dvitha

pull that valve cover and then check those lifters and push rods. While you are in there you can see how much residue oil has built up. by the way how is your oil pressure?

That sure is a way. I personally keep the old belt or belts just incase of a failure out of no where in a bad spot and can't get.

Yes I know the adjustment is at power steering pump. However if for some odd reason one can't remove the belt, which one I can't think of one off hand, you could pull the bolt on alternator or your compressor.

Well if you can't get it off either un bolt your alternator or your compressor.

^^^^ yep loosen those 1/2 bolts and it will pop lose.

go to junk yard and get a old throttle body for the renix, or find one online. Or you can just get a long spring, attach it to the arm and the fuel rail. In all my years I never had a renix spring fail on the throttle body. I have a stack of them and I checked non of them are bad. I would clean out your throttle body and check for deposits on the butterfly that is keeping it from returning.

They do have bed assist bars. That lock in place also some come with a key lock. Put the tote where you want it, and use the bar to hold it in place either near cab or where ever you need it. Cheap ones like this https://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-cargo-bar-96811.html or ones like this that can secure it even if small https://www.amazon.com/Heininger-4015-HitchMate-Stabilizer-Compact/dp/B000FOL08M

Those relays are in a area where lots of moister is. Cleaning the connectors and getting rid of the old grease on contacts is a sure way to solve many problems with idle. The relays normally last and just go's out, but don't lose volt thru put, however if a crack in the relay house happens, also small moister can get inside and cause corrosion, causing the above to happen. Cleaning and inspecting these relays should be a regular maintenance. Many people can go along time replacing parts and sensors still not finding a bad wire or connector to say the heater wire for o2 sensor.

I think at first is asking to trick the coolant sensor to thinking it is higher than it is. If you know your electric, you can in theory put a fuel resistors before the plug of the coolant sensor. This would allow fool the ecu a bit. However once you do hit 205 or above it would read super hot. All my jeep run 2 bottles of hyperlube super coolant with 70 water / 30 coolant mix in North Texas. During winter they run right at 180 or 82°C all the time with no e-fans blowing at all. During summer 90% of the time 1 fan comes on and runs 195 to 205. I have yet to see 210 even on days it is 105 or above. So if this just started a month ago, how it the condition of your coolant? nice and clean? You did not say if you had a thermostat or no. I would check to see if it is frozen open. This would cause it to run very cool. Also when the engine is running to rich this can cause a cooling effect. a bad or not working o2 heater will cause rich running. Also a bad temp sensor will cause rich running. A leaky injector or over pressure fuel line would cause running rich as well.

Here in Texas All Mj's are exempt (25 years and older vehicles). However you can get some inspectors who will look. Troopers if are trying to get something on you, will look and ticket. Since federal law requires you to have them, and all states have to meet federal. Easy way is to hollo out and re-bolt back on. Once they get old that is what we do.

I been rebuilding motor's from a to z for 32 years now. At lest 5000 done by my own hands, in my shop. I have decked engines, however never once it was because the block was warped. Every single time I did was at a customers request. Even the racer 3 cylinders that come in with a aluminum blocks, never seem to be warped, and they run high turbo charge levels. We all get the fact that it needs to be checked, which I agree. That can be done in 5 minutes with the right tools.

Well get you a ax15 with the np231 is first thing if you going to stay with the 4.0. Try and get eternal slave for it, much less hassle in the future. Front axle is most likely dana 30. Lots of option to bump up to a stroker on 4.0. slip yoke eliminator would be a very good option if your off-roading Tire size will decide what to rear gear the front and back too. The 3.07 is a dog on trails and only good on highway with 30 or less inch tires. 3.55 would be good all around however a 4.10 would really allow you to keep that power when your about 31 inch's. I like the bfg 31's with the 4.10. If your looking for 33 and up in size, 4.10 is minimum I think, but I would like to go deep for sure. We do diff re-gearing in the shop here, make sure you take it to some one good and takes time to do. Same if you do it your self. I think anyone over 32's should upgrade the brakes. put discs in the back and the upgrade master cylinder and brake booster .

decking is machining the surface of the block, where the heads meet the block, to have zero clearance with the piston at top dead center. In most cases if you were not blowing head gaskets it is not warranted. If you wanted to increase compression a easy way is to deck it. decking can bring your piston and valve very close together, so to much could cause issues. Here in the Shop we deck engines that want extra compression with a longer stroke mainly on v8 engines. Most people do this for dragging and race applications around here.

