eaglescout526

If the servo can not hold vac then the diaphragm inside has probably deteriorated. But the servo should be able to hold a vac. So you will have to disconnect both lines, plug one and test it.

Ok so I see some washers in those adaptors. I think you’ll have to straight up just replace the whole adaptor if it is giving you issues.

Let me go look at a throttle body real quick.

Well if I recall, the internals of the servo should have a diaphragm and a solenoid that work together to pull the throttle wire. I still think there’s a vac issue somewhere either at the reservoir or a break in the line. I have some servos I suspect are good. I haven’t heard of one failing yet.

Wait, are you talking about the flare nuts, the fuel line itself or the adaptors the flare nuts screw into?

Check vac too. At the dump valve when the pedal isnt depressed, you want no leaks there of any kind. A simple blow into the hose that paired with the harness will work as a leak test. But the odds of two modules doing the same thing leads me to another issue that isnt the module.

It’s great to have. It’s basically a cross between the old MS-1700 Renix scan tool and the MT2500 from snap on with a Jeep Eagle cartridge. It’s helped me a few times read mine and a couple other Renix Jeeps for issues. Now it won’t give you a check engine or tell you the ECU is bad(unless it doesn’t power on the REM) but it will give you live data while your Jeep is running. Now Nick did include a faux check engine light but it’s for when sensor values are below or above the factory spec.

If I had to take an absolute guess. It should be the breather hose for the front axle. I don't know where it’s located as I ironically have an XJ in 4wd but I have seen the top pic under the hood before.

Well I’ll be damned.

Ok. Where are you not at then?

That’s fog. Cargo has pink wires going to the plug.

I’ve thought about it. I don’t know if I will or not as I don’t know if that’s how the columns came in 84 or if the PO swapped it. But I can not for the life of me seeing the PO going through the trouble to swap the column and steering wheel over for a tilt.

Sunday I got lots done it feels like. Got the cargo cover installed properly Yes I know its Nutmeg in color, I have a NOS honey one but with spare tire on the inside and two other tans but both are the same issue as the honey. But thats ok AZ sun will fade it a little haha. Buttoning this up means I can finally put the rear seat back together! I love this color combo of havin the honey and almond work together. Oh and the wife hopped in the back seat as the first passenger. Dork. Up next is a few different things. I had a creative block yesterday as I didnt know what I wanted to knock out. I am at the point where I am ready to do the Renix swap, install the automatic leveling system/air shocks, running boards I got from someone on here a little while ago, NOS mud flaps of the tire carrier. Renix-missing fuel lines and wire for fuel pump(got lines located and wire I can probably make) A.L.L.S(Automatic Load Leveling System) - Was missing air lines for the front shock kit, rear kit was complete. But both of these werent able to tie in as these kits are made for putting an air hose to them and adding air yourself. I figured out who makes these Delco shocks and its Monroe. They have shocks very, if not exactly the same as what I have, all the way to the ports on the shocks themselves. I found their air line kit, ordered a couple, hoses are plenty long enough to set up the system how I need to tie them to the compressor and even come with some tees to tie both sets together. This one is gonna be fun and my favorite to do. Running boards just need some TLC before I toss them on Mudflaps-Ill have to dig those out and put them on and I felt lazy to do that haha. Tire carrier-I lack the right bits as per the instructions. Oh I also got some NOS parts in today. Two of which are trailer harnesses. One is the harness that you need that has the relays and inline circuit breaker and the other connects to the relay harness that goes to the class one trailer plug. I think I have some NOS class I harnesses somewhere that will pair with these along with an NOS trailer hitch to install. So now I have to take off the rear panel of the drivers side and piggy back off a couple connectors for this harness to work. Granted I doubt I will ever tow with the XJ, but knowing I can will be nice.

I read that this morn. Good read.

I feel if this wasnt a drive for me, I would do this too. Course I drive from 59th ave to 91st street from time to time haha. Need to plan an AZ MJ meet up at the pavillions or something.

Woohoo no problem!

I may have one that isn’t in working order.

Clips to hold the switches are in. But the 12 I got look like SJ ones. They will hold the switch but might have to be modified to accept the connector.

Whatever will fit. I wish I remembered what size I used. Might’ve been M10 or 12.

Ive heard the 3.4L FI or better carb set up is the way to go for direct bolt in.

No problem! If all goes well, I can do that. I didn’t note anything related to the 2.8L on that page as those seem to get chucked faster than the 2.5L, so I left their oddities out. Plus if it’s a GM product, there’s a metric ton of parts for it out there.

AMC-All Makes Cars.

I am sure they are the same. I can't see AMC spending money to have a different sensor with different values when you can just have the gauge read the same as GM.

Guys. What about an S10? AMC bought the 2.8L from GM. I imagine the market is flooded with a cheap version of a gauge sensor for coolant and oil.

They’re the later “Blazer” made lamps. Before them is the ROLs and before is the Marchals. They’re worth a snag but new ones can be had if I recall.