89 MJ

Better window sticker pics

I wasn’t going to start a build thread for this, but I’ve already ordered some stuff for it and I also want a thread to document adventures. This is my brand new 2025 Jeep Wrangler Sport S. Yes, it’s a base model, but at the same time, it’s almost fully loaded as best as I can tell. The big features are the D44 with an LSD, heated seats and steering wheel, hard top, trailer hitch, aux switches, and garage door opener (window sticker pic included for other options). Sticker was $46k, but being a leftover 2025 when the 2027s are right around the corner, I got this 25 with 54 miles on it for only a few thousand more than a 2020 with 82k miles on it.

Smokey and the Bandit Smokey and the Bandit II Convoy The Great Escape Ford v Ferrari Cannonball Run

It is the ZF.

Vector is my top choice by far. Period correct, looks a little bit sporty, and has a nice combination of bright aluminum and black. To me, but of the steel options don’t stand out enough and the chrome seems out of place being that there isn’t much, if any, other chrome on the truck.

I remember you saying that a few weeks ago. And the auto really is excellent.

This 4cyl with the auto is every bit as quick or maybe even quicker than the 3.6 with the auto. I never drove one with a stick because they were roughly 3-4k more expensive.

It definitely will get some sort of stripe someday. Thank you! I would’ve preferred green, but I like black too. With the 27s hitting the lot soon, leftover 25s are getting pretty cheap.

I’m sure there will be more once I start a build thread for it

Thank you! It really has been a nice toy. A lot of advancements over a JK, but still very much a Jeep. Thank you! So far. About 200 of the 230 miles have had 4 people in it the whole time, so interior space has been very limited, but still a little more than the MJ.

Lol! Stripes and the right wheels and we’ll get it looking right

With graduation and my brother taking our shared Honda CRV with him to NC, I decided it was time for me to get a fairly modern vehicle to daily drive. Problem was, nothing was even remotely interesting to me. I ended up deciding I wanted a 2 door Wrangler JL. I had a heck of a time finding a used one for a reasonable price. I finally found a 2020 with a 3.6, auto, heated seats and steering wheel LSD and D44 rear, and towing package locally for a decent price. It had 82k miles, which seemed high, but was about average for the year. It wasn’t free from issues though. It had a couple of dings, a small crack in the windshield, and the windows of the soft top were all foggy from the sun. The biggest problem was the cams were replaced very recently (within 30 miles) and the dealership was not wanting to do more than their standard 30 day warranty unless I was willing to fork out another 5k for a 2.5 year 30k mile warranty. To me, it seemed that they did not want to stand behind their work. By the time I factored in the warranty, I was looking near the pricing of a brand new one (within a few thousand or so). At another dealer, I found a brand new one that was almost identical in terms of options, except it had a hard top, was black instead of dark grey, and it had the 2.0 Turbo. It was also a brand new leftover 2025. For the pricing difference, I almost had to go with the brand new one. So yeah, I bought a brand new 2025 JL Sport S (but very well loaded in terms of options). I never thought I would’ve bought a brand new vehicle ever, but here we are. And I have to say, I have enjoyed every minute of the 230 miles I’ve put on it so far. It handles well, rides well, and is properly quick. It’s also done very well on fuel mileage, considering I have been driving it pretty hard. Now for everyone’s favorite part, pictures At the dealer Heading up Mt Lemmon near Tucson, AZ

How do ALL of the battery cable connections look? At the battery, at the starter, and at the end of the ground. This does not seem like an alternator issue at all. It looks at the battery cables, then possibly the starter.

The next show up that way that I am considering going to is the 2028 AMC Homecoming show in Kenosha

I really like that pedal idea. I know @Gjeep has gone from pedal to handbrake in at least one of his MJs. Maybe he'd be able to shed some light on going the opposite way too? Who knows, you might be as lucky as being able to swap in the front MJ parking brake cable.

I'd do it as proof of concept if nothing else. Take the free seat, get it mounted and all of the kinks worked out, then start watching for a bench with headrests (90-92 had headrests). You will need to use XJ seat brackets on the floor. The other thing you're giving up, in my opinion, is a ton of comfort up front. I can't remember if your MJ has a bench or buckets, but in case it has buckets, I think it is worth noting that being 3 wide in an MJ is not exactly my definition of fun.

Now you're making me feel old...

Wow, I can't believe its been 5 years already. I still remember you making the original post.

I think you’re going to have to create a thread on this and tell us more

Well now that you've turned your MJ into more of a street truck, it wouldn't be such a bad thing to have a truck you can play with in the dirt or drive in the winter if needed. You kept all of your suspension parts, right? That chrome front end would look good on the Chief

I think you're on the right track. The starter side of the battery cable would be the first thing I would check.

That will be the tricky part. It will be slow going, but worth doing, in my opinion.

Based on what I'm seeing, that rust that the doors have is from the outside. The paint cracked from shrinking most likely or the seam sealer cracked (I can't remember if the factory used seam sealer there or not) and it let moisture in. That rust does not look like it originated from inside the door from moisture getting in there. In any case, what you'll have to do its undo the fold where the outer skin wraps around the inner skin. This will give you wiggle room by separating the inner and outer skins. Then you will be able to evaluate further. If you do this, make sure not to fold one little section all the way over. Slowly work it bit by bit in the opposite way that the factory would have done it. This is exactly what was done on my MJ's doors and tailgate. 7 years later being a daily driver in the rain and dry in fairly humid WI. Rarely does it spend the night inside during these months. The truck is parked for the winters, but it is not climate controlled. There are no signs of rust or swelling. My Dad, who restores cars for a living does this and has never had a problem on any of his customer cars. He recently saw his old 70 GTO that he restored in high school (car was painted in 91) and it was still completely fine. This is the right way to fix it. I would agree that those doors are likely the best ones that you will be able to find around you easily. I will also say that you will be time ahead to drive farther south and find nicer doors as opposed to cutting the bottom off of those doors. You'd probably have the better part of a day in each door for cutting the bottom off, making the patch fit right, and then rewelding it with minimal warping (and I say minimal because on a panel as thin and flat as MJ/XJ doors, it'll be hard to keep them from warping, especially if you're welding in one of the larger flat spots).

That is a heck of a lot cheaper than you could restore one for. It is a bummer that they do not have titles, but if a guy had a really rusty Jeep with a good engine, transmission, and axles, this would be the way to go. I also like the idea of putting a 2.5L in one.