your axle set if it had new parts. If it was assembled with used parts or you could not prove the parts were new when installed then $800 is probably more realistic. $1,500 will get a buyer some pretty strong used axles with a little shopping even considering the fitment issues. All of this of course assumes that the right buyer comes along. Maybe they are worth more where the starting pieces are more expensive. Used axles are pretty cheap here due to the XJ's and Explorers rusting away around them. Good luck on the sale and if you ask $1500 you can always come down...kinda hard to haggle up when selling.. :-)
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Opinions Wanted.
Incommando replied to ftpiercecracker1's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have seen nicer ones go for much less. That is maybe a $600-$800 truck at the most. -
I was getting a crazy loud clunk/pop for the longest time, thought it was my ball joints, replaced them and U joints, still there. Then i suspected the swaybar links, since the bushings were so worn the drivers side was rubbing a groove into the tracbar mounting bracket. Replaced those, still there. Tie rods are next..... Making sure you also checked your track bar mount , particularly where the mount attaches on the frame side.
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Big tires/factory rims. 12.5 tires are great on 8" wide rims.
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If you ever rip off those front flares wheeling replace them with a pair of rear flares and it gets rid of the marker light holes. Looks good.
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Do not rely on info from DMV.org as it is an advertising site trying to make you think it is the official site. This site will come up first on google searches. For Ohio go to www.bmv.ohio.gov or www.publicsafety.ohio.gov The website info regarding salvage titles cited above applies if you are the current owner and have the original title of a car that was totaled by an insurance company. "First apply for a salvage title in your name changing the status of your title from regular to salvage. (NOTE: The vehicle cannot be operated on the road while evidenced on a salvage title.) Upon completion of the repairs, contact the closest Highway Patrol Inspection Station and make an appointment to have a salvage inspection done (There is a $50 fee.). Take any receipts for repairs and new parts with you to the inspection. After the vehicle has successfully completed the inspection, take Form HP106 and your salvage title and proceed to any Title Office and apply for a "rebuilt salvage" title. After all of these steps have been completed, the vehicle is now operable for use on any road." http://bmv.ohio.gov/faq_vehicle_titling.stm#tog BUT If you are looking to get a title for a car that you have never owned it is more involved and is called an Unclaimed Motor Vehicle title. Here is a link to the affidavit form to get a title for something that you have never owned: http://publicsafety.ohio.gov/links/BMV4202.pdf It has a ton of conditions involved with it and is only accepted when coming form a legitimate repair or storage facility. If you know someone who has such a business they can sometimes assist you in filing this form if they are willing to do so. The legality of how you accomplish this is between the two of you. If you do not have the title start here: https://ext.dps.state.oh.us/BMVOnlineServices.Public/TitleSearch.aspx/ to locate the last registered owner. Locating the last listed owner and slipping them a few bucks to go get a duplicate title and sign it over to you is by far the easiest way to do this if it can be worked out. Remember though that they can get a duplicate title and claim the car as you have no proof of legitimate ownership. I have screwed around with this stuff for nearly 35 years. It has been at least 20 since I have heard of someone legally obtaining an Ohio title for a car without going though one of the processes above. At one time you could say that the vehicle was abandoned on your property and do the Unclaimed Vehicle title claim yourself but now the vehicle has to be towed from private property and left at an actual storage facility, such as the tow yard, and then that business has to file for the title once the conditions of the affidavit have been met. There are plenty of opportunities to be creative there and that is why I added "The legality of how you accomplish this is between the two of you." Good luck.
