70barracuda

Anyone have a lead on a replacement for that little nylon sleeve that goes on the clutch master push rod and clutch pedal? I can't for the life of me find mine or anything that'll work.

I got the brackets and shroud in good shape

Lol yeahhhh I kinda like it

So I know this tech is really old and caltracs are a much better set up, but these were $50 on summit so I figured why the hell not. And boy do they help. So much less bounce on take offs and even between shifts. Feels more planted. Now for some much bigger tires in the back end. So much for sleeper...

Got the pedal back yesterday. Machine shop did an amazing job. Fixed the crack, rewelded the inside all around and welded the outside as well. Then bead blasted and painted the whole pedal all for an hours worth of labor at $75. Wayyyyy better than my booger weld job I would've done.

Yup. Right where the bead ends

Lol I'm only in the break in period for the tremec. I havent even bang shifted it yet! That's crazy. Never thought Id have to worry about a pedal

So driving home last night about to pull into my driveway, I push the clutch in and pop jeep lurches forward. Mash the clutch but nothing so I brake and stall out. Luckily I live on a hill so I rolled it in neutral to the side. Expecting fluid everywhere from either master or slave I look all over and find nothing. After about an hour I find that the master push rod bracket cracked off the pedal. After looking up online it seems not all that rare. I'm just dumfounded. Taking it to get professionally welded today and see if they can beef it up. But still, like what the hell! Never heard of a pedal breaking like that.

Procar seats by scat. When I bought them they had comanche listed available for brackets but have since removed and when I called about them they said the jig was wrong and won't be offering them anymore. So I had used the krustyballer brackets with the universal seat brackets. ALOT of work to make them work but it came out pretty good.

Finally upgraded the rear end to discs. Did the typical ZJ upgrade. Also got new 1541H axles and did the bearings while I was at it. Passenger side fought me for over an hour. Driver popped right out. My new gears and limited slip should be here soon, so that's next.

Falling back in love with this truck with the new trans. Shifts so good. Got a slightly longer shifter stick so I don't have to lean into 3rd now and a new tremec ball because why not

just saw this now. I did end up using a wilwood and it fit perfectly. Thanks

I just booked a hotel for friday and saturday night. its 10 minutes from the grounds right off 81. I'm not the biggest camper so hotel is my go to.

Well I took it out for the real maiden voyage. Highway and all. Shifts like butter all the way to fifth. Maybe some slight notchiness but they said that'll go away after break in. Either way its miles better than the ax15. Clutch feels great and pedal isnt super heavy. I actually stalled it twice today because of how vastly different it is lol. Rpms at 65 are 1800, so that means I can definitely run 3.90 rear gears...

Lol yes I did. Checked that 3 times as well

Well she's running and driving! I've never been so nervous to drive it before lol Ive tripled checked everything but still that feeling I forgot something is there. Oh well. Time to break it all in for 500 miles. Original Speedo line fit right in with an adapter and was the perfect length as well. I also flipped the trans crossmember so I was able to get rid of all the spacers on the actual mount. Engine and trans sit around 3 degrees tilt back so that's good. Driveline seems like it should be fine after all angles were measured. And I finally got my reverse lights working. Also had to get a larger boot for the offset shifter adapter. Pedal feel and shifting is WAY different than before so I have the feeling ill be learning this truck all over again.

Thanks!

Anyone have a schematic for the reverse light wiring? Or atleast knows how they run? It's an 1988. The new tremec I have has the same 2 wire switch but I've removed so much wiring I can't remember if I cut it or tucked the harness somewhere. Body harness and fuse box is stock. All engine management wiring is gone. Thanks.

I feel much better about this crossmember over my hack job of one. Only thing left is to get a block spacer instead of those puck style ones. They'd probably be okay but I'd feel better with a solid block

Progress has been pretty slow. I tried to gather everything I needed before hand but as it usually goes I'm waiting on parts. So I got the trans in and mounted. Took about 4 hours. The plastic clutch line up tool had alot of slop and I think they attributed to the hard install. I redid the clutch twice. Eventually got it in and spent an entire day making the new trans mount to ultimately decide I don't trust my welding and purchase a $350 adjustable crossmember and $100 mount. So that should be here hopefully this week. In the meantime I tried to get the hydraulics bled and clutch working. Well I hooked it up to the factory master which should have been good but alas would not disengage the clutch. So I purchased a new wildwood master and spent a couple hours getting that installed. Ended up taking the clutch pedal connector off with heat and threading it onto the master as the factory pushrod wouldn't work. Then had to drive all over town for a stupid little adapter from 7/16 to 3/8. And finally after all that and getting it bled the clutch still wouldn't disengage. While I was under looking in the bell housing making sure the hydraulic throw out bearing was working, I had my grandpa push the clutch pedal and felt a couple drops on my neck. Bleeder leaking. Called up tilton and apparently they had a bad run of the remote bleeder adapter and screw and its a known issue they leak. Wonderful. So now they are sending me a new one. I am pretty defeated with this damn trans. The whole engine swap was not this hard lol. (Yes my welding sucks)

Just like the title says, does anyone know the stock stroke for the clutch master? I know the bores are .688 to .699 but I cannot find anywhere the stroke length.

So this is what I came up with. It's not pretty but it didn't bend or move at all with the transmission loaded on it. Eventually id love to do a bent tube up to the trans kinda like what frankthedog said. But this will do for now.

Here's a better picture.

Need ideas for a transmission mount for my LS swap and new tremec trans. I'd like to keep the stock cross member if possible. In my head I'm just gonna stack square tube and weld it up. I'm worried itll be too high of a tower if that matters. Ideas???

Ultimately I want to make more power and really romp on it. The ax15 is limited at 300 and that's being generous. The new TKX is rated at 600ftlbs so plenty for what I plan to make. And yeah both of those 2 things as well. Tkx can shift up to 7500rpm and also has a lower overdrive