eaglescout526

One inside the cluster or on the column?

Got a write up on this? I’d love to fix mine in the future in the event it fails. I remember sending a couple off to another member. Not sure what happened to that member.

The stalk plugs into the wiper switch. I wouldn’t worry about it being tight like a new car as even if you swap out the switch, it still pivots on a rod that goes into the upper housing of the column.

If youre good with electronics, it could be fixed. Mostly capacitors and resistors on the back.

So it goes under the top trim of the header with these brackets. Pretty neat and clean actually.

Looks like one of us got to ya. But I replied to your PM.

I’m currently at work. Another admin should be able to look into your user account and approve of you. It’s a measure we have to take to keep spammers under control. We do apologize for the inconvenience.

I wonder if the connector and the sensor itself are dirty and creating resistance.

Does it go down before starting? Does it also move up during cranking but just gets stuck at 120? As for the ISA, I used to hear mine click but after all the cleaning and upgrades I’ve done to the wiring, I haven’t heard mine click in a lonnnnnng time. This isn’t a bad thing, this just means that that the ECU is able to get a better read on where the ISA is after shut down rather than just giving it power until it bleeds off from the ECU. I honestly do not remember the last time I heard mine click. I do hear it move though. It’s quiet since I’ve rebuilt the motor but I do hear it.

Very very interesting. Surprised you didn’t opt for an AMC logo.

CR Lawrence. It’s a company that used to make aftermarket 4 pane rear windows for our MJs. But looks like they made them for a few years, probably during the MJ run.

So at one point in time CR used the MJ gasket

Got one from G. Thanks for the help everyone!

Well there’s a couple things. There’s the whole turn signal switch assembly itself that could be broken or it could be something as simple as the arm that attaches to the stalk that moves the switch up or down to turn a signal on is not in alignment.

It was a good read. I would like to say it was bittersweet to read. It’s nice to see the SC getting recognition for being a one off, single dealer collaboration for the MJ and seeing CC getting a link to what we know about the SC. That’s the sweet. The bitter for me is how the article is focused on one owner. Not to say you, @OffGridResearch, don’t deserve the attention and recognition here for bringing the SC back to the automotive scene, but I feel other owners do deserve honorable mentions for keeping the SC alive, like a little blurb in the article and links to others showing them off in other outlets where our forum does not have said presence. All in all, a good read and to see the MJ once again driving into the spotlight.

Needs to be in working order, meaning vacuum can’t be escaping while braking. Doesn’t matter the shape so long it’s not terribly rusted. Yes I could get a new one or upgrade but I’m on a tight budget right now and a used one will suffice.

I would look into the plug for the ignition switch and see. Maybe that’s melted more and causing all sorts of issues. Can’t imagine it damaging an ECU. Just voltage through and through. But I definitely can see it melting that connector and causing no connectivity at a couple terminals.

Same spot as the football. Some have relocated it elsewhere. If your hoses aren’t long enough, chances are they have broken off.

I’ve been able to pull my filter out from the top. Looks like my Renix has more room than the HO. What im able to do is remove the filter, drop it down a little while holding on to it, let it fall straight up and down where you’re still holding on to it but the open end is looking at you and then you should be able to pull it up and out. The one thing that scares the hell out of me is coming in contact with the power wire from the starter. But otherwise that’s how I get my filter out. I’ve tried the bottom way and I seem to get it stuck between the rail and engine. But I suppose you could get it out that way as well. Don’t see what not.

Nothin. They’re just production codes that Chrysler uses for different options and equipment. I wouldn’t look to hard into this as Chrysler changed what codes refer to. Say the 2.5L is one code but Chrysler reused that code for their 2.4L. I wouldn’t sweat the translations.

What ever you do stay far the hell away from crown ball joints. The price is tempting but you literally get what you paid for. Garbage that lasts maybe a year.

Quarterly bumping

Still a cryin shame that a good truck was dumped.

I can see $28k for all original low miles, but this build caters to a niche market. Really niche. Also bugs me how lazy people are to do a cluster swap vs molesting the lower dash for some crappy oreilly gauges.

Something I noticed is the lack of fog lamps and the window trim between the window itself and the vent/stationary window is black.