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Good post. This is so confusing for a lot of people even enthusiasts. I have heard more times then I can count that the first three digits are the height and the second two the width. If I could add an example that would mainly apply to jeeps: *Start with 265/75/r16. *Multiply the tire width by aspect ratio as a percentage : 265 x .75 = 198.5 *You must double this number as this is the height of ONE sidewall and you of course have 2 sidewalls = 397.5 mm. *Convert this to inches ( 1mm= .04 inch +/-) for 15.9". *Now add the rim diameter (16" +15.9") and you get 31.9" for height. *265 mm width = 10.6". *So this tire is roughly a 32x10.5 would probably be sold as a 32x11. Rarely ever do flotation size tires (31x10.5, 33x12.5 etc...) measure as tall or wide as advertised. True off road tires like Super Swampers are an exception. *Doing this same math on a 265/70/r16 to show the difference the aspect ratio makes in height: (265 x.70) x 2 = 371mm height for both sidewalls = 14.8". Add 14.8" to 16" =30.8" height. The width remains the same at 10.6". So the 265/70/r16 is 1" shorter than a 265/75/r16 and is as close as you can get to a 31x10.5 as I can imagine. But remember: A 32" tire only gives you .5" of more ground clearance over a 31" tire because at any given time half of the height increase is above the axle line and does nothing for you.
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Another fan of factory rims with bigger tires. I second that those appear to by the 5x5.5 bolt pattern of CJ's/Dodge/Ford and not the 5x4.5 bolt pattern that most every jeep (including the MJ) from the mid-'80s to 2008 or so had.
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I had to jack up the front of a jeep once and the socket rolled to a place that I could snag it. Not an MJ, though.
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You are referring to a separate protest. The million trucker protest occurred was centered on shutting down the "beltway" Friday and was not the same as the vet protest. Actually being curious I text-ed a friend who works in D.C. but lives in Virginia. He spotted no trucks and said that rush hour traffic was about as usual. There are many sources reporting this. As with Fox, many sources have a bias to some degree: http://www.politico.com/story/2013/10/trucker-protest-beltway-98194.html The trucker's protest is probably the most over-hyped failure of a protest in at least recent memory. Even the "million muslim march" garnered an estimated 2,000 people. So these million truckers (even if they did end up 999,900 truckers short) had a stated purpose of "shutting down the country" yet could not even shut down one by-pass that routinely shuts itself down with traffic. I certainly saw no evidence of such a shutdown and it had zero effect on my life. So how does the reality compare to its stated goals? My store shelves are certainly not empty...no fuel shortages...nothing. Anyway you cut it it was a bust...
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He cut and pasted much but said little. The NRA argument ( and apparently his by the initial post I cited) is that gun rights are absolute and cannot be infringed. I then point out what a lie that is, and he confirms it by stating that gun rights are not absolute and can be infringed and even claims some expert friend to back up my contention. 'Preciate that. Quotes from the founders, who in many cases were severely flawed people, in no way constitute law and certainly do not qualify as the BoR. COTUS has been a lie since day one. It speaks of all people yet patently did not apply to blacks and to a lesser degree woman, jews, catholics... None of the BoR applied to the slaves as these "founders" were talking out of their butts in regards to freedom and rights for all. And it certainly didn't stop Jefferson from forcing slaves to engage in some between the sheets action. No action taken by someone you own is ever voluntary. Hmmm...how many parts of the BoR were violated by slavery and slave holders? To use military units from a communist country to support your incorrect interpretation of the 2nd is a nice touch and one that maybe only 1 person in the world would have attempted. Kudos.
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. Oyaji : "Second amendment says you can have whatever you can afford so that you can practice and maintain a state of readiness in fulfillment of your patriotic duty to defend your free nation, and that that right "shall not be infringed". Funny how there are restrictive laws contrary to INFRINGING that constitutional guarantee though, eh? " Funny the parts you quote and don't. Again, if there can be no infringement why aren't you marching on your nearest prison to demand that all prisoners have loaded weapons in their cells? NO INFRINGEMENT means NO INFRINGEMENT, right? Or are you picking and choosing which truths are true? The actual wording of the 2nd: A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed. Please point out the part that says anything about "whatever you can afford, "practice, "maintain a state of readiness," or "patriotic duty" as they seem to be missing from the actual document. As we with the bare minimum of education know commas are used to separate minor phrases in the main phrase (to paraphrase). So removing the parts within the comma still leaves the point, correct? Does everyone else remember this? Example: The dog, which was brown, bit the cat. If you remove the parts within the commas the phrase still stands: The dog bit the cat. So: "A well-regulated Militia shall not be infringed." States can have National Guards, police, etc...
