dvitha

If you were 4.10 you would gain a bit, because you would be closer to original factory specs on ratio, for that tire size. Now that a side, did not see if on your info if you done a tune up (plugs, wires, cap rotor). Just wanted to say that. The return line are notorious for leaking, because it gets dried out. When checking for leak let every get nice and hot. The rubber fuel return line becomes more flexible when hot engine bay temps.

Wish I seen this one earlier, yep Cruiser has it right. about a 5 minute fix. Take shift tower off and than align the 3 forks. The tip of the shifter is wearing. If you have a welder add a little meat on the end of the shifter and grind it back to shape as it should be.

If you bled it like above said. no pumping, but slow push while you open the bleeder , and once to floor hold and shut bleeder. You can also use a vacuum gun if you have no one to push and hold for you. if above is done, I bet you have a small leak. Either on the slave to line connector or even on your master. When I replace a slave I replace the line and the master clutch. A small crack in your hose may not be able to be seen when cool and under the truck. However with heat from driving and use the fluid expands and the rubber flexes more so. At that point can let in a small amount of air. Seen it happen more than once here in the shop.

your work would be cut out for you. the input shaft is different length as you know everything else in the ba10/5 is the same. The amount of effort you need to do this, would be about the same as just rebuilding what you got. Now above state put in ax-15. I have a stack of ba10/5's, not for sale. I have used 2 of them to rebuild a ba10/5 and it still in service 20 years later. The soft metal is the week point in the ba10/5.

The alignment is to make sure it spins right without crushing gear (not moving) or not being in contact (not moving). If you changed tire sizes or gears you would change the whole gear. normally if it bouncing around a good lube in the cable, meaning it is drying out and getting resistance.

Bolt Fit is not the problem. will your hydraulic clutch line screw in to the new one is the question. Not knowing the shape of your hydraulic clutch line. The factory one has a u shape turn at the end to fit in the top side of the master. If not you can always get the right one that fits.

Check the wiring on the O2 relay. The Relay may be good, but with bad connection because of the dried electrical grease as well as degrading wire near crimp points on relay plug to be a cause. Your o2 sensor is not heating.

We at the shop use the tail gate all the time. Have use it a working bench as well as extra space when loading items longer than 7 feet. I have had 2 gold wings rear tires sit on the gate for a 600 mile trip. I would never worry about hinges. The gate it self is the weak point. If you need the extra length you can always get a piece of 3/4 - 8 x 3.5 ply wood if worried about the gate it's self. Some people remove them, which works great for loading and not tall enough to step directly on to tail gate. As above said about 55 gallon drum, I have had them sit on the gate with no problem ( not that I would drive with them in that location). Drum weights 20 lbs. and 55 gallons of oil is 360 lbs. 7.2 pounds per gallon is oil. So 380 and no bends after all these years delivering and picking up parts. like anything, heavier to the front and lighter to the back when hauling. So I think you have all sides in the info here, from be very conservative take it off, to what people have used and not hurt it.

like above said, normal.

oil changes, fluid changes and keeping everything clean makes a big difference. here in our shop we go through the whole truck at least every other month, to makes sure it best condition. Even the BA10-5's last a very long time if you makes to take care of them.

Since it is just going over it, and part of weight is sitting during ride, I think your be fine. I have put two 1500 gold wings at the same time side by side, and had no issues.

So from the pictures to me and the duck tape he has covering the spline, looks like he has a slip yoke in the middle of the drive shaft. his picture is only at the back. So if that is the case. the drive shaft slip yoke came out, because it was too short when the rear end dropped all the way. So maybe PO wanting extra movement for the drive shaft forward and backwards. However over axle lift was done on to after the design of the drive shaft that exceeded the shaft length during extension. or the design was not done right not allowing for fully extension when rear axle dropped.

spindle on the pinion if some how it broke in half, which does not even seem possible !

