eaglescout526

I mean if you beat me to it. It might be a week or so before I can buy one from them.

Well shoot if you do that I would be damned. But otherwise they said to me that I will get exactly what they have pictured. They have an offer button so I will probably hit them with an offer. I did get the idea to use the NOS one in the event I want tweeters for the stereo.

You know, I bet I could make one....

Curious, I wonder if it’s custom or an obscure aftermarket piece.

Yeah that’s really a weird thing. Have you tried checking the resistance in the ground wire? @Ωhm can we recommend a traditional bulb for diagnosing the issue? Or is using the LED just fine?

Goes to show that the 2.5L will run on damn near anything down the TB and run on damaged pistons. Love the little engine.

Did your door switches work properly prior to the conversion? If not I would suggest tossing them in some vinegar to clean any corrosion it might have on it.

Pete. Don’t you have an archer brothers parts catalog? It’s possible someone liked the grill and ordered it.

I mean you could always grab it regardless.

Ahhh good ole deadjeep. I’ll ask them about this.

No it’s a separate electrical manual. The FSM doesn’t have any electrical diagrams. The bad part about the old tachs is they don’t have potentiometers like the later ones which is probably why they have components on the board that fails. I sent a couple of mine to a member on here to take a gander at them and see where a pot can be added but haven’t heard anything from them yet.

86 Wiring diagram for the cluster. Tach is on the second half. Hopefully this comes across well. Tried to make it seamless.

Yeah....Unless you have knowledge about the circuit board on the back of the tach itself, it probably won't work. That being said mind posting some pics of the tach? In the mean time I will go find my 86 wiring manual and take a pic of the circuit.

Muriatic acid is a good way to more or less eat the rust away and then some. Since the rim doesnt look safe to use anymore, there isnt much to lose.

Updated.

Crap. Now I have a dilemma on my hands…. If I think of anything else I’ll try to post it asap before it leaves.

Perfect!! That confirms that the middle belt buckle is supposed to be all metal and the fronts are should have covers. Also does the lower dash bezel have the grills for the tweeter speakers or no?

I cleaned up your post a little bit for the PC viewing folks so it is pleasant on the eyes. Not your fault by any means though if your on the iphone or mobile. Looks like a fun build though. Shame the rear bumper is a bit tweaked. Oh well, alot of heat and a BFH will make it look new.

Yes it does. It should go to one of the roll over valves.

Racing MJ *X3 -SA Charcoal AGC APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DDJ 5SPD MANUAL TRANS EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK JFH TACHOMETER - MECH JGB Clock - Digital JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT WJM Wheels - 15 x 7.0 Chrome Build date 9/9/87 Body code TL61 Built by: FCA US LLC, ORION TWP MI

Holy. Fricken. Crap. This has to be the real thing! What gets me is how the inside door handles are mounted.

Yeah you will probably have to really pull. Also it’s possible something happened to the cable but also not. When I took mine out I found out that the cable from latch to latch had a lot of slack.

Sounds like it all needs to be lubed. To be fair it requires a lot to actually push to seat back when you’re pushing for kit just your side but the other side as well

Pull it. Make it a wall hanger. What year is that XJ? I need some parts. Oh that’s an MJ. Nevermind on he parts haha.

On the bright side, this NOS gem came in! Straight from Italia!