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The million trucker rally wound up being about 27 trucks and a chartreuse VW microbus good buddy. The 2nd clearly was never meant to allow unfettered access to weapons. Even those who ratified the document allowed the seizure of weapons and denial of ownership. Did they allow murderers to carry loaded firearms to jail? To trail? Of course not. That is absurd and clearly shows their intent that the 2nd does not allow unfettered access to weapons. Did the BoR and the the 2nd free and arm the slaves? Of course not. So now that it is clearly established that the 2nd has always allowed restrictions on firearm possession the only question is to what degree. If you think you are a member of a "well organized militia" ( and not the ready reserve of the militia act of 1903 which is interpreted as authorizing the draft) then I am certain that in order to qualify as even the ready reserve you have all of the prescribed gear on hand as listed in the 2nd 1792 militia act: "Militia members were to arm themselves with a musket, bayonet and belt, two spare flints, a cartridge box with 24 bullets, and a knapsack. Men owning rifles were required to provide a powder horn, 1/4 pound of gunpowder, 20 rifle balls, a shooting pouch, and a knapsack." And those are the conditions for the UNorganized militia, which could hardly be called "well regulated." If you lack those necessities you are not a part of any militia per law. If you do happen to qualify as the militia I am sure none of you will expect the due process for criminal law to apply to you such as a grand jury review of any charges against you, as stated in the BoR, right? Read the 5th, for example. Hey, in for the penny in for the pound. You can't claim membership one place and deny it another. The NRA, just another PAC, avoids this by leaving the "well regulated militia" part off of its postings and even the inscription on its headquarters. Yep, they are just some more shady lobbyists. http://www.saf.org/LawReviews/BeardAndRand.html The Revolution was fought due to a complete lack of representation. Well, guess what? We have said representation as allowed under a democratically elected representational constitutional republic. We patently are NOT A DEMOCRACY. Anyone talking civil war or revolution now are fully traitors. There is a huge difference between not being able to get a enough people who share your beliefs to show up at the polls and allow your side to win than not being represented. You must truly be un-American to try to subvert this system that has served us for hundreds of years because you are children crying over not getting your way. Why not man up, learn from your mistakes, and try to get that voting majority? Because you realize your radical views will never allow such a majority as intended by COTUS means you can't win so you talk treason??? Even if you think you can show the other camp is treasonous to lower yourselves to the same level makes you the same traitors.
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It is a Ford Escort. Any info on the same year of Escort will apply and that may be an easier forum to find. http://expln7.com/ has the most buzz specifically about that version of the Escort and it seems you already found it.
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Merry Hallothanksmas to you all!
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I am in Ohio and the maroon MJ I posted lived its whole life in Ohio. I would not pay $400 for either of those junkers even in Ohio.
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The criteria used included production numbers and average time on the dealer lot. Maybe the Volt was made in too small of numbers to qualify? Or they don't have that long of lot time? I think that maybe the Maxima's issue is that you can load up the Altima for less cash and it may be scavenging Maxima sales. The two cars, and Murano, are on the same platform. The Murano, like the Rogue, has take it or leave it styling that is not well loved by many. The juke is flat-out one of the ugliest cars on the road but isn't on the list which surprised me. I think the Acura's also suffer the same problem that the Maxima does: you can get the equivalent Honda version for a lot less and to me at least the Honda Accord is better looking then the TSX and are the same platform. Same with the Pilot/MDX.
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$400 Comanche. Bed full of mulch. driven up to 500 miles roundtrip at a time. After $50 worth of used TJ fender flares and 30 minutes of work: Not hateful for $450. Good taillights. Sliding rear window. 4.0 HO. No floor holes. yes, $1000 bucks for scrap trucks is shameful.
