70barracuda

I could definitely give that a shot. Actually alot. I don't put it away until after Thanksgiving but it usually hits 30s in the morning this time a year. The first year I built it I didn't do any heat and I froze my butt off.

I tried that way back when I first built everything and wasn't a fan of anywhere I mounted them. Really wanted to hide them under these covers.

I don't think so. The actual nipples that come out of the firewall are in the way as well.

So I need to figure out how to move my heater core outlets 2 inches to the passenger side. I got some new valve covers and unfortunately they don't fit. I know it's sounds pretty dumb to try and make this work but I really like these and wanna keep them. The a/c outlets are in a way better spot. Too bad I can't run my evaporator as a heater core. Any ideas? The main cover fits and the coil can just squeeze on but they have these finned covers. That is the part that doesn't fit.

Been raining for 5 days straight. Finally got to take a look. I have power up to the harness relay. Haven't tracked down a broken wire but I wasn't able to get to all of it yet. It's kind of a cheaper harness so I'm just gonna make my own with new relays and wiring.

Swapped relays and still only highs. I can't remember if I checked the ground, that'll be a tomorrow check.

Yeah it's definitely clicking. I took the new one and clicked it by hand so it's definitely switching over. It goes in and out of highs no problem.

No I don't. It's got an aftermarket harness but nothing up to the harness. It gets lost after the dimmer switch Hmm I just recently had that one apart and cleaned. Maybe it got slightly unplugged or I didn't do a good enough job.

Lost low beams out of nowhere. Other morning I turned on headlights, and had no lows. Clicked to high and worked fine, then back and lows worked. Noticed the relay for lows was wet inside and changed it. Now I can't get them back again. Highs worked perfectly fine. I have power to the dimmer switch. Swapped with a brand new one and same thing. I have no low beam voltage out of the headlight sockets. I'm a little stumped.

I slathered some RTV on the spot that was leaking and so far so good. Still going to maybe work on a 91+ gauge swap. The GPS idea could also work. The holley dash I want uses that for speed. But at $2k it's hard to justify... Maybe I'll work on a custom gauge panel using a factory enclosure and aftermarket gauges.

I have had it with the speedometer cable. I'm on my 4th one and all of them have leaked out the crimp at the transmission end. I'm running a Tremec TKX but it provides a mechanic and electric speedo output. I was using an adapter on the trans that allowed me to keep the original cable. But that started leaking. Now I'm on my 3rd one of various designs and they all leak out. Is there an electric speedometer I can swap to my gauge cluster? I really like having the stock look with the blue face gauge and giant gas gauge so I really just want a speedometer. I think I saw the 115mph police one is electric and blue faced. Provided I can even find one is it possible to swap?

Yeah the truck lights are the only other ones that don't look half bad but still don't fit the look. I hate those ones that look like insect eyes. Just so bad. I looked around at the truck lights and the jw speaker ones and I guess the holley price isn't as crazy when compared to them.

I've always wanted to get some LED headlights for the Manche but I absolutely hate the look of the all the ones made. It just didnt work if you were trying to keep it look all original or match the sealed beam look. Holley came out with these new Retrobright lights and I have to say they are awesome. Look exactly like sealed beams and the color is also spot on for normal halogen. But WOW they are bright and the beam pattern is incredible. They are.... EXPENSIVE, but I really wanted to give them a shot. Maybe the price will come down in the future but I couldn't wait. Highly recommend if you are going trying to keep that old school look but want LED

Custom build. I called them up and they have an order sheet which you fill out. I think it was $450 ish. Whatever they charge for an off the shelf one. The guy told me it was very similar to a blazer with some minor tweaks.

That's the dealership right? 😁

LS swap and running terminator here

I will be there for the whole weekend

Hell yeah. I'll definitely be there.

I never did find out if the electric worm gear is the same. But you can take apart the manual regulator and swap parts. The channel where it rides is just crimped together. Just carefully bend it and you can slide the whole worm gear out. I had 3 different bad ones and made 1 good regulator out of it.

Haven't had a chance yet. I still got the motor torn down for heads and a cam so it'll be a bit before I can drive it. Wheels are 17s. 235 55 front and 275 55 rear Generals.

Another upgrade done. Still a long list to go..

Stopping is almost as important as going fast....almost

Probably been posted before but I was at Raceway park NJ today for the swap meet and this was wayyyy in the corner all neglected. Probably hasn't ran because they tore up the drag strip a couple years ago. Beautiful black interior as well...

Yeah it's the preload inserts for the ball joint. I'm using the 86 to 89 4wd knuckles for the wilwood brake kit. Pipe thread would make sense now that you mentioned it. It looks as though someone put a spot of weld at the very end so I'm just gonna see how it goes as is now.

Cleaning up some knuckles. Ball joint inserts fought me the whole way but I got them out. The last few threads are pretty bad though. Anyone know the size so I can run a tap through? 1 inch / 8 is too small.