JustEmptyEveryPocket

What size tires would you pair with that much lift?!?

If it was my truck I would look for bright blue spark at the end of a plug wire during a no start condition. Then I would get a fuel pressure reading. That will help you narrow your search.

Sounds like its time to break out the extensions, learn some new curse words, crawl under the truck, and change out your CPS. I recommend getting one from NAPA as they seem to have the best track record. Either that or see if @eaglescout526 can hook you up with an OEM version.

These are good readings. Time to move on to the next items. However, if it starts cranking but not starting again, this would be the very first thing I would check. The four things you need for a running engine (in order of likely fails) are: Spark Fuel Air Compression/ Timing You can check for spark at the end of a plug wire like MiniBeast says. If that checks good and you are still have a no run condition I would move on to fuel. Any auto parts store should rent you a pressure gauge for "free" ie: you put down a deposit when you check the tool out and get that money back when you return it. Should be 31 psi with the vacuum attached at the Fuel Pressure Regulator and 39 if you remove the vacuum hose. Good luck!

For most things on vehicles Tim is right, you measure in VDC or volts direct current. However, the CPS produces an AC wave form because of the 'pulses' from the tooth pattern on the flywheel as it goes around. Make sure your test leads are on the wires going to the CPS itself and crank the engine. You should be getting some reading. If you see nothing, then I would assume your leads aren't staying on the pins in the connector. Sometimes I use paperclips to backprobe a connector I want to measure. That makes it easier to get a solid reading. Can you get someone to help you? Often I can bribe my wife to come hold test leads and read the DVOM for me, but YMMV.

Test first, lets make sure the CPS is an actual problem. Then worry about how to fix it. Like MiniBeast said, its fairly straightforward, just time consuming.

Time to check your CPS function. Read THIS PAGE and follow the test exactly as described. Report back with the number. It should be >=0.5 reading on the volts AC scale. A failing CPS can shut down your truck and cause a crank, but no start situation. Then when everything cools down completely it will run again for a while.

@Jesse J Read THIS thread, 6th post down. How are you at welding?

I think you might be missing the entire reason for "home defense gun"

Personally I would go with grade 5 for most everything. That way when they snap off its easier to drill and tap them out. . .

All? Thats the most important finger. Especially for driving!

Learning is never finished. As an educator I espouse the idea that while learning must occur in school, learning should also continuously occur outside of school.

My qualifications for any vehicle I personally drive or own: Must be a truck. I do lots of wood working, fencing, building structures, etc. Must have a manual transmission. I hate everything about an automatic, and I understand its both irrational and highly personal. But its how I feel. Must be 4x4. I live in very rural Missouri. The first 7 miles of my drive ANYWHERE else is badly maintained gravel roads and huge hills. Must be easy to work on. Honestly when I was looking for my next vehicle I was looking for carbs. I hate all CAN bus and similar electronics. Give me the basics and I will accept the downsides. Must be unique. Call it vanity if you want, but I like to stand out from a crowd. The MJ platform does just that. Got to love the huge JEEP on the tailgate! Being able to fix it on the fly and get back home is always nice. K.I.S.S. Cannot, I repeat, CANNOT have the stupid Chevy/ GM/ GMC/ etc emblem on it. Again, pure vanity and irrationality, but I hate the Chevy crowd. I know out vehicles have lots of GM parts . . . but I put up with that because the outside isn't badged and most people now-a-days don't associate the two. With all of these requirements there are few vehicles that I can actually own. OBS fords, square body Dodges, IH trucks, etc. I found a rustfree (ish) MJ for cheap, bought it, and never looked back.

I second the boostwerks option. Great product.

Just make sure you buy the tubes of 3/4" to 1" caulk. If you go with 1/2" caulk or smaller it might not fill correctly. ^carpenter humor there btw.

I used three different products from them, and applied 2 coats of each. So that would be: 2 full coats of the heat retardant, 2 full coats of the sound deadener, and 2 rounds of a top coat product. At 4 years or daily use I am just starting to wear through the top coat right where my right heel sits. Everywhere else it still looks brand new. Or it would if I ever cleaned off the mud and dust. . .

I used this in my truck. No carpet, no vinyl, no padding, nothing besides multiple coats of lizardskin. Works well for me. Been daily driving it like that for ~4 years. Its definitely not quiet, and some heat gets through to my legs in the summer. But overall it was worth it and I would do it again.

just eat chili every night. Same result.

Lets see if I can remember on the fly.... I ran it over to the driver's side, used the upper control arm to ziptie to, put a vertical loop in it to take up some slack and to compensate for articulation, ran through an existing hole in the firewall close to the speedocable, and mounted the handle in the lower right hand switch hole. My truck had a redneck "switch delete" so I just knocked that out and let the posilock handle sit there at a slight angle. Personally I enjoy having it mounted higher since its easier and safer to reach when the roads turn to ice suddenly. Lets me shift on the fly much better than mounting it to the lower dash panel. Actually I suppose I ran it exactly opposite what I stated since you have to have the handle inside the truck.... but you should get the idea. Its been in place for 3+ years and still functions perfectly.

I love my posi-lock. 2WD Low is amazingly useful. For the rat chewing things, try some Honda Rodent Tape.

Thats not completely true. Any XJ with the 4.0L will work, but some drilling, tapping, and modding brackets is required to use the WJ and TJ blocks. Its not terrible, and there are a few decent write-ups out there, but its also not a bolt in thing. Don't quote me here, but I thought the WJ and TJ blocks changed in 99? Maybe not till 01 though.... Google is your friend OP.

Ever had a true Bavarian pretzel? Those are boiled in a lye mixture before baking. Very yummy.

Been there, done that. Slave blew and I REALLY didn't want to drop the transmission on the gravel. So I pulled the CPS, put it in gear and crank-moved it 10 yards to the shop.

NV 3550, Peugeot BA 10-5, NSG370 Those are the only ones I can think of off the top of my head. Really I would recommend you find a 94+ AX-15. Have you tried car-part.com? Or search Craiglist in your area. When I was looking for mine I found several near me, and I live in the middle of no-where Missouri. They really aren't that bad to find yet. You can even buy "new" ones online.