Ditto! ^ I did not think about that, since these old truck are exempt here, and we just hollow them out after 100k and put back on for view inspection.

Do the mod to valve cover so you don't get so much oil in to you air filter. I like to do a pcv and then no more oil on air filter.

have you had a tune up lately ? Most of the 2.5L with ax5 I have seen came with the 4.10. In 5th gear your at 2225 rpms in 4th your at 2612 rpms with those 235/75515s tire. On a flat road you should have no problems keeping up at 55 mph even with over sized tires. They do cost you mpg on the 2.5L It should be able to handle going up a hill at 55 mph with out to much trouble. I would check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pressure, air filter as a start. Robbie95 below was oem specs with your setup. As you know 2.5L needs to rev to make more HP, and your torque is pretty steady up to about 3k where it drops off quick. That jeep mj 2.5L came with 4 tire sizes these are rpms at 55 mph in 5th then 4th gear 26.5 inch 195/75r15 - 5th 2430 rpms - 4th 2860 rpms - Best for cruising speed and power slight less mpg 27.4 inch 225/70r15 - 5th 2350 rpms - 4th 2765 rpms Best mpg 27.7 inch 215/75r15 - 5th 2325 rpms - 4th 2740 rpms Best mpg 28.3 inch 225/75r15 - 5th 2276 rpms - 4th 2680 rpms - mpg is hit with any hills at 55 mph or above

I my self have never had a need to replace a fly wheel on my ba10 it is nearly 700K on it factory. My 84 with a T5 we changed the fly wheel when the starter chipped one of the teeth on it. Just make sure everything is clean as you can get. I scrub the flywheel so remove any rust if it happens. One thing I attack quick is rust. Jeeps once rusty seem to spread.

last time I used LUK for everything. On the BA10 and it been about 100k on it since. so about 5 years and still in good working order. I normally use LUK for customers on the BA10.

get on ebay and shop around. I pick up old stock of mopar all the time for cheap.

Sounds good!

I would replace master, slave and hose. I have had customers just want slave replaced and a few weeks to month later the hose bursts. Use high quality parts too, not just the cheapo stuff. BA-10/5 can last a really long time. It has a bad rap, because it is light duty, but seen well over 200k on these.

if you want to change it with out draining oil, get a shop vac and open up your fill cap, place vacuum on top of fill cap (someone will need to hold it there) Then you can change the plug and washer. You will not lose any oil.

I purchased 5 of these from Mac's http://macsradiatorshop.com/surge-overflow-tanks/replacment-jeep-radiator-fill-tanks-378.html . I paid 80 a piece, now they gone up in price to 109. Not had a problem with it at all. We make some oil coolers for mac so maybe I got a discount from them because of it, was a long time ago.

The jeeps I use for my shops, not had problems with the system at all. As long as we flush them out and keep coolant system clean. They are all single core systems. The only thing we have done is went to all electric fans. We run a/c in the trucks 9 month a year all day long when driving in our Hot Texas weather. After the plastic bottles leak or blow out, we put in the all aluminum bottles.

wow 3k. do 95% your self. rock auto is your friend for cheaper parts. Hoses either make them or take it to a hose maker. much cheaper and better to get new hoses Get a the box for the a/c swap that out first, while in there make sure your heater core is in good shape. you need FOUR SEASONS 38901 - Expansion Valve - you want new APDI/PRO 7014172 - Condenser - you can find ones in junk yard for cheap pressure check it ... xj 84 to 90's or mj 86 to 92 FOUR SEASONS 54614 - Evaporator Core you can get used as well, pressure check it FOUR SEASONS 57551 - Compressor with clutch. Best bet get reman way cheaper FOUR SEASONS 33216 - Filter Drier GPD 1711254 - A/C compressor Low Press Cut-out Switch goes on top of filter drier. now next your need the hoses. You can make them or get them made. You can get used ones, just pressure check them and use new O-rings. If the hoses don't have your need the high and low side Service Fittings. Dash control unit your need to shop, however you can do a toggle to turn the compressor on and then no need to replace it. I say go with 134a and not r12 after market. just because 134a is much cheaper and you can get even at Wal-Mart. Used parts are much cheaper, however in future you will have to replace, so if have the money replace all new. Freon is very corrosive and if it gets any sort of humidity is forms acid, and will eat rubber, even metal lines. Hvac you will need to search for however you can find cheap. here is one https://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Complete-Assembly-RHD-Severe-Duty-84-96-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-x-S-56022012AB-/351901351400?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 it is pricy for what I pay for however easy to find.