89 MJ

Looks like you can. Figured you’d appreciate the message

I think that nut will round off as soon as you try to turn it. I’d try to use an air hammer to split it and then peel the nut away from the stud.

That was an incredible trip, but I'm sure it feels good to be home and have it home too.

Seeing that, I would assume it is somehow out of adjustment. I wish there was an easy way that we could figure out the type of transmission you have.

Perfect! I think we should also try to figure out what transmission it has. The Chrysler transmissions (like the TF998 that I suspect you may have) do not run the pump in park, so the fluid level must be checked with the engine running and in neutral.

Your English is very good. When you say the kickdown wire, it is just a metal cable inside a plastic sleeve, correct? Any chance you can take some pictures of what you're working with?

That's super strange. I've never noticed that before, but I also never really paid attention either. Now you've made me start watching

A 3 speed with a 4.0 you say? Does is the transmission computer controlled or is it just kickdown linkage? What type of transmission is it? I don't think that you are from the US, but here in the US, all 4.0 Comanches with an automatic transmission came with the AW4 4 speed automatic. Other AMC and Jeep models could come with 3 speed autos. In AMCs, I know this was the TF998 in the late 70s.

Just a guess, does that show up once a thread reaches 2+ pages?

People that have to experience emissions testing will not pass without EGR. If you do not have to go through any sort of emissions testing/inspection, there is no downside to deleting it that I have heard. All it does is feed your engine's waste right back through it, reducing efficiency.

I'm going to guess purely by the fact that it is a Crown part and that it is an aftermarket piece that it is junk. Thin metal and poor fitment.

Other than the hard brake pedal, that’s a great idea. Exactly what I’d do.

No such number in my 87-90 parts catalogue

Congratulations! Now get out there and make some money so you can spoil the truck!

To be honest, I was going more off of the smoke coming from that area than the acceleration. I've seen stuff like that come out of brake boosters when unhooking them before. I'll be honest, I haven't watched the video yet, but I will when I have better signal.

About the only way I can think of would be a combination of an old, brittle hose and the acceleration causing the engine the engine to torque over farther and breaking the hose. Its a stretch though.

Since you posted this on the AMC forum too, they might ask you to add the T10 and Super T10 transmissions. I think those could be had in close and wide ratios too, but I am not completely sure on that.

Your best bet might be uploading it to youtube and then linking the video here. I would carefully inspect vacuum lines, including the one going to the brake booster.

That’s awesome! I was actually looking for the Muncie M21 on there the other day for some reason.

Probably transmission cooler lines

No need to care, though you could improve it with a brass punch and a hammer where the steepest part of the bend is.

My honest opinion is to use an LS and an auto from a 99-02 GM truck and trim that harness down. More power and likely better fuel economy than your 4.0 would ever do. If you like the 4.0, 91-95 HO would be a good option, 89-90 Renix would be a good option, and then the 87-88 Renix. I ranked them that way because a lot of people prefer the HOs, then the 89-90 Renix did not have the C101 connector under the hood and they had a better ECU that makes a little bit more power, and finally the 87-88 harness which has the C101 and the less desirable ECU.

Hmmmmm. I’ve seen similar braces that go from the front fender to the firewall on a CJ7.

Have any pics handy?

April 2026 - Crispy The 1989 Long Bed Dually Owned by @88mjsally Build Thread- Year/Model - Dually Swapped 1989 Pioneer Drivetrain- High mile 4.0/ 2wd auto aw4 currently but I have plans to swap to a 5.3 LM7/AX15/np321 hopefully later this year. Currently has a HP d30 from a 1996 Jeep Cherokee up front and a 1995 ford F-350 cab and chassis dually sterling 10.25 in the rear. Stock drive shaft from a 2wd 2.5 manual mj with a 1310/1350 ujoint. Cooling- Stock from a newer Cherokee with the open cooling system. 97+ electric fan wired with a relay to a switch so it can run all the time. Electrical/Ignition- Completely stock currently Suspension/Steering- Front lift is a 4.5” rough country short arm kit. IRO adjustable track bar, rough country extended brake lines, 1.5” pucks on top to level/ account for the bumper and winch weight. Stock steering for now with new tie rod ends. Rear is stock springs and shocks with Barnes 4wd perches welded to the 10.25 spring over. Interior- Mostly stock interior with XJ buckets and a console. Newer grey ACC carpet and floor mats. Currently set up as a non tilt column shift but will soon be a manual transmission with a tilt column. Has a full gauge cluster as well from a XJ Brakes- Stock rotors and brakes from a 96 xj up front with rough country extended lines. Rear has the stock drums from the 10.25 and stock lines which hooked up perfectly to the mj hard lines. Rear proportioning valve has been deleted and it has an xj valve under the hood. Booster and master are from a 96 XJ with the same year pedal swapped in so I didn’t have to grind the booster rod. Brake light switch is for a C10. Lighting- New cheapie marker and turn signal lights up front with LED bulbs. Amazon LED headlights that are probably knockoff Truck Lights with a relay harness. Fog lights are ROLS from a limited XJ with an aftermarket harness. The rear is stock taillights with LED bulbs installed. Dually fender marker lights are for a newer Chevy 3500 wired into the running light circuit. Exterior- Mostly stock other than the dually fenders and front bumper. Crappy single stage paint job that needs to be resprayed pretty bad. Dually fenders came out of Florida from a truck that was being parted out. Fuel filler door was deleted so I used a boat filler neck which turned out pretty nice. ARB Front bumper was on my 2001 XJ for a while but I thought it would fit this build better. Has a 12k badlands winch in it and a roller fairlead with a flip up license plate. Wheel & Tires- Metric 32” mud tires up front on stock JK wheels with rough country adapters. Rear is stock 16” 8 lug ford steel wheels painted black with 32” skinny mud tires Best MJ story- So far with this truck I just like seeing the looks when people realize that it’s a Comanche dually which most people have never seen before. I saw one a few years ago and have been wanting one ever since so decided to make this truck into one CC is Awesome! Why? Great resource for the community with lots of great knowledge and help