89 MJ

New daily driver or what's the plan for it? Looks fairly solid, from what I can see. The fenders are normally gone on my side of the lake.

Renix can be tricky at times, but when they're sorted, they are fantastic. These Renix engine monitors (standard model here: https://nickintimedesign.com/product/renix-engine-monitor-ii/ or clock panel replacement version here: https://nickintimedesign.com/product/rem-clock-panel-v4/) give a readout of what your Renix system is doing in real time. It's almost like an OBDII scanner for newer vehicles, if you are familiar with those. Otherwise, feel free to drop your questions in the Modifications and Repairs subforum and people will be along to help out.

I would head over to @cruiser54's website, linked here: http://cruiser54.com/ and perform tips 8 and 11 right away. And then do all of the tips as time goes on.

It will come with time. Once you get the hang of it, I'm sure you will find its fairly simple to navigate.

Urban dictionary is much more fun Tacos or Pizza

Hello and welcome! To answer your questions: Yes! This site is still operational and is quite active. Your coffee colored one was owned by @Jeep Driver I do believe. Here is the build thread on it: The Renix 4.0 is just fine, just maintain it and get a REM (Renix Engine Monitor) and you will be just fine.

I figured that was the case, I just saw it and figured it wouldn't hurt to post it.

Pool Swimming Pool or Hot Tub?

I don't know how far you'd be willing to travel for a solid body, but there is this one in Tucson. https://tucson.craigslist.org/bar/d/tucson-keep-cj5/7544153838.html

That panel bonding adhesive is good stuff! And there's nowhere for the moisture to get in. I'm with you on pinch welds and seam sealer. And it's so hard to find until its wrecked the panel. Butt welding > Lap welding in most situations.

Same here, but that's not why I am commenting. I just wanted to say that it makes me so happy that you paint everything before putting it back together to prevent rust in the future. You see a lot of people that don't do that (more so on Facebook than on here) and I love to see people doing the job the right way.

I’m with everyone else. Add them.

Here is another point with the LS. This truck is your overlander, yes? If you ever decided to take the truck cross-country and had an engine issue, you have OBDII. You don’t have that with Renix. You can also get dang near anything you need for an LS in an auto parts store. I haven’t had the same luck with my 4.0s. But the 4.0 will make more low end torque, which is good for off roading.

@Pete M may know. He also has an MJ trailer. You may have to get an assigned VIN for it, being that it is now a trailer.

You can get the stock LS engine computer tuned for about $300. That saves a lot of money too. The WK2 with a V8 is a more rev happy engine and has more gears in the transmission. Not exactly an apples-to-apples comparison.

I think it depends. If you don’t plan on having the truck forever, I think an LS will hurt the value long-term, so I’d do a stroker. If it’s a forever truck, LS swap that puppy and get more power and parts availability.

If it’s dry, I’d do a compression test.

I did not know that about these CJs. You may want to check out the Facebook page “BC Vintage Jeeps”. They are out of Delta, CO and sell lots of CJs and parts. And they deliver.

October 2022 @Comanche SS's Comanche Fun-Runner Build Thread- Year/Model - 1989 Jeep Comanche Sport 4x4 Manual, Came with a D30/D44 and AX15, bought it from the original owner in Whittier, CA...When I got home I found the original window sticker and every service record since the day he bought it...all from the same dealership in Whitter, CA. Drivetrain- Currently the truck has a Shelby supercharged 5.3 Liter LS based engine, behind that is a 1999+ 2WD 4L80E with some internal upgrades Cooling- 24''x19''x3'' Northern Aluminum Radiator, and a Derale Trans Cooler Electrical/Ignition- The chassis wiring is all stock and intact, the engine and trans are running off a Holley Terminator X-MAX Suspension/Steering- The front suspension is Equal length and centermounted I beams from Ford, the steering is double swingset equal length all custom made. Interior- All stock...Bench seat and all. Brakes- Front brakes are Ford 3/4 Ton discs and rotors, WJ master and booster, rear brakes stock for now (dana 44) Lighting- Amazon special LED lights all around Exterior- All Hanneman Fiberglass Fenders and bedsides, rattle can driveway paint job with Rustoleum Smoke gray Wheel & Tires- Pro Comp 15x8'' rims, 33'' General Grabber X3's Misc- Tons of Misc. on a build like this... Tons of fabrication and engineering into it too. Best MJ story- The build hasn't been on the road much in the last few years, but it does not fail to break necks and get the normal car guy walking up to it in parking lots scratching there heads. CC is Awesome! Why? A great community for the regular Comanche lovers, my build has progressed further from a Comanche than most, but when I have stock jeeps (of which I have a few others) this site is a great resource for information and troubleshooting. I also have met many great friends, families, and peers from this site. Congrats, @Comanche SS! I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of it in action.

Personally, I would get a complete body (hood, fenders, tub, grille) that are rust free and do a complete body swap. This way, the body will have patina so you can still use it and not worry about scratches or dents and it will all match. I think if you make it shiny, you won't want to drive it.

I’d say so. I turned down 15k for mine in the spring.

Verify the gauge is working first with a mechanical gauge. If the gauge is accurate and the truck doesn’t make any oil pressure, I would put an oil pump in it and run it.

I’ll bet they’ll be stamping full bedsides within a year.

I was just wondering about this build the other day. Thanks for the update!

I did a custom add-a-leaf (not a kit you can buy) in mine. It stiffened the ride up and made the truck feel more planted. I wouldn’t call the ride harsh at all.