eaglescout526

And the most nerve-racking part of the install is done! The only things left to do in the rear is tie in the harness to the trailer harness, load leveling sensor and swap the shocks.

Yes. Bypass it. All it does from the factory is “quiet” the pump down for XJ owners as they claimed to hear the pump inside the Jeep. MJs don’t need it and it causes problems like what you’re having right now. If you plug the two wires together, you should have your fuel delivery again.

88 might have the fuel pump resistor on the drivers side by the air box. Bypass that and see if it changes anything. It’s a white bar with two of the same color wires plugged in.

NOS? Or refurbished? Either way I f-ing love how well this turned out. So damn glad I would snag the touch up paint that Chrysler would say to toss. Damn glad one of many I did matched damn well.

It is on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And of course a mock up with a spare turbine I need to take the paint off of Oh and theres a OEM accessory hitch on now that you can't see very well. Tomorrow I will make the holes for the license plate and lamp. Oooo now I can put my NOS license plate lamp block off plate on too! Now that the rear is mostly done minus the trailer harness that needs to be tied in, I can focus back to the front.

I updated this thread to show the latest match for the headlight bezels with the darker silver accent trim.

Good call!! I was gonna do a simple DIY thread if it’s own.

I feel like you could’ve gone as far as making a Monty python and the holy grail reference here.

The all high and mighty Pete.

Ive been plugging away at the bumper/hitch/spare tire carrier install. Its a pain because its three things at once haha but its nice as its all in one shot ordeal. Bumper is on as is all the hitch stuff, now its just to get the carrier pieces on. As I painted the bumper and waited for it to dry and cure I decided to address a couple things. One was the annoyance of the front header. All the screws were broken off. I remembered someones post about solving the issue once and for all and I did such today. Love the results! Drivers side is done too. Then I decided that if I am gonna go this far, I am gonna address the aging headlamp bezels. And I aim to keep the origianls....or at least what is still good. The drivers side is toast, its done, I broke it, it already had a piece missing but the pass side is still useable. So I recall the issue of finding the right paint color for the darker shade of grey for the bezels. Well I remembered I had a can of mopar touch up that was a bit dark and probably the right color and sure enough! It was a dead on match that I am happy with As you can see the condition of the drivers side is on the left and the pass is on the right. The drivers side got painted as a test for this color and on the right is still not painted but enough is left to check for a match. Belive it or not with that age, I see a perfect match! Now I need to find a drivers side bezel, I think I have one laying around. Here is the color code and part number of the paint:

3/4 isn’t bad. I'm not touching that last one. With a drill to make the holes and then a small dremel file to make the hole bigger to pull the screw out and make the nylon nut fit into the hole, I say thank you for the idea! Now chunk won’t have the front parts hanging on by a thread.

If you can, locate a Siemens CPS, they are an OEM manufacture for the CPS. They made them during the Chrysler era and probably during AMC's time too.

Yes. I even did a whole thread on the colors that match the absolute closest or exact to our interior. Even SEM interior paint does damn well on exterior pieces as well.

If I wasnt so damn good with parts, I would buy that that bumper is factory. That being said, anyone seen this bumper before?

Yes. It will fit just fine. It is the biggest you can go without trimming or lift. That being said, make sure your suspension is up to snuff otherwise it might run.

By far the best sending unit I have ever seen. Besides the NOS unit in LR haha. SU is original too! Tank is clean inside too obviously lol. The outside is much better on the bottom than the original tank but its not leaking which is a big plus to me. The tank did have a dent in it, I hammered it out and threw it all back together. Used the sending unit I put together to syphon the gas out of the old tank and into this one. This should go pretty smooth. Currently working on the bumper area now. Got its issue sorted and should have a spare tire carrier on soon.

Washer and dryer panels. Thicker than normal sheet metal and are already coated.

As always cactuscomanche got me once again! Got the gas tank from the 86 XJW with sending unit. Some rust on the bottom but looks mostly surface and is the same capacity. I will repair the original and put it back in one day or keep it out and put the original sending unit with it so both never get lost. Also got a rear OEM bumper. Needs a slight fixin but other than that it should suit me well vs the pushed in and dented bumper I had. This one is pushed in at the pass end cap but the spare tire carrier might rectify that.

