89 MJ

I would agree, concrete to set the posts.

The part that mounts the fender flare has been cut off. There looks to be a lot of other usable parts on that truck still though!

May 2026 - A Member Since (almost) The Beginning @COMJNUT's 91 Build Thread- Year/Model - 1991 Base Drivetrain- D30 front with the Posi-lok cable Stock 4.0L with 99' intake and power steering pump M.O.R.E motor mounts Ax-15 NP231 with the 4:1 Tera-low kit and slip yoke eliminator 98' ZJ D44HD rear Cooling- Napa 3 core copper radiator Stock thermostat, housing, waterpump Aftermarket aux fan with on demand switch in the dash Electrical/Ignition- Stock wiring 7-pin trailer plug Suspension/Steering- Tomken 6" front coils Tomken front upper and lower control arms 98' ZJ Drag link & tie rod Alcan rear springs with XJ shackles Interior- Bluetooth stereo Pioneer 6.5" front, 6x9" rear speakers XJ 2 door seats Tuffy CJ center console Cobra 29 LTD CB radio Brakes- Stock system, missing linkage to axle, chose to adapt a spring to the proportioning valve. Lighting- Rampage H4 MSR headlights Clear turn front turn signal lenses Stock rear taillights Stock dome lights Exterior- Rust is starting on a few of the body panels, will have to mitigate that soon. Trying to keep it dry as possible in the meantime. Wheel & Tires- Wrangler Moab wheels 265/75R16 (~32") Goodyear Wrangler MTR Misc- I have found that even though it was a base model with a radio delete, all of the wiring was still there for the more equipped models. Custom aluminum diamond-plate topper Best MJ story- I don't really have a best MJ story. Every time I take it out, I notice rubbernecking by a lot of the folks I pass by. It's been called a Hummer in a parade, a custom-built Cherokee at a show. I just enjoy every time I drive it. CC is Awesome! Why? It is a great website with ample amounts of information about our unique vehicles. It is very cool to see so many members on this forum from when it was so young. Congratulations Scott!

Because Eagle Lol! They’re excellent cars when they behave

Keeping it now? I know you were considering selling it.

Sounds like you found a good one. And an Eagle would be a great addition

I think we're on track for it to be Comanche, CJ, and Eagle club

What’s the plan for it? Get dialed in and drive it?

Yep, that’s a nice one. Looks pretty good in the pics, is the diamond plate hiding any sins though?

The color of the valve cover is excellent

How often do you use the truck? If it’s a truck that gets used often, take it somewhere to get it fixed. This thread was started 3 weeks ago and we haven’t even gotten to step one, pull the carpet.

Here's a video from the show. @Eagle_SX4's car is seen at 20:50 roughly. @eaglescout526's Little Red is shown at 27:15, Chunk is at 27:50, and Daeson himself and his Eagle are at 28:20.

LOL, it is better than most, if not every, daily driven WJ I've seen in WI. Being from IL explains the rust though.

I am shocked at how rusty this thing is. Being from WI, I was always told CO vehicles are pretty typically rust free. Is that not the case, was this Jeep not taken care prior to your ownership, or is the WJ just designed poorly so they rust?

Looks great! Much better than most digital dashes.

The motor isn't terribly valuable, though it is very neat being that it had an overhead cam. The front end is worth grabbing.

This thread walks you through it very well

Does it seem worthwhile to try to do it then? Especially if you’d need to buy the welder and the grinder. If you do want to do this. Practice on some extra sheetmetal first. I think I’d recommend bringing it to a pro.

Looks like you can. Figured you’d appreciate the message

I think that nut will round off as soon as you try to turn it. I’d try to use an air hammer to split it and then peel the nut away from the stud.

That was an incredible trip, but I'm sure it feels good to be home and have it home too.

Seeing that, I would assume it is somehow out of adjustment. I wish there was an easy way that we could figure out the type of transmission you have.

Perfect! I think we should also try to figure out what transmission it has. The Chrysler transmissions (like the TF998 that I suspect you may have) do not run the pump in park, so the fluid level must be checked with the engine running and in neutral.

Your English is very good. When you say the kickdown wire, it is just a metal cable inside a plastic sleeve, correct? Any chance you can take some pictures of what you're working with?