eaglescout526

Made a new topic.

Early 87’s still had the front hood prop

It’s tough to say at the moment before heading into work. I know the buzzer is on a circuit with a fuse. I think dome lamp. And I also know that the door switch is attached with the key in section. If Ωhm doesn’t chime in before I, I’ll pull the electrical manual out.

Sounds similar to my issue. Very similar. But baffles me as on my MJ, it would go into closed loop, make driving really weird like almost kill the engine weird and then go into open loop and stay rich just to keep going. That’s my initial thought as well. Sucks but I guess I’ll be burning through what I have left faster.

It’s exactly what I’m thinking. What pisses me off about all this is the sensor is new, NOS but it’s barely seen any miles. Yup! Still been trying to figure out how to put a gauge on either but it’s been a bottom of the list thing.

As far as I can tell without trying to gather some adaptors and a gauge to put on the “rail”, it seems fine. I did have the issue of the fuel pump failing but reading the REM showed me the O2 switch slowly and then stop switching all together. I think at this point I’ve confirmed it to be the O2

Anyone had the O2 do funny things to drivability? I could be chasing nothing here but the REM shows me when in closed loop, it rarely switches to rich and more or less stays lean. Then it jumps into open loop and stays stuck on lean. Isnt Renix supposed to swap to rich when in open loop? Anyways I can basically restart my XJ, drive for a bit and then back to driving issues like I am running out of fuel. Anyone have anything similar? I will swap the O2 out but never seen this be an issue. I have seen it to where it warms up and just decides to not work at all but still do the rich lean swap like it should. But then it would go into open loop and be able to drive fine.

Sounds like a good plan!

Those arent special like the Renix CPS bolts are they?

Yes!! I’ve seen one MJ with those. They’re really cool!

Yup! Runs ok until you go to rev it. Then it’ll just want to die.

Haha Thanks! I also fixed my power locks....I had them working right before I put the interior together. My guess is the power seats being in circuit probably dragged down the voltage. Anywho! Locks work wickedly fast thanks to a step up converter and now the hatch solenoid now locks the hatch.

Top looks close! Middle looks silver, I’ll have to snap a pic of the one in the brochure Bottom one looks close.

Ok so @89 MJ and I bought some brochures and I dug out two NOS grills from my stash and we found three Jeep colors we have never seen. So theres on for 1984 XJ for the Wagoneer only called Nordic Green 1985 Wagoneer base only was Medium Green Metallic 1987-88 Had this Grenadine color for the limited Cherokee. We have never seen these colors. Has anyone else?

Scored these today: I also found one of those 4x4 of the year for 1988 XJ.

Needs to be 4.6V. Either between 4.62V or 4.65V at WOT. Under 2V is not right.

Some mighty fine looking pre show rigs!

Beam in! Got it last night, didn’t fix my issue which I think it’s the new gear box. What ever. But I got peace of mind on the front suspension and no more clicks and groans.

On the topic, something carter and I talk about regularly is recycling. Everyone preaches it and what not and yet people are dumping good vehicles.

How’s the contacts for the coil at the ICM? Those literally stopped my XJ dead in its tracks while driving one day.

Those are indeed fusible links. How come you are moving them to the battery? Something wrong with having them on the starter relay?

Uhhh that’s my engine. Haha. It would be the hurricane 6 now. The I4 is know as the ‘tiger shark’. The hell kind of name is that anyways.