86

Glad you guys were able to take some time to meet up too! Was a fun time chatting with you guys and getting the parts y’all needed. congrats!

Rust hole. I’ve known about the leak prior to cleaning the tank but it wasn’t bad enough for me to get a new tank then.

Aaaaaaand gas tank has a hole. I have know it to have one for a bit now but the hole got worse some how despite not cleaning up the bottom of the tank because of that issue. Now I’m going to locate a tank or try to repair.

Hoooooo got lots done this evening. Fuel filter and bracket, mounted. EFI sending unit, installed And my suspicion was correct about the gas tank, it is a 20 gallon And the plastic skid is AMC made, I expected such but it was neat to see the AMC flag Guess I don't have a pic but I started installing the NOS hitch set up, got most done. I still need a OEM bumper to do more. I also got the trailer plug installed and in a body hole that took me a bit to find. Due to the damage the drivers side rear lower(thankfully it is covered by the bumper end caps) made it a challenge to install the harness that has the body plug. Spent 15 min fighting that and straightening the hole to get it pushed in to stay in place. Also found out there was damn near a 1lb of dirt in the fender. don't ask me why or how as I don't know either but thats all out via the two body plugs. Next is to put the gas tank back in, get the hoses attached and then play with the trailer harness and piggy back off the tail lamp connector as that is how it was done by the factory if you were fortunate enough to have that harness. Easy for me to make as the pack con connectors are very serviceable.

Starting a new thread for the parts I have that are engine and exterior related. I am trying something new, I have some wires that I do not need that are complete and not cut up. Wires came from a 4.0L engine harness at C104 and C105 and C103. I can add more if there is an interest in just separate wires. All wires are $5 unless otherwise above the pic of the wire itself. Prices are listed and OBO Short bed plastic skid plate $70. EDIT!!, Strap has been removed from skid!! Chiltons Manuals. $20 Aftermarket Dorman HO thermostat housings. $25 each. Got them from AMC before the closed down. I can’t use them, i don't have an HO. 4.0L Coolant Bottle strap, 2 on hand. $10 Black Renix upper and lower metal grill trim. The upper portion is a bit bent and rusted but I couldn’t just let it sit and get crushed. $100 for the set. Exterior aftermarket plastic door handles. $10 ea. one passenger and two drivers. All are unused except for one driver was used to just get in and out of my truck when it was being painted. Drivers EGR Solenoid 8933002298 or 33002298, $20. 3 in stock Aftermarket Pass side hood hinge, new in package. $25 Drivers side factory bumper step pad $40 Pass side factory bumper step pad $40 J4006546-these are the clips that keep the power window and door lock switches in the bezel of the door handle. $3 a piece, I think I have 12 of them. NOS Knock sensor for the 4.0L Renix. I know it looks different than the original sensor but there is an instruction paper in the bag talking about the change and what needs to be done. $70 Sentinel headlamp/headlamp delay module, no screw, out of them, 8956000636. $20 NOS Passenger side folding 2-door XJ and MJ seat frame. $200, free shipping on this. Wiring section: Command-trac wire. C104-C100 Selec-trac wire. C104-C100 EGR, C217-C109. $7 cause it still has the connector. I will clean it. Sync supply wire. C104-C105. $2 Back up lamp switch. C104-C100 Temp sensor for cluster. C104-C100 Up shift lamp. C104-C100 Alt to cluster. C105-C100 Off road lamps First set, Not pictured but it is a set of two, complete, wiring is a bit butchered but all there. $100 Second set, Bosch lamps, era correct for the 90's XJs but will look just as correct on the MJ. No bulbs and they ground out via the housing. $200obo Fog lamp clip/mounts $10 Underhood lamp #1 $100. Works! Underhood lamp #2 $90. Bulb not included unless I can find it. Also works! Charcoal tilt column housing. $30 Needs some love but in great shape Brand new, never been used internal slave cylinder for 87-90 Renix 2.5L. I have no need for it, it came with a kit I bought to replace the clutch on Chunk. Comes with the pilot bearing. $30

Most of the lamps these days will fit in the holes of our bumpers.