eaglescout526

Lol if it’s at a dealer it’ll take me a bit to order from them. I will I’ll be working in the back until the guy I’m filling in for returns and then I’ll be back as if I never left.

Actually funny thing about that is my boss still honored my discount for parts which is nice. But now I’ll be able to get parts from other dealers easier now.

I will be returning to the dealership! So part look ups, VINs and such shall resume!

That other line that is hooked to nothing should be hooked to a vac ball on the inside of the bumper on the passenger side.

Wide ones were never used for 2.5s. As long as yours isn’t an 86 you can move up to the 4.0 radiator. I do happen to have one of those aluminum ones from when I changed my rad back to the factory rad.

Yeah I see that. I feel bad for both you and jdog having to do the build sheets for 86-88 when I did the dates.

Lol, I mustve been in one of those concentrated modes of mine and completely missed that. Hopefully when ill return ill goof around with some of the broken VINs and see if I can find the right ones.

I wonder if I caught that and didn't think to put the real VIN. Or was the build date correct for the XJ but not the MJ?

Yeah I have plans to do that before pulling the heads. On the bright side if she cranks long enough the oil pressure builds and turns off the light so that's a plus.

This car is going to test me. So far what I have is the engine cranks. Great! Put some spark plugs in and did another crank, sluggish, heads might need to be rebuilt...or cleaned. Doesn't sound like it holds compression very well but ill need to do a compression test but that sound of lost compression could've been the exhaust pipe that goes to the carb for the heater. Also the spark plug wires are garbage, need new ones but two, TWO cylinders fired. Aside from engine stuff, front head lights don't work, something wrong between switch and wire. Ignition switch took a crap and let the key get stuck. Was finally able to pull it out and reset it only to just take it completely apart and let it soak in some gunk remover. Removed the door latch assembly to clean that up so it will lock and actually open the door. My favorite upgrade will be the Jeep master cylinder and the proportioning valve for the brakes.

Sounds like my issues except I got it down to the internal slave being crap.

Pretty much.

Lol fair enough. But there’s always the few who are least enthused about their job.

Sounds like those dealer block heads are just going off of what dealerconnect says vs what the catalog will show when looking at a vehicle. The last eight should either show an 88 MJ or an 18 WK like the counter guys were saying. Shame you had to deal with them.

Old FEY bumper is finally broken down into many pieces for use. Goal is to use most of it to help armor up the OEM bumper Also got the mounting brackets made up for better support. Now to weld them in place.

Then how in the hell did I get the build date?

Even with the full VIN its wrong?

Change the second J to a T

That line you are looking for is probably now on top of the air box inside the cab under the dash. Chances are it dry rotted away.

Was not me but damn it didn't last long.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1996-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Comanche-MJ-Factory-Ramsey-Hidden-Winch-Assembly/164263812221?hash=item263ee2dc7d:g:HQUAAOSwIf1e9hzx This is tempting

don't worry I am. Right now I just have the old support out. I'm just in the process of cutting up the FEY bumper. Once that's cut up and out of the way is when the real fun begins.

I'm currently cutting up a FEY bumper to do just that.

Don't ya hate it when your fixing something and you end up breaking/damaging something in the process? Yeah I messed up the wire for my NOS turn signal/CC stalk(crunched while tightening the column holding nuts), so now I have a new one on the way along with what will hopefully be the right switch for the key in/w door open switch.

Under the hood will be a signal red wire that will have constant power. Youll need to modify the light to ground out to the hood and the power to go to the power wire.