Sounds like the pinion bolt had been loosened at some time. When we do the pinion bold after setting preload and on the crushed point in side, we use locker on the thread. I have had them come to the shop in bad condition like this before. I seen something like this before and they guy had just went from 3.55 to 4.10. He did not put the thread locker on, drive 500 miles and it came loose. I have seen ujoints get pulled apart broken after shafts, and things like that. However ever time that bolt came off, some one was in the diff changed things and did not button it up right.

your still going to rub when you do full turn. Drive before and after, you will notice it will drive much different. The jeeps I have that are 4.10 ratio we use 30x9.5r15. no rub and no lift needed. Wider and taller is when you notice things.

check your fuse box 1st thing. The manuals have the clutch master reservoir right above the fuse box. When they leak on it, it eats all kind of stuff up, causing weird things to happen. I have seen it eat up the fuse box, bad enough to replace the whole thing. It could be as simple as 10 amp fuse number #7 if I remember right is blown or not getting a good connection.

Here at the shop we like to rubber if possible. polyurethane is much stiffer but has longer life between changes. However I always recommend rubber bushings my self in the shop for anything driving on the road.

^ this dude wonder if he still has teeth. I seen his posts for a while, and I am surprised if he has any real teeth left with the stuff he spews.

you will also need WJ LCA's So those tires don't rub, when you turn or spacers in front. If your just going for look and just street it will be tight. However if you want to off-road just a bit, I say you going to need a bit more than that. If the tires are true 33 inch tall to keep the factory movement you want 4 inch min. However I would say a 6 would be best. Now if you go over 3 inch you need to look at the angle of your driveshaft, and look to correct it. is it 4x2 or 4x4? Also what is the diff gear ratio? Many things go in to just putting bigger tires on. if your 3.08 you turn it in to a straight up dog. also is it a 2.5 or 4.0? auto/manual? just a few question need to be asked to point you the right way. with 33's and a 4.0 a 4.10 diff or better is needed. Also your brakes will be over the limits on stock. going from a largest jeep mj stock tire of 28.3 inch to 33 inch requires more than just a lift.

That is about a 32 inch tire at 10 inch wide. I know 10.5's will rub when full turn locked on stock setup. here at the shop on our jeeps with the 4.10's we do 30/9.5r15s with no lifts . I know the 32s will fill the hell out of the stock wheel well with no lift

All our vehicles are pickup and delivery vehicles. 3 times a week we get parts from Austin area, and from OKC. We pickup from all over Texas daily parts. 20 k a year is easy done and had seen 35k a year. We rotate the trucks so that we can keep them going.

I have one 4.0 that has nearly 700k on it. never rebuilt and still pulls hard and get good mpg. so it all depends.

I have never ran conventional in any my cars ever. I have always used synthetic and since I opened my shop up in 1995 we only put synthetic in customer trucks, and in our company vehicles. You best bet is to run the temps rang you live in. 5w30 and 10w30 cover most of the US, but some real cold places way up north go with 0-30. Using 40 is good if you have a tired engine and things are not as close as they tolerances as oem. 40 and some times 50 are needed on very hot running engines that will make the viscosity thin by excess heat ( I mean really hot) Some sloppy engines like old vws required 20w50, but would say 10w50 in very cold areas. I like to use synthetic because it is cleaner and does not tear up the gaskets as bad. If you have a vehicle that has leaks synthetic can make leaks worse. The Tractors we service also run synthetic. We at the shop get 5 quart mobile 1 for 10 dollars a jug, at Walmart I seen them between 18 and 25 dollars for 5 quarts. Still not bad price since the oil is good from 5k to 15k. We like to change oil on the old vehicles at 6k, and go by the factory mileage on the newer which is normally 7500 on lots of vehicles these days. Like quality parts, put quality fluids in your vehicles they will last longer. If you put cheap parts you maintenance sooner then with better quality.

that is a rotor. goes under the cap in the distributor.

check that o2 relay and the plug for the relay. clean it and check for a nice tight fit. I have had that jeep renix grease from factor on the electric get so hard as rock is messes things up. That is why c101 cleaning and delete is necessary. I have seen just the movement of the vehicle cause connection issues in the jeep renix's. Also check that fuel pressure when cold and hot. A bad pump could pump great when cold and cut in and out after warm. Make sure you done all those cruiser tips.