BeaterComanche86

I’m also curious what the amperage reading on that ground rod wire is. Anyway you could post a picture of your tester while doing this? When you have the time of course.

A case of beers and we could clear this up in a few minutes. I think while your panel is open and also you seem comfortable with doing some electrical work I would install a ground bar in your panel. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-21-Terminal-Ground-Bar-for-Type-CH-and-Type-BR-Panels-GBK2120/302610360?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|All-Products|All|All|PLA|71700000014585962|58700001236285396|92700010802552412&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImJaRmfbz4gIVSCaGCh2CHwYhEAQYASABEgKxv_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds By doing this your at least isolating the grounds you currently have to an actual earth ground. Basically all of your bare copper wires you want to land on this guy. Also don’t forget to install the large wire that goes to your ground rod outside on the largest screw, this is key. Your also going to need to remove the green screw at the bottom of your panel that bonds your neutral bar to the panel. And I should have said this first but make sure you TURN OFF your main breaker before doing this. Be careful with your feeder wires coming from your meter if you decide to do this as those will still be on.

Exactly, I’ve since learned that since joining the site.

According to this, I'm assuming +/- 0.1v is okay, this would mean these circuits are suspect: - Breaker 22 (circuit 1) - Breaker 14 (circuit 2) - Breaker 20  - Breaker 18 - Breaker 6 It seems that some where along the line someone accidentally tied your new ground into a neutral somewhere, these breakers quoted above would be the first ones I would check. It’s gonna take some time looking through each box and light but I think if you can identify it you may find your problem.

I'm learning the 2.5 didn’t have a lot that the 4.0 did. I was looking for my c101 for awhile till cruiser informed me it didn’t exist on the 2.5. Thanks for the info @Jeep Driver clearly I still don’t know S.

One of those tall MJ’s

Here’s the diy I will be using for my swap https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

I’ll just add that the PO of my truck deleted this and I’m assuming spliced it together somewhere and I have no issues in the few months of owning the truck. I also have never noticed the fuel pump noise. From what I’ve read people delete these when the resister goes bad and don’t feel like spending money on a new one. AMC obviously had there reason putting it in but it seems without it your truck will be fine.

Big fan of this thread, thanks for keeping it going

When you get home I’d turn all your breakers off and disconnect the “ground” from all of your outlet boxes in kitchen, when you disconnect it make sure it’s not touching anything. Turn your breakers back on and go to each box and test the “ground” and see which one has voltage. If you find it put a wire nut on that one and tuck it back in the box. I would honestly get rid of the make shift ground since it’s causing so much trouble. Best of luck and keep us posted

Could you get a pic of the inside of your panel? So we can see the wires inside and trace them. Since all of your circuits are reading minimal amperage even when the breakers are off it could be an issues in the panel.

Any 90’s Honda would probably do. You may be able to find an awd I civic or accord. good mpg, reliable, and a huge aftermarket, all wins in my book I didn’t see your previous post about civics being to small but the passport or even a crv may work for you. I can’t vouch for either since I’ve never owned one but at least the engine will be reliable.

I’m gonna probably get flamed for this but from my experience a older civic is the way to go. Very easy to work on and parts are readily available and cheap. I run snow tires in the winter and have no issues with a few inches of snow being it’s light enough to basically float on top. Canadian winters are worse than Maryland but I bet your road crews are better at keeping roads clear compared to were I live.

I’m going to guess that one of the Receptacle boxes is pinching the hot wire at the connector causing that box to become hot and since there is a separate “ground” connecting all the boxes to the water pipe the current is traveling through that. Find the first receptacle in that circuit and disconnect the splices going to the next one that way you can isolate it and find which wire is being pinched. Also when you get the funds I would look into getting a new panel that will actually trip when the wires short out, SERIOUS fire hazard. Even with your neutral and ground sharing the same bar your panel should trip a circuit if there’s a short. Does your stove share that same “ground” as the plugs?

I paid more than $1500 for my mj which is in worse shape so if it were me I would pull the trigger.

Issue resolved, while cleaning my battery terminals I noticed that one of the crimp ends broke off so I put a new end on and it started right up beginners mistake I guess. Now I can get back to flushing the coolant. Also thanks to @Fryedaddy for the response.

So I decided to do a coolant flush today, full discloser this is my first attempt at this “easy” job. So I drain the coolant from the radiator, and reserve and flush the radiator with some hose water. Fill both back up with water and start the engine. Engine is running just fine while I’m getting it to temp. So I turn the truck off because I think it’s good but on second thought I could have warmed it up more (idiot lights so I don’t know the actual temp) so I go to run it again and this happens... Any idea why she won’t start anymore? Any help would be greatly appreciated. E857B935-EC3F-4285-BFF3-D9FCA0ECBCE9.MOV

I think this thread would qualify

I second the insta pot. I just made some yesterday with a simple dry rub and topped with Sweet Baby Rays hickory and there damn good. I like how easy it is and you really can’t screw them up going this route.

Just got my skid plate from teamcherokee and to my surprise it’s not a OEM skid but a rugged ridge reproduction. Just be aware if you order from them as I was expecting it to be OEM since that’s how they advertised it. With that said I’m pretty happy with it, seems pretty heavy duty.

Yeah the shipping was basically the same cost as the skid plate which took my by surprise. And I didn’t even think about mounting bolts I just thought it would mount to existing bolts. Just have to see what I come up with when it comes in. Still I like the idea of having a new oem skid

Teamcherokee.com has them for about $40. There oem as well which for me seemed like a okay deal

This is absurd and has no function at all but I guess I can respect what they were trying to do. My daily is lowered a bit but it’s still a functional vehicle so I get wanting to be low. This thing will do a few shows and will probably be left to rot in someone’s backyard...

Flares are off but the PO hacked the fenders a bit.

Picked up some wheels last weekend for $50 so I threw them on the mj. They have maybe 30% tread left but have no dry rot unlike my old tires. Pretty much running these till I can afford some 31’s. Then I’ll have to decide which wheels to go with, I like the 16’s but as you can see with the stock backspacing the flares look pretty bad. Old vs “new”