eaglescout526

That’s the problem haha. I don’t remember where it went. I did put it back last night, when I shifted the main rail, it locked me out of shifting it back at all. Even when I moved the case so gravity would work against the pin it still locked the rail in place which also lead me to think I need grease or something in all these moving parts before it gets filled with fluid to make sure I have proper operation. I’d hate to put this case in and have shifting issues right away.

So I am getting the 229 rebuild going, I got a good chunk of the way last night. Today I decided to test the shifting, which is what made me open up, investigate and rebuild the t-case in the first place. And its improved but its still not shifting easily with hi-n-lo and 2wd-4wd is still being stubborn but it seems like it will shift fine with pressure on the mode fork. Now I removed the main shaft to test this as I wasnt getting much cooperation shifting with the shaft in. Is there anything I can do to? Grease maybe? Maybe I am missing something or I need to make sure all surfaces are smooth? I also have a part that I have no idea where it goes, but it could also not go with the t-case at all. I am open to suggestions as I have never rebuilt a t-case and a 229 is not the best case to start with hahaha but I enjoy a challenge. Its a somple case really, I think its because theres more levers and forks than a normal case and even the 242. here's the part: here's where I think it goes: But I tried to put it there, it worked until it locked the shift rod in place and had to take it apart to get it out. Does anyone recognize this part?

Got the first set of needle bearings on, tough to do, grease helped alot, had to apply more as some kept falling off. And now I am finished with the hardest part of this rebuild. I am hoping that it will shift through everything like it should. .

I thought I recognized that MJ. Didn’t know the guy sold it. Worked pretty damn hard to do the whole limited thing to it.

Yeah that’s AZ for you. As soon as an old Jeep lands, expect it to be picked.

I forgot about the Pima air and space. That is a really cool place. There’s supposed to be a plane grave yard somewhere around there but I don’t remember exactly where it is but you also can’t really visit it either.

I gave you a pointer, don’t go to Tucson, hahaha. I know only a few things of interest. Mt Lemmon. The top has a cabin like building for the snow sport people and they make a big fricken cookie. Really good. Paul McCartneys ranch is in Tucson if your a Beatles, Wings or fan of Paul McCartney. And this one is irrelevant but double V scout ranch is also down there. Oh the titan missile museum is about 20 miles or so south of Tucson.

Really? My MJ had a fey bumper on it twice and I didnt have to change out the mounting brackets at all. I am certain my MJ left with a factory bumper, got taken off and swapped for a fey or the dealer put on the MJ brackets and threw a fey bumper on.

This should work. Just cut to fit. As for the others, the bigger opening grommets are meant for 84-86 years both carbed and TBI. Mine is 88 and I think I remember yours being an 87 unless you have a weird one where AMC threw and 86 engine and TBI set up as a "use what we have left" deal. For the front elbow, if yours doesnt have the original I guess something could be set up using that elbow and a hose to connect the two. This is kinda why I tell people to grab 2.5L stuff when they see it. I only have one spare of each of these lines for myself. No one makes the vac lines for this engine. Done ranting.

This is what it looks like. The 4.0L if I recall has something really damn close and if it is, you’ll just need to modify the length and put about 2-2 1/2” of hose on the end to connect to the base of the TB.

Which tube? Front one to the air box or the rear to the throttle body base? Either way no one is making new ones.

Always grab the whole thing if you can lol.

Hoard 1-2 extras and sell the rest off. Renix stuff will almost always sell. Early 84-86 stuff will sell just as well if you are lucky enough to find such. Like in my 84-86 MJ/XJ oddities thread.

Yeah it’s literally a shield riveted on. The engine vacuum would pull air from there to assist with faster open to closed loop times.

Yup!

Other than hacking things up. Course the route I would go is get a couple molex connectors and the terminals and run the wires from the diag port where the tach signals are and run it into the cab. That way you won’t have to do any splicing and cutting and what not.

87-90 will drop in, you just have to adjust the tach which is easy so long you have something that will show your RPMs like a REM, MS1700 or a good old fashioned external tach.

One way to get the steering wheel closer if you’re a shorter person.

Weve have seen one of these cut in half and the only way I see them ever failing is if some gunk infested the valve and clogged it from doing its job.

Interesting. I’ve always seen a hole for the speaker and crank handle, granted this was on an NOS door card but still.

Does the back of the card not have a mark or indicator or a perforation for the hole? From what I have seen, most of the cards usually have markings of what holes are where on the back side.

That’s a really weird anti saving money thing for Chrysler to do after they bought AMC.

Most of the YJs I have seen have had the 4.2L and if I saw a 2.5L, it was a serp set up. So that’s interesting that Chrysler would’ve kept using the V-belts for the YJ when every XJ and MJ had serp for the 2.5L.

I can see the 4.2L having V-belts in the YJ but not so much the 2.5L either.

WTF?!