BeaterComanche86

Hey guys, I’ve been making small progress on @cruiser54 Renix tips and was getting the motivation to do the c101 connector and I'm not really sure where it is? I’ve read that it’s usually above the brake booster but as shown in the pics there’s nothing there besides the loom with the washer hose that goes into the cowl and about six wires in it. I’m still learning things about this truck every day trying to see what the previous owners have done and I guess it’s possible it was already done. I do see a connector of sorts tucked under the clutch fluid near the booster and was thinking maybe that was it. Anyway, any input would be appreciated.

Just my 2cents, if I were to do this I would change your current dryer receptical to a standard 120v 20 amp receptacle. Since it’s already a 30 amp, wire should be large enough. In your panel locate the wire that feeds the old dryer receptacle, should be two hots (black and red) and a neutral or a bare ground. Unscrew the fuse and remove the red wire from the terminal screw and land it on the neutral bar in the panel thus making your red wire your new neutral. Then on to your new ground, whatever wire that’s left (white or bare ground) just land it on the ground bar in your panel. Then change the dryer plug to the 20 amp receptacle and wire the same way you did the panel and put it in a junction box. Plug your welder in and done. Some pictures of the inside of your panel would be great help as well as the inside of the dryer plug if you take the face off just to be able to see what kind of wire is actually there, oh and then plug end of your welder.

I’d like to see that robot play bass and sing at the same time like Lemmy but this is still very cool

I’d be all over that if I had a trailer to get it home, that interior looks pretty good besides the dash pad and seats.

Okay then disregard what I said about the speaker wire and good luck

@Drahcir495 I guess I should have asked before but your trying to get the subwoofer to work correct?

I think the small gauge speaker wire isn’t correct either. If I remember correctly one wire needs to go to the left + or - and the other wire to the opposite of that on the right. Either left + and right - or left - and right + That ground looks hella small btw

Thank for the info, I have a 96 xj underhood light that I may try and rig up to the old connector

Ha what a turd

Gonna add to this thread if I may. I was looking for the underhood light but didn’t see the same connector in my 86. So here’s a few more “mystery” connectors.

Changed the valve cover gasket and found out that the Under hood light, and courtesy floor lights I got from a junked 96 xj don’t work on my 86. Didn’t realize the connectors would be different.

That’s gonna be a NO for me dawg, good luck getting that 15k... edit: I do like the rocker decal

Quality job on the frame and all around.

Had fun with some paint and put on the CC vinyl

Thanks eagle, guess this will be going up for sale soon.

So while at the junk yard recently I picked up a few parts from a 96 xj, one of them being a full gauge cluster. My question is could disassemble my Renix cluster and this cluster and swap the actual gauges for the idiot lights? Basically keeping my Renix shell and transferring these new gauges in. While it would obviously be easier buying a cluster that’s the correct year, I was just wondering if this would work or has been done.

Thanks JMO That’s not a bad idea, could save a bucks in the process

Kjell your MJ is coming along nice, looks real good for being parked since 01. Do you know what the purpose of the cover is behind the battery? Or what it’s even called? I think I wanna look for one of those, it really cleans up the engine bay.

With the extra two bolts per side I’m not to worried about it but it’s defiantly towards the top of my never ending to-do list. Thanks again for all the peace of mind guys, great community here on CC

My fault I misread your post, completely glossed over the “ factory cut holes” part.

Thanks I feel good about it, I took her out for a drive today and the vibration has calmed down quite a bit. Hopefully I can get it out without cutting the frame...

Thanks for the video desertrat but the bolt head sheared off and is flush with the frame. Probally gonna have to drill it out but good video nonetheless

So this is kind of a hack job but I was able to drill out a spot for another bolt on the side where I broke the other. Once again defiantly a hack move. Also a side by side of the new and old trans mount, the old compressed quite a bit over time.

Pm sent

Thanks for the quick reply, I just needed the peace of mind