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The86manche

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Everything posted by The86manche

  1. If i can get it, my main focus would primarily be the xj/mj community. But it is definitely a goal to figure this out!
  2. Moisture doesn't exactly help them but I'd argue not the big issue with them. The boards are loaded with resistors and capacitors and unfortunately over time they wear out/ dry up and will no longer hold/ control voltage. Which causes them to lose their function. So no, there's really no way to make them last forever. You can replace the capacitors though. Which is what I've been trying to do but I have to get more in depth with my testing to find where each weak link is in each board. I want to design a new board that either doesn't need capacitors anymore or is just.. New. instead of refurbished.
  3. Yeah but I have not given up on this! I've got a bunch of ideas and things I want to try or look into. But right now kind of on the back burner
  4. That's me but things have put it on the back burner for the time being. I need to rig up a live test harness so I can probe and see what's getting power or not through them.
  5. Let me know if you want it, someone else is asking about it.
  6. Paint thinner, acetone. Not airplane stripper. That will take everything off. It looks like a rattlecan paint which is not resistant to rough chemicals.
  7. Because it's not in perfect shape I was asking $60.
  8. I happen to have a 3/4 cluster from an 85 cherokee that should work. It's in decent shape I'd sell.
  9. I was told oriellies has a full aluminum radiator
  10. Daaannng... everyone okay? What happened? The truck still looks fixable! That poor 21 slot grille though.
  11. I'm not 100% on the year honestly. I know it had a 4.0 so I don't think it was an 86. The vin tag was even kind of hard to read. Owned by dead jeep in Rhode island. Soon to be crushed. I grabbed parts off it for free before it gets squished! She was rough. Fire at one point. Rusty in places. But the metal that i needed was perfect! AND also had a d44 axle under it i scored for FREE. I think it's even a posi.
  12. I have not as i do not live out in California but I just wanted to give you a heads up about the 2000-01 xj 4.0s. The heads have weak castings and tend to crack between cylinders 3 and 4 right below the oil cap.
  13. I was going to ask about header panel parts until I read it was already going to be used. Also I agree sad to see it pulled apart
  14. Those are aftermarket? They look like fiero valve covers to me. I have a set of real fiero valve covers I'd sell if you'd like. They do require specific bolts and unfortunately I lost them though. They have a collard washer on them.
  15. If you cracked the valve cover you may have over torqued or they were the wrong bolts. That is quite unfortunate hopefully you still can use it
  16. Key parts sells the full length floor pans for our trucks. Not firewall metal though. But easy enough to recreate. Or get from a cherokee because it's the same up until 96 I believe
  17. Sure enough my spare engine has one. I'll pull if off and you can just pay shipping
  18. I think the orange piece is a sort of vaccum switch. I may have one in can send you if you really want to replace it
  19. I see 4 good relatively clean trucks that could be saved and though they are missing quite a bit what they share with the cherokees would make it easy to get back on the road
  20. As I pinch pennies for some more sheet metal I figured I'd do some more work elsewhere. I went back to the d44 to do more work! Center chunk removed! It's an absolute mess! Spider gears are chewed, the pin is held in by hopes and dreams, the amount of glitter and chunks is astounding. Seals are shot too. It was just a list of discoveries that I didn't love. I also found out one side of the axle had new bearings installed.. and I could pull the race out by hand.. so someone may have spun a bearing? And I have to deal with that. But I'm going to make it work! In the meantime I scuffed and coated the whole axle in flat black rustoleum. That turned out nice at least! Next step is to take the pinion gear out, remove the rest of the races and pressure wash the chunks and glitter out of it so I can put it back together and put it under the truck.
  21. It was tough, still a lot of texture on that wheel so scrubbing the grime out of it was painstaking, but the end result sure was satisfying
  22. I ma aged to grab the wheel and for $20! Cleaned up so nice too!
  23. I should have one. But also key parts makes new housings and lenses too
  24. There should be two almost L shaped brackets one on each side of the axle by the coil springs with a stud going through the side. The link should secure to that and then to the sway bar
  25. When I removed mine I did almost exactly what you did but I also applied a little heat on the top side. I used two nuts and was able to remove all of mine
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