eaglescout526

Went for a drive. Clocking issue is fixed....DW came back but more aggressively this time.

Dont, a fellow member once told me to use NOS parts for their intended purpose. Some exceptions can be granted, like Pete!

As do I Mike! This molding kit was a great addition.

An ideal upgrade and easy bolt in for 87-90 2.5Ls. Hell might be able to go up $100 just because it’s got everything to do the swap. If I had money and a way to get both of them to me I absolutely would. I want to see if the 207 housing is the same size as the 229.

Check the dump valve above the brake pedal, make sure that is good and sealed with the brake pedal in the neutral position. I literally test it by blowing into the dump valve. You want no air to get by, I can see it still letting some air pass when at those high of speeds and releasing it just a small amount.

tracking my findings here. 9/9/25 One nut found out of torque spec-pitman arm to linkage tie rod Found track bar bracket to frame bolts loose, loose enough to spin but not come undone thanks to years of oil and rust. Now torqued to spec. Found an outline of the bracket having possibly moved each and every time when I turned. Probably resulting in my steering clocking issue. 9/10 Found both ends of the track bar hard ware not torqued to spec 9/11 Everything within spec on the pass side. I think that bracket has been my problem for some time. This would make sense for both my clocking after turns and getting DW to trigger on the drivers side. Thinking about the 3 times it happened, the wobble and vibrations were felt more in the frame than the steering. I have yet to take a drive but will soon and will drive to the spots where I got DW to trigger. Never would I have ever thought about that bracket. Arent these typically stuck and rusted in place? Haha.

Without having a caliper, I unbolted the track bar at the axle side and moved the track bar while still tightened down for any movement that wasn’t the ball joint itself. I felt nothing nor was there any movement. I then put it back together, unbolted the bar at the frame side and inspected the hole with my eyes and didn’t see it looking wallowed out.

That’s a fear of mine. I know when I had the first death wobble a few months back that was the first thing I checked. Was still good. Now that I had it happen 2-3 more times, I fear it could be toast. Now this got me thinking…I’ll get back to this. Honestly I appreciate y’all’s help and input on this. Don’t think otherwise that I don’t. This is the only place on the internet where you can ask these kinds of questions and not be bombarded with more questions and scrutiny. I knew I opened a can of worms but I want thoughts and opinions.

Cant exactly do it while I’m at work but it’s on my list.

I never had death wobble until now…. The newest factor here is the light duty springs. I put them on to smooth out my MJ suspension not taking into fact that the caster would be off. The MJ sits lower than previously. I also had an alignment done with the standard duty springs still installed. Plus I’ve been pretty unhappy with the light duty springs since trying to find the cause of my steering clocking. So the springs are getting changed regardless. Now something I very much remember is when I had the light duty springs when I first got my MJ, there wasn’t a lot of shims in place. I remember changing my springs later on and remembered being suggested by the dodge dealer that I used to work at to add some shims in when I had an alignment done there many moons ago. I did that and everything was also fine with no issue. I will however make sure everything is good and tight. Knowing me I probably forgot to tighten down a control arm bolt while putting everything back together.

Mopar JK rubicon shocks. They have been on for a while now.

This one should still be fine. I’ll check it. These are fine. Course I suppose now the spacer could be broke. And the frame is in great shape. I frequently inspect that for sanity sake. No lift. Stock ride height. Bushings we’re recently inspected and or replaced while chasing my steering wheel issue. Im leaning that I have wayyy to much castor for the light duty springs. I’m swapping my springs as I’ve been less than pleased with my light duty. I only swapped those due to slight stiffness in suspension but that’s a better trade off than the light duty and quick bottoming out.

Bad ground would cause the cluster turn signals to illuminate but not the high beam which is odd. Do the cluster lights come on as well? This would lead me to think something is backfeeding the cluster to light those up. Unplug the cluster fuse and the instrument panel lamp fuse and see what happens there. What’s great is yours is an 86 so it has the good sockets still. Or at least it should. 84-86 and 91-96 AMC/Chrysler used the metal sockets that are better. AMC switched to ford sockets due to them being cheap in 87 and used them until 90 which you should be fine and shouldn’t have to worry about that. Im super curious on your C100. I know in 88 it uses metri-pack style terminals. 84-86 and possibly 87 used packard series 56 terminals.

Nice little shot at the cruise in with the molding kit on. Now to figure out my death wobble.

Thats a unique decal kit. Actually works well with that metallic garnet like color.

Well an engine management swap shouldn’t have done that unless power is getting to the cluster when it shouldn’t be. Unless you swapped out the entire engine bay harness, but if it’s an 88, the C100 shouldn’t plug into the 86 C100 due to the terminals being different. Anymore details on your 86? What engine was originally in it? when I did my engine management swap in my 84, I just simply cut out the old carb computer stuff and left the original wiring harness intact

There is a minimum. It’s 30mph. And the minimum is used for testing purposes to ensure cruise control and it’s components are operating in a basic manner. Like the module and the servo.

New, Corsa, highway terrain plus, 235/75/15.

I’m considering examining the toe while down there. I did get new tires after the alignment. Can that have any affect? The old tires weren’t wearing unevenly.

Huh. I didn’t know nor think such a limit was there. Though I do suppose that would be a clever way to curb speeding when the national limit used to be 55. If almost wonder ifs either a limitation of the servo or if there’s something wrong on the module.

That’s the one thing I forgot to ask the shop for. I remembered the next day that I should’ve asked them for the print out. I’d have no problem taking it back to them. But she steers pretty straight. But that doesn’t mean much.

Yes. Let’s beat the subject down some more….but I’m stumped on this one. Long story short, I had this issue crop up to where the steering wheel would stay clocked the direction I turned. This was with the new reman steering box. I swapped back to my professionally rebuilt steering gear(a seal failed, I replaced it)and it helped a little but oddly the issue remained despite the issue cropping up after the steering gear change. I went through and changed everything(even the 2wd beam!) to new minus control arms and bushings. They’re fine. I changed my coil springs back to my original light duty springs thinking the standard duty ones were too stiff, honestly probably a mistake im about to learn from. I also had an alignment done, the guys said my tie rods weren’t tight enough. they could be right. I didn’t have a torque ratchet to check. Still haven’t. Need to go get my ratchet. Im gonna change back to my standard duty springs. But I’m asking for the think tank of CC to help brain storm why new parts would be giving my DW. Would too tight of nuts on the tie rods cause this? My light duty springs?(after all, they were on when I didn’t have a front skid and AC parts, probably an additional 70lbs on the front) For what it’s worth, it seems entirely suspension related. As soon as I go over say a manhole cover or some bump from a bridge, it triggers. And I’m doing 40-50mph and it doesn’t stop until about 20mph. Thoughts?

I’ll keep you posted. I’ve got a line on two of them right now interestingly enough.

Glad you got it working! Nice to know that is also serviceable.

Have you checked the vac lines running from the firewall at the expansion and heater valves to the reservoir behind the bumper? That controls all vacuum to the vacuum motors.